Fix Power Sports Clutch Kit AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I used the dial-engage on my srx a few years back, and it works great at getting the movable sheave over to the belt, and thus getting rid of the jerk on engagement. But, i think it is a bit of a band-aid for getting the right split collars in there to start with. Remember, when you have to big of a gap on the moveable sheave, the sheave has to slide over a ways before making contact with the belt. When that happens, the contact point between the roller and the weight is not where it should be at engagement, it is further down the profile of the weight. So, you are getting less of a bang on engagement, but your weight is engaging at a less aggressive spot too.

If you don't have access to the tools to modify the split collars, it may be a good fix, but getting the right split collars in there is the best route in my opinion.
 
SRXracer said:
I used the dial-engage on my srx a few years back, and it works great at getting the movable sheave over to the belt, and thus getting rid of the jerk on engagement. But, i think it is a bit of a band-aid for getting the right split collars in there to start with. Remember, when you have to big of a gap on the moveable sheave, the sheave has to slide over a ways before making contact with the belt. When that happens, the contact point between the roller and the weight is not where it should be at engagement, it is further down the profile of the weight. So, you are getting less of a bang on engagement, but your weight is engaging at a less aggressive spot too.

If you don't have access to the tools to modify the split collars, it may be a good fix, but getting the right split collars in there is the best route in my opinion.
Click to expand...

SRXracer,

You are missing the point of the dial engage...the ONLY reason I would use a dial engage is when CUTTING the primary sheaves....Once you CUT youre sheaves and split collar to allow for better Overdrive,you have ALREADY changed where your ramps/rollers will contact at engagement...there is NO WAY around this issue,since cutting sheaves is what created the issue.

So,you then have to deal with the issue,two ways to do it are either shim over the spider,which MANY clutch gurus do...this does the exact same thing as the dial adjust..slides the sheave over more,to where it is NEXT to belt,so no JERKING...If you change split collars like you said,you are then back to square one,and losing OD...you must cut split collar to achieve OD in the first place,which is why this whole issue arises.

hopefully this will help you understand what i mean.

Dan
 
Dan, I'm used to working on Poo P-85 primarys for 20+ years. With the right tools it's very easy to set your belt clearance for whatever width belt and whatever belt spacing you want. Can this be done on the Yammie clutch, with the correct tools of course, and is there a preferred belt clearance for the Apex?. Poo's like .010 to .020 belt clearance. rr
 
badcats said:
i have one, it works no better than my straight line kit and it cost a lot more. a waste of money. very lazy feeling, slow back shift.
Click to expand...

I 100% agree(with the backshift statement)...As I said,this kit works near same as others out there,and what I didnt finish with is meaning side by side 0-80mph or so...


you are correct that the backshift is certainly going to be more stock like,reason is FIX utilzes the STOCK flyweights in their Kit...and we ALL know how the FLAT CURVED stockers react,the lesser curve then DPYRs leaves them to hit RPMS lower as yammie designed them to hit on torque(10,200-10,300) then slowly climb to peak HP(10,700-10,900)....IMO i never liked how the stock flyweights react....DPYRs have less of a SPACE from bottom to top end,only having a 200-300 spread in RPMS.

therefore backshift will ALWAYS feel sluggish with stock flyweights compared to other flyweight kits out there....

One thing FIX does do well,is cover the whole Overdrive issue with their wide belt thoery...I like this alot and it works well...only downfall i see is having to use FIX specific belts which cannot be bought anywhere else.

I still like my DPYR setup overall,even with the slight jerk at engagement it is not too bad,but when I add the dial engage this week Ill report back which should remove the jerk and result in smooth as stock engage.

Still havent been beat!..DpYRs in my book still the king! :-o

Dan
 
ricerocket said:
Dan, I'm used to working on Poo P-85 primarys for 20+ years. With the right tools it's very easy to set your belt clearance for whatever width belt and whatever belt spacing you want. Can this be done on the Yammie clutch, with the correct tools of course, and is there a preferred belt clearance for the Apex?. Poo's like .010 to .020 belt clearance. rr
Click to expand...

RR..

from what i know so far,two ways only....shimming spider over OR dial-engage from "megapower".

Many guys who cut clutches for OD just live with the jerky engagement,its really not bad at all,but Since i heard about this engage thing Im gonna test it,see how it works..

the belt life issue was much more due to fixed sheave having too much cut off on first few that were done here...now with only 25thou off fixed sheave belt contacts sheave at a lower point on belt,to not hit cord area..and Ive blended my CUTS now,to make and even better area for belt to engage at....belt wear now on my new cut is perfect.

Dan
 
ricerocket said:
DPYR weights are? rr
Click to expand...

DPYR62=Dalton Flyweights(check their site)

I use ONLY Dalton components..IMO best there is,period.

the PRoline kit,which my setup is derived from...ALSO use DALTONs components.....which is why I like the PL best as far as "kits" go.

Dan
 
First of all, i don't know of anyone that shims the spider on a yamaha clutch, i personally would not want a .020 thick shim in there floating free at 8500 rpms. I believe other manuf. sleds allow for this, but i don't think yamaha does, the primarys are built different.

As far as the dial engage is concerned, trust me, the right way to fix this problem is to put the split collars on a surface grinder and machine them to the right thickness. When you reassemble the clutch, the entire movable side of the clutch will slide over whatever the amount you took off the split collars, keeping the relationship between weight and roller the same. This will not change how far the the clutch will shift out. This is exactly how we used to set up our race sleds.

Eric
 
SRXracer said:
First of all, i don't know of anyone that shims the spider on a yamaha clutch, i personally would not want a .020 thick shim in there floating free at 8500 rpms. I believe other manuf. sleds allow for this, but i don't think yamaha does, the primarys are built different.

As far as the dial engage is concerned, trust me, the right way to fix this problem is to put the split collars on a surface grinder and machine them to the right thickness. When you reassemble the clutch, the entire movable side of the clutch will slide over whatever the amount you took off the split collars, keeping the relationship between weight and roller the same. This will not change how far the the clutch will shift out. This is exactly how we used to set up our race sleds.

Eric
Click to expand...


actually ive spoke to several well known tuners from this site who shim....I personally do not like the idea of something spinning in there either...so Im going to dial engage.

you are still not getting what I mean though....sure you can machine down the split collar to get sheave over more,but if you dont machine face of sheave it will not go any further to OD which is what this whole thread is about....Once you machine faces of sheaves to get OD,then you have more sidegap to belt clearence...therefore the jerky engage and why they either shim or use dial engage...

what you are talking about is more like what FIX KIT does...but in there case the wide belt is used then to get OD.

I think we might be talking about two separate things here...

dan
 
See that is the reason I asked. On a Poo clutch the spyder shims are locked down, when the spyder is tightened down. Sounds like yammies are different.
 
ricerocket said:
Dan, how would your setup work or compare to the Ulmer kit, if you didn't cut your clutch? rr
Click to expand...

there is now a local guy here who bought the ulmer kit..so maybe ill see him sometime to run them off....I hear great things about ulmers setup so Im sure it will work well....My setup has been strong here locally..other apexs have been 3-6mph slower...I think Toms with the FIX setup now is closest to mine...mid and top I still walk away but Its closer then it was stock for sure.

hoping to get radar track setup sometime soon...we got too much snow on lake still,cant be plowed..most likely wont be radaring here till we get rain and melts off lake snow.

Dan
 
ricerocket said:
See that is the reason I asked. On a Poo clutch the spyder shims are locked down, when the spyder is tightened down. Sounds like yammies are different.
Click to expand...

Yah this would be different...unless the guys doing it have a shim that can stay put against sheave somehow?...i know spinning at thoe rpms i wouldnt want a loose shim in there..asking for trouble.
 
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