Few questions about bushings

[Skiduty]

Hi guys, just have a few questions I think I know the answer to, but want to be sure.
On the parts diagram there is part number 22RH and 20LH for the bimetal formed bushing but they have the same part number 9034-16N51-00. Are these different or the same? I’m used to seeing identical parts having the same number on the diagram.
It appears as though my machine didn’t have washer #16 on the diagram, listed as part number 90201-16022-00 I’ve uploaded a picture, but it’s not there I’m sure.
When I was taking the old bushings out I noticed that on the left side ski the longer collar #15 was on the outside of the steering knuckle ( I want to call it a spindle, but it’s called knuckle on the diagram) And on the right side ski the shorter collar #14 was on the outside of the knuckle. Is this correct or should #14 or #15 always be on the outside? Or does it matter?
You guys just pounding these bushings back in? Heating up the knuckle and freezing the bushings, then heating up the knuckle with bushings and freezing the collar or are you using a press? Thanks for any advice
Also noticed my an arm bushings have some play in them, hard job or easy? I will have a look in the manual,

 

[Skiduty]

On these upper A arm bushings are the bushings 41 and 45 metal or a nylon type bushing? Just wondering what usually wears the bushing la or the Collar 1 ( part 46 )? If there was a part that normally wore out I would go ahead and order them without taking it apart first. Also I see bushings are numbered 41 and 45 but have the same part number?

 

[74Nitro]

View attachment 179216View attachment 179217View attachment 179218Hi guys, just have a few questions I think I know the answer to, but want to be sure.
On the parts diagram there is part number 22RH and 20LH for the bimetal formed bushing but they have the same part number 9034-16N51-00. Are these different or the same? I’m used to seeing identical parts having the same number on the diagram.
It appears as though my machine didn’t have washer #16 on the diagram, listed as part number 90201-16022-00 I’ve uploaded a picture, but it’s not there I’m sure.
When I was taking the old bushings out I noticed that on the left side ski the longer collar #15 was on the outside of the steering knuckle ( I want to call it a spindle, but it’s called knuckle on the diagram) And on the right side ski the shorter collar #14 was on the outside of the knuckle. Is this correct or should #14 or #15 always be on the outside? Or does it matter?
You guys just pounding these bushings back in? Heating up the knuckle and freezing the bushings, then heating up the knuckle with bushings and freezing the collar or are you using a press? Thanks for any advice
Also noticed my an arm bushings have some play in them, hard job or easy? I will have a look in the manual,

Change the bottom bushings along with #13
Best to press them in with press or vice.
The outer spacers can be positioned however you like for ski stance width.
When I had a nytro, I added a long grease fitting into the knuckle.
Also advisable to drill small moisture drain holes into the skis.

 

[Skiduty]

Change the bottom bushings along with #13
Best to press them in with press or vice.
The outer spacers can be positioned however you like for ski stance width.
When I had a nytro, I added a long grease fitting into the knuckle.
Also advisable to drill small moisture drain holes into the skis.

Thank you @74Nitro , I see some play in the A arm bushings as well, I seen a post that said to take both A arms out still attached to the knuckle, I think the tie was or was the only thing mentioned that had to be removed although without looking at it I’m thinking the shock would have to be unbolted as well but I’m not looking at it right now. Those bushings need to be done with a press as well? I always heat up the recipient and freeze whatever needs to go in anyways. I have a 20 ton press but if they slide in fairly simply I may just do them with them still attached if possible? I’m thinking I will get oil lite bushings for the A arms, any recommendations for the ski to knuckle bushings?

 

[74Nitro]

Thank you @74Nitro , I see some play in the A arm bushings as well, I seen a post that said to take both A arms out still attached to the knuckle, I think the tie was or was the only thing mentioned that had to be removed although without looking at it I’m thinking the shock would have to be unbolted as well but I’m not looking at it right now. Those bushings need to be done with a press as well? I always heat up the recipient and freeze whatever needs to go in anyways. I have a 20 ton press but if they slide in fairly simply I may just do them with them still attached if possible? I’m thinking I will get oil lite bushings for the A arms, any recommendations for the ski to knuckle bushings?

OEM or kimpex carries them also.
The plastic A arm bushings can be tapped in.

 

[Skiduty]

OEM or kimpex carries them also.
The plastic A arm bushings can be tapped in.

I thought so, they went in easily on my ATV but I had seen some threads saying the oil lites were pretty tight. Thank you

 

[Mooseman]

If you want some better spindle bushings, check these out. Way better than those thin pieces Yamaha sells.

Yamaha Single Keel Ski

Yamaha Single Keel Ski

www.barnofparts.com

And I would also look for Oillite bushings for the A-arms too instead of the plastic pieces. I can't find any for your 2008 (they changed in 2010) but there might be some here:

Thread 'Oilite Bushing Kits - Yamaha 4-Stroke sleds'

Dec 15, 2020

We have manufactured Oilite bushing kits for the Yamaha 4-stroke sleds for 15 years now and we will continue to do so. I have all the 2003-2014 true Yamaha (Japan built) kits in stock and shipping daily.

Oilite self-lubricating bearing products are made by a powder metallurgy process, allowing close control on the manufacturing process. They contain large interconnected pores to channel lubricants to the areas between shaft and bearing.

Take a Apex or RX-1 model in comparison of OEM plastic bushings to the superior Oilite material, if you were to buy all new OEM plastic bushings it...

• Srxspec
• Replies: 6
• Forum: General Yamaha Discussion

• 

 

[74Nitro]

If you want some better spindle bushings, check these out. Way better than those thin pieces Yamaha sells.

Yamaha Single Keel Ski

Yamaha Single Keel Ski

www.barnofparts.com

And I would also look for Oillite bushings for the A-arms too instead of the plastic pieces. I can't find any for your 2008 (they changed in 2010) but there might be some here:

Thread 'Oilite Bushing Kits - Yamaha 4-Stroke sleds'

Dec 15, 2020

We have manufactured Oilite bushing kits for the Yamaha 4-stroke sleds for 15 years now and we will continue to do so. I have all the 2003-2014 true Yamaha (Japan built) kits in stock and shipping daily.

Oilite self-lubricating bearing products are made by a powder metallurgy process, allowing close control on the manufacturing process. They contain large interconnected pores to channel lubricants to the areas between shaft and bearing.

Take a Apex or RX-1 model in comparison of OEM plastic bushings to the superior Oilite material, if you were to buy all new OEM plastic bushings it...

• Srxspec
• Replies: 6
• Forum: General Yamaha Discussion

• 

Good call, go with the Ulmer.
The 2008 nytro had smaller diameter top bushings, 09 and up were larger.

 

[Mooseman]

The link title didn't come out right. It's not a single keel ski.

Nytro & Phazer Spindle Bushing Kit

Yeah, I learned a long time ago to go with the Oillites and those spindle bushings. I got my first ones from UpBushman and now it's BOP that makes them.

 

[Skiduty]

If you want some better spindle bushings, check these out. Way better than those thin pieces Yamaha sells.

Yamaha Single Keel Ski

Yamaha Single Keel Ski

www.barnofparts.com

And I would also look for Oillite bushings for the A-arms too instead of the plastic pieces. I can't find any for your 2008 (they changed in 2010) but there might be some here:

Thread 'Oilite Bushing Kits - Yamaha 4-Stroke sleds'

Dec 15, 2020

We have manufactured Oilite bushing kits for the Yamaha 4-stroke sleds for 15 years now and we will continue to do so. I have all the 2003-2014 true Yamaha (Japan built) kits in stock and shipping daily.

Oilite self-lubricating bearing products are made by a powder metallurgy process, allowing close control on the manufacturing process. They contain large interconnected pores to channel lubricants to the areas between shaft and bearing.

Take a Apex or RX-1 model in comparison of OEM plastic bushings to the superior Oilite material, if you were to buy all new OEM plastic bushings it...

• Srxspec
• Replies: 6
• Forum: General Yamaha Discussion

• 

Thank you, I was considering the oil lite bushings and I will go with those.
Oddly, my machine is registered as a 2008 MTX but I’m pretty sure it’s mostly a 2010 XTX. The 08 lower A arm bushings are the same as a 2010 but the upper A arm bushings are different. I’m going to take it apart first and measure before ordering but my money is that all the bushings are the same as in a 2010

 

[Skiduty]

Do these collars in the lower an arms usually wear much with the original nylon bushings? I’m guessing they don’t being as they are rubbing on nylon but thought I would ask. Would there be a spec or measurement for the collars in the manual? I’m going to have a look. I agree with you @74Nitro , it would be great if there was grease zeros for these bushings like on my Polaris ATV. There is enough room in between the 2 nylon bushings on the lower an arms that the grease would make its way in.

 

[maim]

no the collars do not wear with the nylon bushings. with the oil lite, yes the collars/bolts wear. hit this issue before on my high mile apex and my old rx after i sold to a sibling.

 

[Skiduty]

Bushings are out, they didn’t exactly fall out lol, long tapered punch and tapity tap tap, tap tap tap. Once the one side was out, the other side came out easy peasy with a 16mm.

 

[maim]

the easiest way i have found to install them is to use a legnth of 5/16" threaded rod with fender washers. a ratchet wrench also speeds this up a lot. every time i went to do them with a hammer, i always messed a few bushings up. with the threaded rod, i have only messed up one to date and have used the same rod on 4 different sleds.

 

[Skiduty]

the easiest way i have found to install them is to use a legnth of 5/16" threaded rod with fender washers. a ratchet wrench also speeds this up a lot. every time i went to do them with a hammer, i always messed a few bushings up. with the threaded rod, i have only messed up one to date and have used the same rod on 4 different sleds.

I will use the threaded rod tip for the inner bushings on the Lowe A arms and probably use my press for the outer bushings and the upper an arm bushings. Thanks for the tip,