09nytro
TY 4 Stroke God
do you have to regrease the driveshaft bearing on clutch side . Not having a problem with just thought i would ask
xrrider
Pro
It would be a good idea, I did mine when I switched tracks, not much grease in there from the factory.
09nytro
TY 4 Stroke God
do i have to pull the bearing out all the way or can i do it in the sled . I got the suspen. out so it would be good to do it now if i have to pull the bearing
zeke66
Expert
I think you can carefully take the fiber cover off. As I recall, I used a old small allen wrench I ground to a point to get under the cover and pop it out.
09nytro
TY 4 Stroke God
I will try that ....Thanks
Mtnviper
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Over the years I have got'n into the habit of just replacing it every couple of years. Sometimes they have been rough while other times I probably could have ran the bearing for another season.
The bearing is usually $25-$30 and I consider it as cheap insurance. They are under a lot of load, I 've seen them fail and take out the chain take out the chaincase before.
They can replaced without pulling the skid, just back off the track tension all the way.
The bearing is usually $25-$30 and I consider it as cheap insurance. They are under a lot of load, I 've seen them fail and take out the chain take out the chaincase before.
They can replaced without pulling the skid, just back off the track tension all the way.

natedawgedog
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I was just looking into this very subject and I found a few places that sell all balls ball bearing kits and for less than $100 you could replace the bearings in your jackshaft and driveshaft. servicing them every year and changing them every other maybe 3 years is really cheap insurance to not have a failure like mtnviper discribes
09nytro
TY 4 Stroke God
I was just looking at those kits . Thats the way to go
LJ 452
TY 4 Stroke God
If you haven't serviced it in over a season, you may want to replace it. After one season they can be pretty rough, but I've also seen them look ok, so I guess it depends on where/how you ride. I would pull the seal out, if it's dry and rusty, don't attempt to save it, just replace it. I would get a decent brand like NTN, or SKF. Saving a fe bucks on a driveshaft bearing can result in several hundred dollars in repairs if it fails.
Nytro Nork
Extreme
LJ 452 said:If you haven't serviced it in over a season, you may want to replace it. After one season they can be pretty rough, but I've also seen them look ok, so I guess it depends on where/how you ride. I would pull the seal out, if it's dry and rusty, don't attempt to save it, just replace it. I would get a decent brand like NTN, or SKF. Saving a fe bucks on a driveshaft bearing can result in several hundred dollars in repairs if it fails.
I agree with LJ...Ive had absolutely no luck with the allballs kits and have lost all faith in them.. For a few extra bucks i would get a decent one or even OEM..
yox185
TY 4 Stroke Master
I've always used oem bearings in the drivetrain, and aftermarket "cheapos" in the skid. I figure if a skid bearing goes you can get home. If a drivetrain bearing goes you're getting pulled.
jp111
Pro
I agree with LJ...Ive had absolutely no luck with the allballs kits and have lost all faith in them.. For a few extra bucks i would get a decent one or even OEM..[/quote]
what kind of bad luck have you had with all balls racing bearings, I just got the kits to do both the driveshaft and jack shaft bearings.
what kind of bad luck have you had with all balls racing bearings, I just got the kits to do both the driveshaft and jack shaft bearings.
09nytro
TY 4 Stroke God
well i order the oem ones . I thought allballs where good But i guess not .Thanks for the input everyone 

kviper
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I have been regreasing them for years with no failure's. Very easy to do takes maybe a half hour after you do it once or twice. I do mine after the season Is over and once in mid season. Flush with break clean and blow out with air but don't blow full pressure straight through or you can blow the seal out on the back side. More than one flush may be needed to get clean. Buy a needle greaser and relube with synthetic grease. Don't over grease or it will just push it out the seal. The big thing is don't let it sit with water in it over summer, that is where rust get's started.
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