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Drag & Flys

LeeKo

TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Joined
Apr 15, 2003
Messages
533
Location
Chicago
I was installing my dragon & flys on my XTX. Wow, what a spring(red)...there is no way I can install that thing myself. Is there a trick I should know?

I am worried about too high of an engagement with that spring. What are you guys engaging at with this setup?

thanks
 

I cringe installing long springs into primary clutches. However, they work very well with these HC weights.
 
I put the clutch on the floor, put the spring in and then lay the cover over it and then put my knee on the cover and slowly put weight on it making shure the center and exterior hole's lines up. Then just put the bolts in.
 
Go out and buy some threaded rod and a few bolts and big washers. Cut to size and you have an instant spring compressor (Turk has some pics on here somewere). I did this last week and I think it cost me $8 and I have enough rod left to make another one. Watch out for the bushing in the clutch cover, I messed one up putting the clutch togeather using the "Knee" method. I can't remember what I engage at but there is no more low end belt slip...just that is worth what I payed for the kit.
 
upei93 said:
Go out and buy some threaded rod and a few bolts and big washers. Cut to size and you have an instant spring compressor (Turk has some pics on here somewere). I did this last week and I think it cost me $8 and I have enough rod left to make another one. Watch out for the bushing in the clutch cover, I messed one up putting the clutch togeather using the "Knee" method. I can't remember what I engage at but there is no more low end belt slip...just that is worth what I payed for the kit.

Or yes, use the longer bolts..
 
Sorry to get off topic but can some please tell me if this kit is more drag race oriented of would I be fine trail riding with this...or should I be looking at an Ulmer set up ( his engages lower I believe )
 
Engagement can be anywhere from 6000 to 3800 rpm. It should be in the directions that you read over a few times plus the countless threads on the subject you read thru 1st ????
I have posted a few times if you or a friend don,t know how to clutch tune properly these weights ain,t for you.
 
Leeko I'm not saying you can't do it. I'm asking do you really want to do it? The drag n flies can be finicky and require I lot of trial and error. When someone like Turk gives out his setups that's a starting point. Your sled and his sled can, and probably will, be different. Once they are dialed in they are awesome, but the dialing definitely takes away from your riding time. Buy the way I use a big long carriage bolt with big washers to compress the clutch to install the spring. I wouldn't do it without some type of tool, if you slip you will get a boo-boo.
 
I don't think I agree with statment of these weights being "finicky". D/F provide much more tunning capability over competitors weights which may not neccessarily be very used friendly to avg. snowmobiler. It's setting them up in order to gain performance vs. competitors weights and/or clutch kits is when it becomes a difficult task!
 
Everything else I've read on here seemed to say this kit was pretty straight forward, that's why I bought it. I understand I am going to have to dial it in, but I didn't think I was going to have to spend a week in the back 40 with the local clutch guru making test runs. Which is it?
 


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