Snorover
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It would seem that it would be easier to split the break assembly to grease the bearing than to do all the procedures to remove the assembly to get to the bearing.
The only thing Iam not sure of is bleeding the system afterward?
Comments??
The only thing Iam not sure of is bleeding the system afterward?
Comments??
That’s true but sometimes bleeding can be difficult and whole caliper should come off anyway to see if bearing has spun on shaft.
Snorover
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Seams like you could tell by inspection if the bearing has spun on the shaft.
Just concerned that damage could be done to the chain case side by removing the break assembly and I don't have the equipment to take the skid out.
Just concerned that damage could be done to the chain case side by removing the break assembly and I don't have the equipment to take the skid out.
You can support the shaft with a piece of wood. No special equipment is really needed to take skid out. If you dont just loosen track all the way and maybe put something under the track to keep it from sagging. That would take tension off the driveshaft.Seams like you could tell by inspection if the bearing has spun on the shaft.
Just concerned that damage could be done to the chain case side by removing the break assembly and I don't have the equipment to take the skid out.
Snorover
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I HAVE REMOVED ALL THE BOLTS AND HAVE TRY'D TO PULL THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY ALL THE WAY OFF THE SHAFT AND CAN'T SO FAR.You can support the shaft with a piece of wood. No special equipment is really needed to take skid out. If you dont just loosen track all the way and maybe put something under the track to keep it from sagging. That would take tension off the driveshaft.
WHATS THE TRICK TO GET IT OFF THE SHAFT?? DOESNT APPEAR TO BE ENOUGH ROOM, ANOTHER 1/4" WOULD ROBABLY DO THE TRICK.
It can get stuck. Keep going in and out by hand till it goes. Once disc is most of way off it can be pulled out of caliper which gives you room to pull caliper off.I HAVE REMOVED ALL THE BOLTS AND HAVE TRY'D TO PULL THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY ALL THE WAY OFF THE SHAFT AND CAN'T SO FAR.
WHATS THE TRICK TO GET IT OFF THE SHAFT?? DOESNT APPEAR TO BE ENOUGH ROOM, ANOTHER 1/4" WOULD ROBABLY DO THE TRICK.
swampcat
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Pull the brake pads if you havnt already. Gives more wiggle room.
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Don't mean to hijack the post but how do you tell if the bearing is getting bad
Look for if it has spun on driveshaft,rust on insides,broken cage and if after cleaning it with WD40 it is not smooth when spun with finger it should be replaced. For me if I am around 8000mi even if all that is perfect I would replace the bearing.Don't mean to hijack the post but how do you tell if the bearing is getting bad
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Thanks for the reply cannondale. You sir are a wealth of information
Sevey
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If your struggling to pull the caliper assembly off the shaft that is a good sign its on there tight and may not be spinning.
MS
MS
Sevey
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Don't mean to hijack the post but how do you tell if the bearing is getting bad
You really need the caliper assembly off the shaft to turn the bearing and feel the shape its in.
Failing that, splitting the caliper, picking the seal and visually looking at the bearing will give you an idea whats going on with it.
IMO - these bearings give good life as long as you keep them greased and dont let them get dry.
MS
StinkyFingers
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You really need the caliper assembly off the shaft to turn the bearing and feel the shape its in.
Failing that, splitting the caliper, picking the seal and visually looking at the bearing will give you an idea whats going on with it.
IMO - these bearings give good life as long as you keep them greased and dont let them get dry.
MS
hey there, not to hijack, but my 16 XTX has just 3000 kms on it now. Replace all the bearings in the skid in January, but haven't touched the any drive bearings, think I'm good to leave it for another season? It's only been ridden on the trail and lightly used lol.
Sevey
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If you have treated the chaincase well - with seasonal oil changes it should be fine for some time. At least 10,ooo km
Try and catch the clutch side drive bearings by picking the seal and repacking them. If you let them go too long they’ll be dry. 3000 would be a good time to start repacking. I re pack the clutch side every year and the bearings seem to hold up well
Ms
Try and catch the clutch side drive bearings by picking the seal and repacking them. If you let them go too long they’ll be dry. 3000 would be a good time to start repacking. I re pack the clutch side every year and the bearings seem to hold up well
Ms
StinkyFingers
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If you have treated the chaincase well - with seasonal oil changes it should be fine for some time. At least 10,ooo km
Try and catch the clutch side drive bearings by picking the seal and repacking them. If you let them go too long they’ll be dry. 3000 would be a good time to start repacking. I re pack the clutch side every year and the bearings seem to hold up well
Ms
Thanks brother.
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