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First go on the Attak. Not what I was hoping for.


First of all, 5.7's push real bad in loose snow. I've run them for over 20,000 miles. Secondly, with 5.7's & 13mm swaybar I recommend pulling up strap one notch. I've run this combo for , again, 20,000 miles...
 
stevewithOCD said:
First of all, 5.7's push real bad in loose snow. I've run them for over 20,000 miles. Secondly, with 5.7's & 13mm swaybar I recommend pulling up strap one notch. I've run this combo for , again, 20,000 miles...
Click to expand...
X2
I've run startron gas treatment. That's what my guy recommended. I've had good luck with it.
I run the pilots with dual carbides and they are great on the trail but not off.
 
That sled needs to spin at 10200.
Check the exhaust by holding two leather mitts over the exhaust outlets with the sled at idle...it should stall if not it is leaking somewhere.
What track do you have? The stock ripsaw is like all season radials on your car...poor in all conditions! The more aggressive Cobra works better on these sleds with limiter strap loosened and sled setup for more weight transfer.
 
stevewithOCD said:
First of all, 5.7's push real bad in loose snow. I've run them for over 20,000 miles. Secondly, with 5.7's & 13mm swaybar I recommend pulling up strap one notch. I've run this combo for , again, 20,000 miles...
Click to expand...

Thank you, I was planning on pulling the strap up a notch but wanted to test it out first before I make adjustments. Do you think I'm over carbided w/o a studded track?
 
sideshowBob said:
That sled needs to spin at 10200.
Check the exhaust by holding two leather mitts over the exhaust outlets with the sled at idle...it should stall if not it is leaking somewhere.
What track do you have? The stock ripsaw is like all season radials on your car...poor in all conditions! The more aggressive Cobra works better on these sleds with limiter strap loosened and sled setup for more weight transfer.
Click to expand...

All new exhaust. Covered the exhaust just to make sure my work held and it stalled. I have a 1.25 ripsaw on it. I've had really good luck with that track over the years running on hard pack w/o studs. ...
 
Let's back up a little bit here. Sounds like you have three different issues here. Run it on hard pack, clean out the motor & injectors a little & then re-analyze what needs help. I can tell you that the reason TY guys put on 5.7's in the first place was the hard steering & darting we had with stock ski's. If you look at profile, they don't stick down as far as stock ski's. So the downfall is poor deep or loose powder handling. I actually switched to snowtrackers for this reason. The 5.7 steers easier, but don't bite as hard so we pull the strap up one. That also keeps front end down for better trail riding. We put the 13 mm swaybar on so we could lighten shocks & lower or flatten front end while still keeping front from rolling over in corners. This turned out to be a better geometry for this sled. As far as back-firing & low RPM's, run it again. Open it up, clean it out. Then fix back-firing cuz that means not running well which could be slowing motor. When back-firing fixed, then look at where RPM's are & get back to us. WE WILL take you to the promised land our young padawan..sorry, just saw Star Wars...
 
Soft fresh snow skis digging in, track hunting for traction, first run old gas. Ya wait for some hardpack before you toss in the towel. Sounds like many of my first runs.
 
stevewithOCD said:
Let's back up a little bit here. Sounds like you have three different issues here. Run it on hard pack, clean out the motor & injectors a little & then re-analyze what needs help. I can tell you that the reason TY guys put on 5.7's in the first place was the hard steering & darting we had with stock ski's. If you look at profile, they don't stick down as far as stock ski's. So the downfall is poor deep or loose powder handling. I actually switched to snowtrackers for this reason. The 5.7 steers easier, but don't bite as hard so we pull the strap up one. That also keeps front end down for better trail riding. We put the 13 mm swaybar on so we could lighten shocks & lower or flatten front end while still keeping front from rolling over in corners. This turned out to be a better geometry for this sled. As far as back-firing & low RPM's, run it again. Open it up, clean it out. Then fix back-firing cuz that means not running well which could be slowing motor. When back-firing fixed, then look at where RPM's are & get back to us. WE WILL take you to the promised land our young padawan..sorry, just saw Star Wars...
Click to expand...

Haha, pulled my clutches last night and they are binding up. I'm not sure how many miles are "truly" on the sled, I think the 4200 mile gauge reading might be a little mis leading. Time for clutch rebuilding. I'm sure that will solve my rpm issue. As far as the 5.7s go I did a ton of research before buying them, I just need to get it on hard pack before I adjust anything. I've owned dozens of sleds and rebuilt most of them. I have never felt a sled that was so unpredictable as this sled before. I guess becoming accustom to my old ladies vector with eps and tuners before riding the old attak might have given me a different expectation!! Lol
 
Sasquatch said:
Soft fresh snow skis digging in, track hunting for traction, first run old gas. Ya wait for some hardpack before you toss in the towel. Sounds like many of my first runs.
Click to expand...

Yea the snow was awful, I did get a text from the neighbor telling me how sweet the sled sounded! So it wasn't all bad!!
 
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