FAQ: How To - DriveShaft/JackShaft bearing"REGREASE" Step by step

[BigDogrx1]

I took my 32mm short socket and cut rachet end off and welded a 2" piece of steel in it to make deep enough, not pretty but works for long and short application s

 

[lvUP]

I took my 32mm short socket and cut rachet end off and welded a 2" piece of steel in it to make deep enough, not pretty but works for long and short application s

Thanks for the tip. I'm measuring 37 mm with a mic on it. Your idea is really good, I just need to find a socket that big. Auto store wasn't much help

 

[BigDogrx1]

Thanks for the tip. I'm measuring 37 mm with a mic on it. Your idea is really good, I just need to find a socket that big. Auto store wasn't much help

Ya cheap on eBay, just use a chunk of scrap 2" square tube? or round. Like $5. on eBay.

 

[lvUP]

Ya cheap on eBay, just use a chunk of scrap 2" square tube? or round. Like $5. on eBay.

Just checked and the 5 buck model is in Hong Kong. estimated delivery November 27. Tried autozone, sears, tractor supply. No luck.

Good news is the bearing is out. Without this site I would never of known to even check it.

 

[lvUP]

I believe I should be a poster child for ignoring the sled. The picture says it all.

 

[slimjim2525]

I regrease the jack shaft bearing every year. Just did it. It looks super clean. My sled has 20,107 miles on it and still the same bearing. I change the speedo bearing every other year, around 7 to 10k miles for me. But it also gets cleaned and regreased yearly.

 

[SXRider7Hundo]

I believe I should be a poster child for ignoring the sled. The picture says it all. View attachment 111496

If you can get her cleaned up and it has smooth operation I'd repack her and run it!

 

[Hooray!]

Fantastic thread... I know the prior owner replaced several bearings last year, I will start greasing these at the same time I do the oil and all the zerks in the spring to push out any water as noted earlier and then I am that much further ahead come fall. This needle zerk seems like a key part of making this easy along with the WD40 and air, the heat and the freezer tricks... fantastic information, thanks to all.

 

[duwem]

Never heard of pulling the pressed in seal out of a sealed bearing and re-installing it and expecting it to work the same....

 

[Roger]

I've been doing this on all my snowmobiles, every spring, for over 30 years. It's saved me thousands in new bearings.

 

[JRM]

Roger - great news, they can be a pain to get out.
The tool was made by a good friend of mine who is an auto mechanic and also drives heavy road construction machines for a living. The tool was welded onto the tip of a slide hammer. Heating does the trick

Jan-O
rxrider

 

[JRM]

Roger, i've edited my post and added a few more hints
[/QUOTE
Rxrider and Roger I’m a newbie to this site. I saw both of your posts and it sounds like you both made a tool to remove the collar and Jackshaft bearing which allowed you to get the jackshaft bearing out with out removing the chain case. Do either of you have more info on the tool you made? Thank you

 

[JRM]

Thanks rxrider.

Got that bearing out this morning, without removing any part of the chaincase. I made a tool similar to yours. I tried to remove the bearing without heating up the bearing housing, no go. I heated up the housing for 5 minutes with a heat gun, like you said, and it popped right out.

Thanks again.

What does the tool you made to pop the bearing out look like. How did you tap the collar off the jackshaft? Thanks

 

[YamahaHoss]

After about 3500-4000 miles of mostly "clean snow" riding(no snirt) I checked my Bearings....as most have said the Jackshaft bearing wasnt too bad,however the driveshaft bearing was pretty nasty....

If this is done seasonally,I doubt you would EVER have to replace either of these.

here is what i did....and how easy it was to do,taking very little time...I will definitely be doing this every season now.....

Tools needed are snap ring pliers and also i used a dental type tool,to POP off the covers...clean the bearings with something like wd40(not brake or carb cleaner) then add grease.

Remove belt,remove secondary(14mm bolt) and be sure to take note of all SHIMS/washers on the jackshaft,as there will be some infront of secondary and behind...be sure to put back together exactly same.

Step by step pics...

Dan

Great post thank you. When you pull the bearing seal off ,doesn't it crack ever or break? Also how do you get that to seal back up so it is basically water tight? Also how many times can you do this before the Yamaha Bearing just needs ro be replaced?

 

[YamahaHoss]

well YES and NO....

you do need to do all the above PLUS you need to get underneath,and at the set screws,as mentioned above....they are not the simplest thing to get at sometimes....but can be removed,then the bearing SHOULD slide off the end of shaft.....

the reason I say "should" is because ive seen them where they are RUSTED onto the shaft pretty badly...and can be a real prick to get off....

That is why I wanted to post this....My thinking here is if you do this once every season,or whenever you FEEL its needed,you shouldnt ever have to actually change the bearing for a long long time....

the time to do this was VERY QUICK....once you got the secondary off,its a matter of minutes only to pull cover and clean/grease her up....I did both bearings and had all back together in less then 15 minutes....youll never change out a bearing that fast.

I just used the same low temp synthetic grease that is in my gun,that i would use on skid ect.

Dan

What about the bearing on the other side in the chain case side. Does that need to be teplaced??