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Drag n fly test today

I agree with you on the theory of less force between weights vs. spring. but how does your setup perform in field testing vs. the white spring setup???
 

I have yet to radar the new setup vs old...to me I'd give up a bit for more drivability...I am not in search of a total drag setup..but in the short testing for hot trail/buddy race .....this is the road I'm staying on....it will require some more tweaking....but what a difference..
 
I too do not care for the white spring, to much coil bind and very in consistant for drag racing, I have had alot of luck with the EPI springs, If you like the long white spring.....try the orange EPI, it works!!!
 
whats the preload and total force on the orange epi>? in another post you mentioned running w-w-w ...yam. spring...?
 
sj said:
whats the preload and total force on the orange epi>? in another post you mentioned running w-w-w ...yam. spring...?
Click to expand...


Ya i tried using the stock yamie springs aswell but found they don't work as well. EPI springs also have the tightest tolerences in the industry. The orange spring is a 150/380
 
475 miles in 48 hrs (about 12 hours of actual ride time) the last few days and these things rock...still more tweaking needed....want to run them with less weight and spring yet..
 
Just tested mine today and out the hole I'm pushing 10500 to 10700 and 11000 to 11200 on top also blew my belt so new belt broken in easy still same numbers. I also noticed my secondary really hot after blowing the belt Conditions were hard hard packed with alot of icey roads but all in all 220 miles today Any suggestions ANd I already PM the clutching god Turk
 
what are the details of your sleds complete setup..like what is the woodys power up kit>?
and the stage 2>??


make sure your center to center, parallellism and offset are set to specs.
run the white secondary spring set at 3-3..
if this was all done and youre still at the above numbers..
 
I have Turks setup with stock pink spring at 70 The Woodys powerup kit is a silver sec spring which is gone a OD sheave which will soon be gone and 23T gear and 3 degree key. The other stuff has to deal with my Harley 144 picks with 96 down center and 48 on outside will soon be going up to 168 1.45s
 
you are mixing and matching setups..
the o.d. sheave requires a specific helix and spring for shift out..and will slip the belt and blow belts ..
remove the o.d. sheave and install a white secondary spring at 3-3...
 
I just started installing my Drag n Fly weights. I noticed there seems to be quite a bit more play between the weights and the sheave now than with the factory weights. In the kit there looks to be a bag of six shims to close this gap, however there is not enough room to get one of these guys in there between the weight and the nylon washer's. Should i try going to find a washer to shim this tight? Or is this play normal? I am leaving for Maine in a week and do not want any issues on the trail.
 
bm250r said:
I just started installing my Drag n Fly weights. I noticed there seems to be quite a bit more play between the weights and the sheave now than with the factory weights. In the kit there looks to be a bag of six shims to close this gap, however there is not enough room to get one of these guys in there between the weight and the nylon washer's. Should i try going to find a washer to shim this tight? Or is this play normal? I am leaving for Maine in a week and do not want any issues on the trail.
Click to expand...

Please take out the nylon washers used with the stock weights, use the 6 S.S. washer only.
Thanks
ptt
 
Tested again today but mostly totally different conditions with alot of loose snow but some hardpack. I added 1 washer to the shoulder and one to the overdrive. Out of the hole its about 10300 to 10500 and again 11000 to 11200 on top. I have removed the OD sheave and have the pink at 70. Will the loose conditions effect my rpms this much after adding the weight? Fairly new to clutching so I'm learning and help would be appreciated Thanks Mark
 
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