Fixing/tweaking stock Attak clutching for free.

[Turk]

Guys
I finally have some time to start tweaking the stock clutching in my Attak. I found the stock clutching to be amazing for lake running but it was way to aggressive for my 240ish lb butt out of the hole. The rpm,s would hit 10k; nose dive to 9200, spike back up to 10 & drop again & then recover. The stock clutching is good if your 175 pounds. Anyway for the heavier guys just grind off some mass from the 2 inner rivets. I ground the 2 inner rivets flush with the weights on the larger side & it vastly improved holeshot. We just got dumped on with 10" snow so I really can,t make a call till I get on some hardpack snow. I removed about 3 grams & will probably take out more. Top end rpm,s are still 10,700 rpm. The weights are just loaded too much in the inner holes & it really brings down rpm,s. If you have probs with a shortie this will work in those too.

 

[BADSLED]

I will have to try it. I was under the impression i was sucking the belt on secondary with white at 60deg. will give it a shot.. what is your rpm on a holeshot and mid?

 

[Turk]

Rpm,s are better but will probably remove more weight. Too much snow to test sccurately so track just spins in the fluff rather then hook. You have 3 options to fix this
Remove inner mass from stock weights
15.6 mm rollers but that will raise engagement
Shallower helix like something close to a 46/44.

 

[BADSLED]

The old yamaha 45deg. may have to give her a try after so many years..

 

[radta7]

What will a windage plate add to a stock attak?

 

[riverrat]

hey turk, do you still run simmons skis on your attak? how do you like them? thanks.......

 

[Turk]

I switched to C & A,s. The bergstrom carbides on the simmons were catching the lip of my trailer & breaking for some reason. C & A,s corner better but dart a lot more.

 

[pro116]

Turk I removed the whole fist rivet on some sleds.

 

[Turk]

Probably gonna end up going that way.Didn,t want to remove too much.

 

[BADSLED]

What rpm are you getting with removing first rivet?

 

[pro116]

10,500

 

[Shane]

Are you guys talking about the rivets closest to the end of the arms? Or, the rivets nearest the mounting point? I just got my ATTAK last week after riding an APEX. I have not noticed the drop in RPM you guys are talking about but I have not really had any time to test either. Any advice to improve this kick azz machine is greatly appreicated.

 

[pro116]

yes the first rivet.It's goes inner,center,outer.The one closest to the base.

 

[Shane]

Thanks pro116. I am looking to get the most out of my new ATTAK within the limits of its design. It is obviously not the mogul masher that a Renegade is, but it was also not designed to be a mogul masher. No sense in trying to make it something it is not. However, I would like to maximize it's handling, rough trail ride and overall performance. I had HYGEAR SUSPENSION do my APEX with Add on Rez-e's and dual rate springs as well as revalve work and LOVED IT! The front end definitely needs attention and I have a 13mm sway bar on order from Bruce at Pioneer. I have the FAT BOY spring on the rear, the C-Clip set on the middle, the cam on position #5. I am wondering if I need to go full blown HYGEAR again. No doubt, Ross is a GREAT GUY and knows his stuff!

The sled came stock with the limiter strap in the next to loosest hole and I tightened it up one notch to improve handling. I think the front shocks need some spring and valving, or do I just replace them all together? I took out weight transfer to help the dreaded push in the corners, but I have not ridden since making the change and adding the FAT BOY SPRING. It seems like most of you guys are actually adding weight transfer and not sacrificing turning capability. What am I missing here fellas? I ride very aggressively and weigh in without gear at 235. Thanks in advance guys!