number1kyster
TY 4 Stroke God
thanks!
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
number1kyster said:
Not only will it fit, but i recommend it with Fox Floats if cornering is important to you and you plan to run the shocks with enough air to handle bigger bumps (I prefer to run mine in the 50-60 psi range on rougher trails). Yamaha recommends a minimum of 50 psi.
The Floats act like a very soft spring until they get compressed quite a bit and this leads to more body roll than standard springs.
The 13mm gets the front end back to where it corners well again.
RtxViper
Expert
Just got back from up north this weekend and Holy crap there was so much snow!! More than I have seen in forever. Buried my heavy pig 5 times! The stock yamaha skis suck they just drag you into the deep snow any how. We did hit one groomed trail on our ride to Phipps and with 50 psi in the floats the sled handled absolutely awesome. I am very happy with the swaybar thanks for everyones help. Thanks to me for letting my old man drive it and him hitting a tree with it. Thank god its only the bumper and hood to be replaced it was a pretty light hit. Definitly want to get some cna skis and studs for next year.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
I played with the pressure in my Fox shocks a couple of days ago.
I tried 35, 40, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70 and rode at least 30 miles with each setup on different trails. In the end I decided I liked 60-65 the best combined with tightening the limiter by one hole and the rear suspension cranked up high (higher than stock high position).
I found this gave me the best bump handling, smoothest ride, and still very good cornering and inside ski lift control.
When I lowered the front I found the ride got rougher and the handling really didn't improve much. If the trails were smoother this wouldn't have mattered and a lower front would probably worked better for me.
The trails were mostly full of stutter bumps, most of them were small, but there were also quite a few bigger bump. With 60-65 psi, the shocks soak up the bumps extremely well (including the small stutters).
The other thing I found (which probably just me - or it could be that the 13mm sway bar isn't quite perfect and throwing one side off a little) is I needed 3psi more on the right shock to get the same controlled amount of inside ski lift. If I ran them equal my right turns were better than left.
I tried 35, 40, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70 and rode at least 30 miles with each setup on different trails. In the end I decided I liked 60-65 the best combined with tightening the limiter by one hole and the rear suspension cranked up high (higher than stock high position).
I found this gave me the best bump handling, smoothest ride, and still very good cornering and inside ski lift control.
When I lowered the front I found the ride got rougher and the handling really didn't improve much. If the trails were smoother this wouldn't have mattered and a lower front would probably worked better for me.
The trails were mostly full of stutter bumps, most of them were small, but there were also quite a few bigger bump. With 60-65 psi, the shocks soak up the bumps extremely well (including the small stutters).
The other thing I found (which probably just me - or it could be that the 13mm sway bar isn't quite perfect and throwing one side off a little) is I needed 3psi more on the right shock to get the same controlled amount of inside ski lift. If I ran them equal my right turns were better than left.
olcountry
Veteran
ReX said:
this right turn being a little better could also be because the left a-arms are set back slightly farther than the right, approx 1/2 inch or so.
if you take a tape and start measuring from a specific point on the spindle or a-arm bolt or somthing stationary you will find the right side measures longer than the left.
example: left side to rear axle bolt is 1/2 inch less than right, just somthing I discovered one day sitting on the driveway.
le700
Expert
A little O.T, but how much does a pair of fox floats with pump, weigh??
