Apex2006
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I brought my sled home this past weekend and decided to re-grease the driveshaft and jackshaft bearing for the first time since it only has 3000 miles on it. I reviewed RockerDan's FAQ thread and noticed the cap to the driveshaft bearing appears a little different than mine? Is the rubber supposed to be removed? Rockerdans looks like all metal. Before I pry off with a dental tool can somebody clarify please?
Thanks!


Irv
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
That's what mine looked like when I did it.
Apex2006
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Did you remove with a dental tool inserting between the rubber and the metal edge?
Budweiser
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Or a small screwdriver works...
NY AttakGT
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Yes. That is the rubber bearing cover/seal. Be careful when removing not to poke a hole or distort it. I'd actually recommend using the small flat head screwdriver (like Budweiser says) versus the dental/pick tool. More likely to poke a hole with a pointed impment. I usually take the flat blade, get it started in one spot, then run the flat blade around the outer race, rather pry here, then pry there, etc.. Start trying to remove the seal on the outer edge.
Pull off the bearing seal, flush the old grease out of the bearing with brake kleen or similar aerosol solvent, then blow the bearing dry with compressed air. After all old cruddy grease removed, bearing is cleaned, bearing is blown out and dry, refill bearing with fresh grease using a needle injector, so you are sure to get some good grease on all sides of the bearing.
Pull off the bearing seal, flush the old grease out of the bearing with brake kleen or similar aerosol solvent, then blow the bearing dry with compressed air. After all old cruddy grease removed, bearing is cleaned, bearing is blown out and dry, refill bearing with fresh grease using a needle injector, so you are sure to get some good grease on all sides of the bearing.
Irv
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Apex2006 said:Did you remove with a dental tool inserting between the rubber and the metal edge?
Actually I used a very small standard screwdriver like Bud and NY, it seemed to work better than the pick(I tried it first)
Mine only had 2100 miles on it so I didn't do all that NY says to do, it actually didn't look bad in there so I just injected a bit of Amsoil waterproof grease and spread it around with my finger and put the cap back on.
Like what was said, take your time, you don't want to bend the seal any if you can help it.
ITHAPPENS
Expert
Why not take it out to clean and re-grease? For that matter @ 3000 miles just replace it for peace of mind and cheap insurance. I change mine every second season. In 2006 on my Apex's second ride, my buddies 2004 RX1 lost the Jackshaft bearing with about that mileage and had to tow 50 miles home. Sure broke in the apex quick. 200 miles later lost the Speedo bearing and ruined a great ride. Like I say cheap insurance!
Irv
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ITHAPPENS said:Why not take it out to clean and re-grease? For that matter @ 3000 miles just replace it for peace of mind and cheap insurance. I change mine every second season. In 2006 on my Apex's second ride, my buddies 2004 RX1 lost the Jackshaft bearing with about that mileage and had to tow 50 miles home. Sure broke in the apex quick. 200 miles later lost the Speedo bearing and ruined a great ride. Like I say cheap insurance!
I take it, it is not that tough of a job?
THKSNOW
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The driveshaft bearing is pretty easy, there is good instructions on here somewhere. I ran the original till about 7,000 cleaning and regrease both bearings once a year. Still on the original jackshft bearing (8,657 miles) because that one is a lot tougher to replace and I think less likely to fail. IMHO use WD40 to clean out the old grease, if there is any left in there it won't hurt anything compared to a "brake cleaner."


Mooseman
I'm not all knowing. Post your question in forum.
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I have seen the effects of brake cleaner on a grease seal. Warped the thin lip that rubs on the inner race, making it ineffective. WD40 is better for cleaning the bearing. If using compressed air, go easy as you don't want to blow out the inner seal.
Ak Yammy
Expert
I agree with the pull out and replace. Mine with only 2800 miles was filled with rust, nasty old grease and even some dirt. Easy to replace and $30.00 is a lot better than a tow home. 

attakred06
Pro
before every season just regrease it since it was new ,and again this fall ,it look and feel like new with only 21546 klm on it,so maintenance pays back
mr.pitstop
Expert
If these bearings are greased regularly they will last 10,000 miles easy. I take my seals off and regrease my bearings every 1000 miles and before storage. I never have any rust in there and there is usually some grease left after 1000 miles. If that is done. These will last a long time.. Ive changed them all on my rx-1 ( 5 bearings) and some were easier than others, the jack shaft bearings were such a pia I thought I did more damage than good changing it, so I keep the grease to em and they still look good..
Apex2006
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Guys, thanks for the quick response and advice. I just pulled the cover and this is what I found after 3000 miles. Do you think I should replace it, or simply clean and regrease. I have never been towed! Am I dropping the skid and shaft to get to it?


THKSNOW
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That one looks nasty, I say buy a new one. Takes about $30 & 20 minutes to change it.
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