Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
I have felt your pain! Last year I was in some very steep mountains with canyons that were so steep in the bottoms that they made a "V" shape and allowed no run out. I couldn't get out of the bottom of the canyon far enough to get to the top of the ridge on either side. I wore myself out trying to get out of there again and again.
The guys on the RX-1 turbos made it look easy. So here's me and this guy on an older 800 Mountin cat stuck in the bottom of this canyon.
I was only pulling about 9,500 RPM while climbing and I have a finger track (two strokes against me - no pun intended). Long story short, we finally made it out but I can assure you I don't intend to drop into that canyon again if at all possible.
I now have a Shockwave adjustable helix and can adjust my RPMs in a minute or less. I have also heard that if you aren't holding your RPM while climbing that you have too much weight in the heel. That may be true because I have a 3/4" and a 1/4" Allen head in the heels of my Heavy Hitters. If I can't reach my target RPM the first thing to go will be the 1/4" Allen in the heel.
I still have the finger track for now but the new 07 Skidoo Summit X track still may find it's way under my sled sometime this season.
I can't seem to see the picture of your sled again but can you let the limiter straps out a little more and add a touch more spring pressure to the front of your track?
I have found the front track shock to be the center of balance on my sled. The more pressure I add to the front track shock the better the sled transfers. I also loosen the rear track spring and equal amount to what I tightened the front one.
Good luck.
Frosty
The guys on the RX-1 turbos made it look easy. So here's me and this guy on an older 800 Mountin cat stuck in the bottom of this canyon.
I was only pulling about 9,500 RPM while climbing and I have a finger track (two strokes against me - no pun intended). Long story short, we finally made it out but I can assure you I don't intend to drop into that canyon again if at all possible.
I now have a Shockwave adjustable helix and can adjust my RPMs in a minute or less. I have also heard that if you aren't holding your RPM while climbing that you have too much weight in the heel. That may be true because I have a 3/4" and a 1/4" Allen head in the heels of my Heavy Hitters. If I can't reach my target RPM the first thing to go will be the 1/4" Allen in the heel.
I still have the finger track for now but the new 07 Skidoo Summit X track still may find it's way under my sled sometime this season.
I can't seem to see the picture of your sled again but can you let the limiter straps out a little more and add a touch more spring pressure to the front of your track?
I have found the front track shock to be the center of balance on my sled. The more pressure I add to the front track shock the better the sled transfers. I also loosen the rear track spring and equal amount to what I tightened the front one.
Good luck.
Frosty
ViperTurboPete
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I have zero mountain riding experience, but do ride in deep snow (except for this year...green Christmas).
Your sled sits waaay too high in the back. I liked the way mine looked being high in the back. I had the skid in the bottom holes to make it sit right up.
I tried Thrusted Vector's suspension mod which tucks the suspension higher into the tunnel and it felt like a different sled. It was much easier to throw around and handle in the snow. It sidehilled easier, carved easier and climbed better.
I did the same thing on my work Mountain Max 700.
Tucking in your Ekholm suspension somehow will make a difference. Your suspension looks really strange, but I am sure there is a way to do it.
When I find time (still haven't) to install my M7 skid, I will have it tucked in as well.
Your sled sits waaay too high in the back. I liked the way mine looked being high in the back. I had the skid in the bottom holes to make it sit right up.
I tried Thrusted Vector's suspension mod which tucks the suspension higher into the tunnel and it felt like a different sled. It was much easier to throw around and handle in the snow. It sidehilled easier, carved easier and climbed better.
I did the same thing on my work Mountain Max 700.
Tucking in your Ekholm suspension somehow will make a difference. Your suspension looks really strange, but I am sure there is a way to do it.
When I find time (still haven't) to install my M7 skid, I will have it tucked in as well.
BlgsRX-1mtn
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SoCoRX1 said:
By looking at you pictures again; it looks like you got the springs set for damn near max spring pre-load. It also looks like maybe the rails are slotted for the bottom bolts similar to the FRA slots on a stock '03 skid. If it is you have it slid all the way forward for max ride heaight.
If that is a slot near thos bottom shock bolts (hard to tell from your pictures) slide them to the far back of the slots. If not soften up your spring pre-load. If I were you; I'd lift the rear of the sled and back the pre-load adjustment collars all the way out until they're not touching the coli springs. Then I'd tighten them in 1/4" past just touching the coil springs.
There's no reason a light rider like you should have them set that stiff. If the shocks bottom out on you at this setting; find a shop that can re-valve the shocks for more compression dampening (resistance to fully compressing). Spring pressure should be used to adjust your sleds sag when measured at the rear bumper. I have the sag on my wife's RMK 900 set at 3 1/2" since she is lighter than me. On my RX-1 mtn I run 2" of sag.
To measure this pull up on the rear bumper and then let the sled settle back down on the track. Measure the distance from the bumper to the ground. Now sit on the sled with all gear on as if you're ready to ride. Bounce the sled a couple times and then remain still. Have some body measure the bumper height again and subtract from the ride height of the sled by itself.
Jim
SoCoRX1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Blgs sorry once again the old pic is too decieving. i love a soft ride and suspension flex so i put the springs on all the way soft after that pic. They are as soft as possible now. and i like it.
If i lift the back up, the bumper will go up 6" before the suspension lifts. When i sit on it, it compresses about 2" from its original position
If i lift the back up, the bumper will go up 6" before the suspension lifts. When i sit on it, it compresses about 2" from its original position
BlgsRX-1mtn
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SoCoRX1 said:
You and them old pictures
How about where the bolt goes through the bottom of the shocks. Is there a slot there like it appears? Or is it just a hole for the bolt and a slot slightly below and behind it?Edit; take an updated picture every once in a while
.Jim
Why not phone Larry, since he built the skid, and ask him on setup. Or try mountainaddiction since they use to sell ekholm, and now sell there own version.
tundra
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Well, you look sure that you can't do anything to make your sled better. Sell the sled and buy something that you will like. Nothing worst that to ride something that you dont like.
Boondock
Veteran
Who can't blame him for being down on his sled? We/he almost had to leave their sleds overnight because the sleds wouldn't come out with real good riders on them with other sleds climbing out that they are supposed to run near or with!!
RX-1's can be a great sled. Mine is pretty good and will be awesome once things get figured out with keeping the turbo hot which hopefully will solve the jetting problem with the hot air intake. I also have darn near if not all lightweight parts made for this thing.... (every piece in the front minus the simmons and Elka's shocks, rear end billet and ti, ti exhaust and turbo piping, tunnel, battery, seat, etc....).
Shaun I wouldn't get a big bore 900 if I was you. Could be trouble and you never know what you are getting. Plus will have to set some things up.
See what the cat dealer will give you for yours and go from there. Go to the Polaris dealer and see what they will give you. A 600 with a 155 would be an improvement IMO.
You guys can drill a new hole in your brothers skid. Just check the size and drill it. Try that and see what happens. It can't get much worse you know.
RX-1's can be a great sled. Mine is pretty good and will be awesome once things get figured out with keeping the turbo hot which hopefully will solve the jetting problem with the hot air intake. I also have darn near if not all lightweight parts made for this thing.... (every piece in the front minus the simmons and Elka's shocks, rear end billet and ti, ti exhaust and turbo piping, tunnel, battery, seat, etc....).
Shaun I wouldn't get a big bore 900 if I was you. Could be trouble and you never know what you are getting. Plus will have to set some things up.
See what the cat dealer will give you for yours and go from there. Go to the Polaris dealer and see what they will give you. A 600 with a 155 would be an improvement IMO.
You guys can drill a new hole in your brothers skid. Just check the size and drill it. Try that and see what happens. It can't get much worse you know.
SoCoRX1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
i will drill the M7 one out. Thats something i can do and we will get it moved up. i will adjust my suspension today and see if it changes at all.
If a Po came into my garage, it would be a Dragon or 900. Ill check into M8's today.
If a Po came into my garage, it would be a Dragon or 900. Ill check into M8's today.
BlgsRX-1mtn
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Shaun, I agree with Boondock on the advice against a BB kit on the 900 unless you can find a new hold over 900. If this sled hasn't been taken care of by the owner such as; all the updates along with the advice from Polaris to remove the primary and de-burr the shaft then torque to 96 ft lbs you could have some problems. Especially if the owner has ever blown a belt at high RPMs.
As for your search for a 166; I don't think you would need much more than a 151 or 159. Like I have posted before; my wife's 151 was equal with my 162 while climbing. The SC was the nail in the coffin to make sure she could never out climb me when she does get the experience and agression that comes with it.
My wife's sled has had 1800+ trouble free miles but, she is less agressive (I do ride it sometimes however and hammer it) and I keep on top of the drive belt to make sure it isn't going to explode. Also note my post in one of the Apex threads for a guy trying to decide on a Dragon or Apex mtn.
If you decide to get a Polaris go for the Dragon, and re-install the stock skid on the RX-1 before getting rid of it. You'll probably get more for the Ekholm selling it, rather than letting it go with the RX-1 which will probably get the close to same on trade. Then once you get to a higher level of agression, you can either turbo the Dragon (Boon Dockers and Brad Story are working on a Turbo for it) or jump to the latest and great high HP sled.
Jim
As for your search for a 166; I don't think you would need much more than a 151 or 159. Like I have posted before; my wife's 151 was equal with my 162 while climbing. The SC was the nail in the coffin to make sure she could never out climb me when she does get the experience and agression that comes with it.
My wife's sled has had 1800+ trouble free miles but, she is less agressive (I do ride it sometimes however and hammer it) and I keep on top of the drive belt to make sure it isn't going to explode. Also note my post in one of the Apex threads for a guy trying to decide on a Dragon or Apex mtn.
If you decide to get a Polaris go for the Dragon, and re-install the stock skid on the RX-1 before getting rid of it. You'll probably get more for the Ekholm selling it, rather than letting it go with the RX-1 which will probably get the close to same on trade. Then once you get to a higher level of agression, you can either turbo the Dragon (Boon Dockers and Brad Story are working on a Turbo for it) or jump to the latest and great high HP sled.
Jim
Setup Setup Setup....
Nothing sucks more then trenching and not getting anywhere!
I got stuck like that with my Polaris Storm (by myself)..and that feeling sucks! Thats when I sold my heavy storm that I had piles in and though it was set up to go anywhere for my sxr. Now I am back to a turbo'd rx1...just never learn.
Nothing sucks more then trenching and not getting anywhere!
I got stuck like that with my Polaris Storm (by myself)..and that feeling sucks! Thats when I sold my heavy storm that I had piles in and though it was set up to go anywhere for my sxr. Now I am back to a turbo'd rx1...just never learn.
doo_man
Expert
These sleds require a fair bit of work to make them really mountain friendly. I looked at skids hard when I made my first switch and Holz (or new M series skid) I think are still the best way to go if you want to climb reasonably easy. As well A20's are a proven non performer, I love my Maverick now and they seem to be easy to buy lots for sale? not sure why? I hope you get it set-up right it would be sad to see you riding another brand!
akvector
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
not sure where you guys are riding or what elevation. IMO getting a Po or a cat you will have to carry at least 5 gallons of gas on your but to go as far as the 4 strokes. I ride a Vector 151 and I can side hill in a bowl in cricles never coming off it is side. MY bars are not raised but are rolled forward as far as they will go. I say sell the Rx1 and get a vector and boost it. All the hp you will need and the fuel economy you will be looking for.
Vector about 640 wet est. min 170 hp boosted
M8 610 with the extra gas est. 140 hp
I believe the weight on the dragon is close.
I rode an apex I liked the fuel injection and the motor but I felt my vecor handled alot better and If I boost my sled I will only have as much change into it as an apex and I will still be lighter.
The thing I hate about riding with the other brands is that they always have to re fuel or we have to go home because they are out of gas!!!
Vector about 640 wet est. min 170 hp boosted
M8 610 with the extra gas est. 140 hp
I believe the weight on the dragon is close.
I rode an apex I liked the fuel injection and the motor but I felt my vecor handled alot better and If I boost my sled I will only have as much change into it as an apex and I will still be lighter.
The thing I hate about riding with the other brands is that they always have to re fuel or we have to go home because they are out of gas!!!
treewhacker
Expert
These sleds just dont run like some people seem to say they do. Outclimbing 800's and 1000's just aint happening.
That statement applies only to your sled because you don't know how to set it up or whatever. Don't put them all in the same class as yours. These guys are trying to explain to you how to make it work.....Listen to them, they know what they're talking about. I agree with them. It's plain to see what your sled is doing by the way it's set up. Fix the problem and you'll love it.
That statement applies only to your sled because you don't know how to set it up or whatever. Don't put them all in the same class as yours. These guys are trying to explain to you how to make it work.....Listen to them, they know what they're talking about. I agree with them. It's plain to see what your sled is doing by the way it's set up. Fix the problem and you'll love it.
SoCoRX1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Akvector, when i ride, nobody comes close to running out of gas, 2 or 4 stroke. Thats the last thing i would think about.
No, that doesnt only apply to my sled. You climb, no boost with a Ski Doo 1000 or an XRS. Id like to see it happen. It didnt climb NEAR a 900 RMK and they are supposedly getting marked easily by XRS's
No, that doesnt only apply to my sled. You climb, no boost with a Ski Doo 1000 or an XRS. Id like to see it happen. It didnt climb NEAR a 900 RMK and they are supposedly getting marked easily by XRS's
