First issue, no start.

[Bobsledder]

I just had the same thing happen for the 1st time this weekend after 3 consecutive days of riding with no issues starting cold. It cranked but would not start after overnight soak at -2-4 F. I had 3 low voltage codes. I noticed that no fuel pump cycle at key up. I jumped started it from a truck and the fuel pump cycled on key up right away and it started on 2nd crank which appears to be the new norm with the latest flash. It may be a combination of thinks going on hear. I may relocate the relays for a backup. I am going to put a CTEK charger on mine overnight if possible when real cold. I have seen several things written up on these things that shows a high battery charge state is key to a good start.

 

[Wannaviper]

I have three vipers that have always started, even after being outside in 25-29 F below. I took my 2016 into the dealer for the first service, and hit the key....no fuel pump. It was probably mid-20's, but had been down to zero the night before. The dealer told me that it was the mechanical relay in the fuse box, and that it has been an issue for them, with no known fix. His recommendation was to take the relay out and hold it in your hand, or just shoot a hairdryer up under the hood in the direction of the fuse box. I am thinking that the fuse box relocation kit, and carrying the hand warmer packets would be good insurance; for now I bought a 100' extension cord and a hairdryer to keep in my trailer!

 

[chuckpp]

I have three vipers that have always started, even after being outside in 25-29 F below. I took my 2016 into the dealer for the first service, and hit the key....no fuel pump. It was probably mid-20's, but had been down to zero the night before. The dealer told me that it was the mechanical relay in the fuse box, and that it has been an issue for them, with no known fix. His recommendation was to take the relay out and hold it in your hand, or just shoot a hairdryer up under the hood in the direction of the fuse box. I am thinking that the fuse box relocation kit, and carrying the hand warmer packets would be good insurance; for now I bought a 100' extension cord and a hairdryer to keep in my trailer!

I will have to look but I though I put a solid state relay in my vector that was out of a viper I think I have the box at home...

 

[chuckpp]

I will have to look but I though I put a solid state relay in my vector that was out of a viper I think I have the box at home...

Check out this part number it is a solid state relay 8gn 81950-00-00

 

[Wannaviper]

I will have to look but I though I put a solid state relay in my vector that was out of a viper I think I have the box at home...

My dealer told me that there is no fix. Yamaha did make a solid state relay to fix the issue with the Vector, and maybe other Yamaha sleds, but this is Arctic Cat; he told me that the Vector relay does not fit the Viper. If anyone has successfully used the Yamaha solid state relay in th Viper, please let us know so that I can "educate" my dealer.

 

[grizztracks]

Check out this part number it is a solid state relay 8gn 81950-00-00

The pin configuration and dimensions are different so the Yamaha SSR will not work. I don't know of a direct SSR replacement for the Viper.

Viper Relays Specs:

 

[musselmark]

I have a vector and went through this frozen relay crap before as did my buddy with an Apex. I fixed the problem 3 years ago and it never happened again. I removed them then drilled a tiny hole in them. Sprayed WD40 into them with the little red straw thing then let them drain and siliconed over the hole. As I understand it they were made in high humidity climate and the moisture freezes preventing contacts from touching inside. Wd 40 gets rid of the moisture. I put 12000km on them since in temp down to -30C and never again had an issue. just be sure not to drill too deep.

 

[ksiesel]

There are three relays that can cause a no start condition but the good thing is that there's an easy check for two of them.

1) With the e-switch in the run position turn the key switch to the "ON" position and you should hear the Fuel Pump run for a few seconds verifying the Fuel Pump Relay is working.
2) With the e-switch in the run position turn the key switch to the "ON" position and the tail light should be illuminated verifying the Tail Light Relay is working. (this relay is important because it not only powers the tail light it also powers the Fuel Injectors)
3) The ISC relay can be checked by rotating it to one of the other two positions.

The Headlight Relay or Fan Relay can be used in place of any of the three critical relays. The headlight relay powers the headlights, heated components and accessories. The fan relay powers just the fan.

Grizz,

This is an excellent post and excellent advise. However, as I studied the wiring diagram today, I believe the Fuel Injectors are actually powered by the ISC relay. As such, I don't think the tail light relay has any impact on operation.

The image below is the chassis and engine harness diagram from a 2015 7000. At the injectors, the power wire is RED/BLU, but the color changes at the engine to chassis connector 27 to ORG. ORG from the relay is the output of ISC.

In summary, I'm pretty sure this sled only needs the ISC and Fuel Pump relays to start. Anyone with a hood off or a fuse box relocated want to pull the tail light relay and see if she still starts?

 

[grizztracks]

Yes, you are correct. I had that shown correctly in the ISC power distribution schematic I listed previously but I made a change after making the mistake of not following the red/blue wire through the connector at pin 4. I thought it was a strange way to power the injectors but I also don't have a lot of confidence in the way Arctic Cat wired this sled. Thanks, that simplifies things a little bit.

(Corrections made to previous posts)

 

[sxr70001]

The first year I had my sled the tail light fuse went out and the gauges were out too.

 

[super1c]

There are two relays that can cause a no start condition but the good thing is that there's an easy check them.

1) With the e-switch in the run position turn the key switch to the "ON" position and you should hear the Fuel Pump run for a few seconds verifying the Fuel Pump Relay is working.
2) With the e-switch in the run position turn the key switch to the "ON" position the tail light will be on verifying the Tail Light Relay is working.

3) If the fuel pump runs and tail light works the ISC relay can be checked by rotating it with the Tail Light Relay which was previously checked and it's operation confirmed.

* The Headlight Relay, Tail Light Relay, Fan Relay, ISC Relay and Fuel Pump Relay are all interchangeable and can be checked by rotating them to the tail light position then turning the key to the "ON" position to see if the tail light illuminates.

X2 on awesome information. Thanks, makes perfect sense now.

 

[FrozenTows4]

I have a vector and went through this frozen relay crap before as did my buddy with an Apex. I fixed the problem 3 years ago and it never happened again. I removed them then drilled a tiny hole in them. Sprayed WD40 into them with the little red straw thing then let them drain and siliconed over the hole. As I understand it they were made in high humidity climate and the moisture freezes preventing contacts from touching inside. Wd 40 gets rid of the moisture. I put 12000km on them since in temp down to -30C and never again had an issue. just be sure not to drill too deep.

Very interesting concept. Perhaps the WD40 would provide for some corrosion resistance as well.
I had a frozen fuel pump relay yesterday. Fortunately the fuse relocate makes things Alot easier to get at.
Not sure if I'm brave enough to try the drill & WD40 trick yet though.

 

[chuckpp]

They make a solid state relay for the vector.I don't have the part number here with me but it is available

 

[chuckpp]

They make a solid state relay for the vector.I don't have the part number here with me but it is available

Pt number 8gn 81950 00 00

 

[grizztracks]

The mechanical relay being used is "Flux sealed" but there is an option in this series for "Sealed type washable" which I would think is more suitable for snowmobile use. The relays being used in the Viper have a manufacture's part number 303-1AH-C-R1-12vdc for the "Flux sealed" and if you replace The -C- with -S- so the part number is 303-1AH-S-R1-12vdc then you get the "Sealed type washable". Mouser has these relays at a reasonable price so I think I'll order 5 of them and swap out the relays to see if they are any better.

I'm also researching the possibility of replacing the Fuel and ISC relays with the Yamaha solid state.