Driveshaft removal help!!!

[Kkurz]

I'm putting a greasable bearing on the brake side of my driveshaft, both sides, and a new seal on the chaincase. I have it disassembled but I can't figure out how to get the bearing in the caliper to move on the shaft.
I've had the rotor off in the past but had to split the caliper to do that. It isn't binding on the rotor. What is the trick to getting the bearing to break free? It's hard to get a soft punch on the shaft.
I've actually considered drilling out.some of the bellypan rivets to be able to get at the end of the shaft better.
Any suggestions? Can I get the brake side out before removing the chaincase side bearing?

 

[cannondale27]

In and out many times by hand careful to not stick it. What happens is the bearing makes a burr from spinning on the shaft. If you stick it bad enough by forcing I have seen the need to cut everything off. Barn of Parts has a pattern for a puller which pulls straight. That helps also. Be prepared for your Driveshaft to be grooved out badly. Have it welded back to size and put the Barn of Parts Wedge in it. Dont bother buying new since its a Crapshoot if new is to correct size.

 

[Kkurz]

In and out many times by hand careful to not stick it. What happens is the bearing makes a burr from spinning on the shaft. If you stick it bad enough by forcing I have seen the need to cut everything off. Barn of Parts has a pattern for a puller which pulls straight. That helps also. Be prepared for your Driveshaft to be grooved out badly. Have it welded back to size and put the Barn of Parts Wedge in it. Dont bother buying new since its a Crapshoot if new is to correct size.

I soaked the back side of it with penetrating oil last night, and I'll give it a squirt again today. I was worried maybe it's been Loc-tited on. What about heat?

 

[cannondale27]

I soaked the back side of it with penetrating oil last night, and I'll give it a squirt again today. I was worried maybe it's been Loc-tited on. What about heat?

If you are original owner and you didn’t Loctite it it’s not Loctited it’s a burr from bearing chewing up the shaft.

 

[cannondale27]

Heat won’t help unless it was loctited.

 

[Kkurz]

If you are original owner and you didn’t Loctite it it’s not Loctited it’s a burr from bearing chewing up the shaft.

Unfortunately I'm not the original owner so it's history is a mystery. I contacted Travis and left a message about his puller. I wonder if it would be possible to get at the inner race with a rotary tool and going it out? The bearing gets replaced anyway.

 

[jonlafon1]

The 3 bolts holding the brake on the tunnel have been removed correct? I know its obvious but just asking.. I would split the brake(prepare for some brake fluid coming-out) corrosive stuff. If your not able to wiggle the caliper/bearing free from shaft then I would heat it up. Use a torch inside the shaft and work it around about where the bearing is seated on shaft. you may have to pry on each side with plastic wedge or pry with bar and rubber hose or something to not scratch tunnel up .. on back side in between tunnel and brake caliper. One on the left and one on the right sides of caliper. Just be patient applying force/pressure and try not to scratch the tunnel up to much.. If your replacing the shaft and bearing don't worry about applying to much heat. Because if its locked down with bearing mount or locker your going to need HEAT. The issue is trying to apply even force while pulling bearing/caliper off shaft otherwise it will bind.. Make sense?

 

[Kkurz]

Well, I got the bugger off. One of the reasons I wanted to pull the shaft was, that I bought a Grease-it kit from Rocztoyz and wanted to install the new greasable bearing.
It turns out the kit had a plate to be used to press the old bearing out and the new one in. I was able to use the plate on the end of the shaft and some longer bolts to pull the caliper off the journal.
I can't say enough about the quality of the kit, it's very well designed and simple.
The shaft appears to already have been built up with weld and machined. So I have that going for me!
Next up, figure out how to get the bearing back on the shaft. I might throw the shaft in the freezer the night before.

 

[Sevey]

If its that tight someone has done some work to it. Brand new shaft and bearing - just slide on - no pressing or driving required.

Not a bad idea to put in the freezer and use the press to put the new one on. In the future, make a puller that can be used to pull the half caliper off the shaft. I made one, from specs that were posted on this site a few years ago. Havent really had to use it since the SW has so much slop.
MS

 

[jonlafon1]

It turns out the kit had a plate to be used to press the old bearing out and the new one in. I was able to use the plate on the end of the shaft and some longer bolts to pull the caliper off the journal.

Why not use this to install bearing? Just make certain you do a little at a time on each bolt maybe criss cross/ so it goes on evenly.

 

[cannondale27]

Why not use this to install bearing? Just make certain you do a little at a time on each bolt maybe criss cross/ so it goes on evenly.

It’s best to install a bearing on shaft by only pushing on inner race. Could use puller and piece of pipe over shaft to do this nicely if heated bearing isn’t enough.

 

[YamaSpark]

I bought a Grease-it kit from Rocztoyz and wanted to install the new greasable bearing.

I only see Grease-it kits for Japanese Yamahas on Rocks website, does he have a new kit for Yama-Cats?

 

[RobX-1]

Yes, @Rockmeister has released a Greaser for the Procross chassis:

https://ty4stroke.com/threads/the-greaser.162052/page-2#post-1573178

 

[RobX-1]

 

[YamaSpark]

Yes, @Rockmeister has released a Greaser for the Procross chassis:

https://ty4stroke.com/threads/the-greaser.162052/page-2#post-1573178

Nice! Any pictures of what it look like installed on a Procross? Any reviews?

Thanks!