snowprophet1
Veteran
I just typed everything in great detail for the last half hour and it got erased as I tried to edit it, so I'll try to be as short and detailed as I can. 
Setup: 06 Apex GT w/this years CPR turbo kit and his controller (attitudes industries).
Problem: In the middle of a fuelling break, I started the engine to go, and the green light AND the blue light (blue indicates boost detected on the efi controller box) were both on. I just started the motor and it was idling, so I knew it had no boost. Ran rich and luckily didn't foul a plug. Shut it off for a minute. Both lights came back on after start up. A few minutes later, it seemed to be functioning properly (blue light only on under boost), for a few minutes. Then I noticed the blue light not coming on when the boost started to come on.
My wastegate control rod is set up so that instead of having 2psi while cruising, it ouly has .2 psi. I have a light come on for when my intercoller fan comes on at 4psi. I goosed it a quick second to see the light come on for the intercooler, but no blue light on the controller. I drove it carefully w/vaccum only and kept if out of boost until we stopped. I took apart the controller conections and blew them out in case they got wet or something. No change. I told my group to watch for me in case I stop. No boosting. After 10 minutes I noticed one slight hesitation, so I let of the gas and let it idle a few seconds. I carefully took back off and drove another minute or so, and then it has a slight hesitation again. I let off again, etc. Being extremely carefull, I drove some more up to my group which had now stopped for me. When I was still pulling up to them, it stalled. After a minute, I re-started it, and it moved a little and stalled again. I said I wasn't going any farter or taking any chances. So far I'd say motor was still good, but something electrical screwing w/me. I was a few minutes from a place I could get it w/a truck so I disconnected the controller and ran the efi as stock. I drove it at 4,600 rpms w/ no boost at all (not taking any chances) for the next couple minutes to where we were stopping. Started perfect, didn't miss a beat, no issues.
Finds: After loading it up on the truck (real late night) I knew I couldn't go to sleep, so I did a diagnostic test. All seems fine, except the TPS said 14 instead of a minimum of 15, and the high was 92 instead of a little higher. I also gave a saved diagnostic code of 81. My 06 has 07 bars run in parallel, which are working fine, so maybe it is just reading a different resistance on the grip warmers to draw attention to it. Control box boost line was not pinched or any holes or wear spots. All control box wires are in good shape w/no rubbing etc. My box is on the handlebars w/a snack size ziplock on it to keep any snow off it.
What ticks me off is I sent my AFR/BOOST gauge back for repair because the (really trick looking) screen was malfuntioning on the display. So...I would have loved to have been watching the AFR readings. My knock sensor functioned the same as always, nothing different detected. You could still hole a piston w/out the knock sensor sensing it, but I didn't have any abnormal engine frequencies while driving it tonight at least. I am extreeeemly anal when it comes to my toys, and I am mechanically inclined, so I am always listening to any different tones in the motor, etc. I feel the motor is mechanicly sound, and there is something electrical wrong.
Solutions?: This sled has never missed a beat until tonight, and I am extremely happy w/the performance. I had 3 or 4 more new people I could have raced tonight but couldn't! Winter sucked here this year as far as snow is concerned and w/this problem I may have had my last ride for the season 
.
Has anybody had any problem like this before, and was it the controller? THANKS for reading my long story and all/any tips. Thanks. Marc M.
Setup: 06 Apex GT w/this years CPR turbo kit and his controller (attitudes industries).
Problem: In the middle of a fuelling break, I started the engine to go, and the green light AND the blue light (blue indicates boost detected on the efi controller box) were both on. I just started the motor and it was idling, so I knew it had no boost. Ran rich and luckily didn't foul a plug. Shut it off for a minute. Both lights came back on after start up. A few minutes later, it seemed to be functioning properly (blue light only on under boost), for a few minutes. Then I noticed the blue light not coming on when the boost started to come on.
My wastegate control rod is set up so that instead of having 2psi while cruising, it ouly has .2 psi. I have a light come on for when my intercoller fan comes on at 4psi. I goosed it a quick second to see the light come on for the intercooler, but no blue light on the controller. I drove it carefully w/vaccum only and kept if out of boost until we stopped. I took apart the controller conections and blew them out in case they got wet or something. No change. I told my group to watch for me in case I stop. No boosting. After 10 minutes I noticed one slight hesitation, so I let of the gas and let it idle a few seconds. I carefully took back off and drove another minute or so, and then it has a slight hesitation again. I let off again, etc. Being extremely carefull, I drove some more up to my group which had now stopped for me. When I was still pulling up to them, it stalled. After a minute, I re-started it, and it moved a little and stalled again. I said I wasn't going any farter or taking any chances. So far I'd say motor was still good, but something electrical screwing w/me. I was a few minutes from a place I could get it w/a truck so I disconnected the controller and ran the efi as stock. I drove it at 4,600 rpms w/ no boost at all (not taking any chances) for the next couple minutes to where we were stopping. Started perfect, didn't miss a beat, no issues.
Finds: After loading it up on the truck (real late night) I knew I couldn't go to sleep, so I did a diagnostic test. All seems fine, except the TPS said 14 instead of a minimum of 15, and the high was 92 instead of a little higher. I also gave a saved diagnostic code of 81. My 06 has 07 bars run in parallel, which are working fine, so maybe it is just reading a different resistance on the grip warmers to draw attention to it. Control box boost line was not pinched or any holes or wear spots. All control box wires are in good shape w/no rubbing etc. My box is on the handlebars w/a snack size ziplock on it to keep any snow off it.
What ticks me off is I sent my AFR/BOOST gauge back for repair because the (really trick looking) screen was malfuntioning on the display. So...I would have loved to have been watching the AFR readings. My knock sensor functioned the same as always, nothing different detected. You could still hole a piston w/out the knock sensor sensing it, but I didn't have any abnormal engine frequencies while driving it tonight at least. I am extreeeemly anal when it comes to my toys, and I am mechanically inclined, so I am always listening to any different tones in the motor, etc. I feel the motor is mechanicly sound, and there is something electrical wrong.
Solutions?: This sled has never missed a beat until tonight, and I am extremely happy w/the performance. I had 3 or 4 more new people I could have raced tonight but couldn't!
Winter sucked here this year as far as snow is concerned and w/this problem I may have had my last ride for the season . Has anybody had any problem like this before, and was it the controller? THANKS for reading my long story and all/any tips. Thanks. Marc M.
snowprophet1
Veteran
Problem solved. I talked w/the maker of the box. He knows the problem is from moisture in the boost switch inside the box. My version only has a 2% failure rate, but last night it was my sled and today it was on his sled! He said it is covered under warranty. If I wanted to just bring it in the house to let it dry out, it would work to get me by if I wanted to keep riding, or just send it in for a new switch, so I'll just send it in. Nice guy. Great to deal with, and it sounds like he actually tests and uses what he sells/makes. I have a lot of respect for a guy like that. I have found (in the atv market) a few names that charge the big $ but don't even test their products/mods and rip off everyone off. It's nice to come across somebody who isn't just a salesman repeating what he's told or make up whatever you want to hear. I'm glad CPR used a guy like that for his supplier! Hats off! 
