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emergancy oil change

marpolsdofer

TY 4 Stroke Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2009
Messages
995
Location
swaledale, IA
I need to an emergency oil change. My dealer is closed for the rest of the week and I cant get normal Yamaha stuff or amsoil.

What are you guy running for oil filters and oil found at wal-mart or any automotive places?
Is there any difference between them in the oil and and micron filter size in the filter?
Also just wondering if any of you guys switched to full synthetic or still on semi?
 

k&n 147 i believe. not sure if fram or purolator has any.
yes, guys are running amsoil.
i just run arctic blue full synthetic. "fleet farm" brand i think.

i imagine if you find any 30w or 40w oil like the manual says, you should be good. (if it's for powersports, not sure if the car oil would be ok)
 
Could probably get away with Cat oil or doo's oil if you cant find any other oil in time.

what is the reason for the emergency? is a filter change required?
 
mobil 0w30 - i think if you go to napa they can cross the filter for you.
 
I've seen Castrol Syntec 0W30 at Walmart for less than $10/liter. You can skip the filter...read your manual on recommended filter change and be shocked at how long you can use your current one.
 
Grimm said:
I've seen Castrol Syntec 0W30 at Walmart for less than $10/liter. You can skip the filter...read your manual on recommended filter change and be shocked at how long you can use your current one.

That is what i was thinking, could skip the filter unless the reason to change the oil is because water got in there somehow or something like that.
 
Grimm said:
I've seen Castrol Syntec 0W30 at Walmart for less than $10/liter. You can skip the filter...read your manual on recommended filter change and be shocked at how long you can use your current one.

I am aware of the filter but I had my lower a-arm bolt break and it dented the filter and I noticed there was air been drawn in from a hole in the oil line.
 
I will never change my filter, because A,- My next post on here the next day will be, "I striped the plug, or i think i forgot the O-ring, or i think it's leaking, or the filter blew off and my motor is junk, OR B,-Yamaha told me not to!
If there's something in the filter of any size, you already have issues. These motors don't have a clutch like a bike or quad. That's my reasoning, and Yamahas from what my owners manuel and dealer tell me.
 
I changed mine from yamaha to Mobil 1 0W30 full synthetic, cost me $18 for 3 quarts @ Walmart (used like 2 1/4 of it).
 
I change the oil in my yz 450 every 2 hours but it has a clutch set in there, although the sled 500 motor has twice the moving parts than the 450 even though the motors are from the same design the 500 revs to 12000 rpm and that oil also has to supply a bunch of sprockets for the gear reduction. So changin the oil and filter once a year not a bad idea.
 
running a k&n147 for a filter and royal purple 5w30 for 3000miles.. but it never really gets below zero here mostly betwwen 10-20deg.. if you r running in below zero temps often i would run a 0w30 or 0w40.
 
pavey33 said:
hows everyone changing, taking sled apart or anyone learn faster way

Depends on if your are changing the filter also.

No filter:

Warm the engine, drain oil from tank and the drain plug under the engine. Fill with the amount specified in the owners manual. Run check oil level and add if needed. Be sure to check it with the dig stick just sitting on the oil tank not threaded in.

With a filter change its a big more work but very easy still:

Warm the engine, drain the oil. Remove the headlight and cover. remove the upper body panels and air filter covers. Remove the 3 rubber caps on the airbox.
With 3 Long allen key wrenches loosen the screws that secures the airbox to the sled.

Now use take am number the plugs/hoses so you remember where they all go and remove them. Now you will be able to see your filter.


Good luck!
 
The last time that I changed the filter, I took off the body panels and headlight, and then I let it warm up and took the drain bolts out to let the oil drip while I get to the filter. At least this way the oil is still warm when the oil is draining and the filter is pulled off, otherwise not really much of a point to warm up the sled when it takes so long to take everything else off.

Just thought that I'd put this out since people seem to be saying that they are warming up the sled first, and then stripping it down.
 


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