FRONT PIVOT ARM FITMENT/INTERCHANGE QUESTION

[cannondale27]

Shocks will help alot but take a look at the approach angle of our skid.When you hit a hole its going to be hard for it to glide over since its almost a direct hit into side of hole.Contributes to that slide wear right before the wheels also.

 

[ViperMan]

Viperman, some one here said that the Hygear revalving was still a single stage valving and just stiffer. They had theirs redone by Carver I think with much better results and a progressive valve stack. I had mine done by Monster Performance in Upstate NY and they put me in a progressive stack and my shocks are a world better than stock. You might want to consider a different valving setup. I'll see if I can find that post about the Hygear valving to post up for you.

Motoman765, you are correct. Hygear did re-valve mine using a single stage set up. As it has been explained to me, this will result in a stiffer ride and noticeably on the stutter bumps, but the trade off being better suited for aggressive trail riding and less of a likelihood of bottoming. I told them my weight and riding style and let them adjust based on their experience. I was pleased with the ride and at this point am just having all 4 shocks serviced with a very high quality shock oil.

 

[cannondale27]

My Custom Axis rear is also single stage.Surprised me since it works so well on everything even small stuff.

 

[rnoonan]

I realize this is a very old thread now, but I need to replace the front pivot arm on my 2007 Phazer FX for the first time. From this discussion, it sounds like I definitely should go with the 2010 version, since it has much better reinforcing on the arms (easy to be much better than nothing...). Since this thread is so old, I assume there has been lots of experience gained about replacing this part by the folks here. I've never done this before, so I was hoping to get a some answers/advice:

• Sounds like the 2010 part (8GN-47331-03-00) is the way to go and should fit my 2007. Is this still the case, or is there a newer part that would be better? Is there anything I should watch out for since I would not be replacing the original part? Things like the original shafts and bushings still fitting, or connections to other parts still lining up.
• I do need to place the shaft that goes through the lower tube (and the bushings), since mine got chewed up a bit when the arm broke. Should I replace it with the original shaft/bushings or the 2010 shaft/collar that goes with the 2010 arm? I was expecting the parts to be the same, but they do have different part numbers (ordering this from partzilla.com).
• Earlier in this thread I saw a couple of mentions of full rear suspension mod kits or billet link mod kits that have a bunch of the parts included. I couldn't find anything like that for sale. Are those things still around this many years later and should I look into that?
• Stupid noob question: what is the billet link? I saw a couple mentions of that, but I don't know what it is.

Thanks a lot for any help anyone can give me. First time making repairs like this and I just want to make sure I do it right.

Bob

 

[maim]

well the one i can answer is the billit link. it links the 2 shocks together in the rear skid. on the 09 rtx i have converted to xtx, we are using the fett brothers link and it gets pulled and the bearings get greased every year.

 

[rnoonan]

Thanks maim, that helps a lot because as it turns out, I think that is the other part that is broken. I only knew it by the name "bracket 2" in the parts list (8GC-47416-01-00). I did notice that in the 2010 sled diagrams it looks like a solid part (and is much more expensive!).

This makes me really curious about the mod kits. Doing a search for "billet link" here, I found a thread where cannondale27 lists the parts in the yamaha kit, and they basically cover what I need to purchase. Sounds like it would be a lot cheaper/easier to get it in a single kit.

 

[cannondale27]

I don’t think they offer it as a kit anymore. Most of us got these kits as Warranty. Like you have seen it’s quite a lot more than just the link and front arm. Yes it is worth upgrading. Either way make sure your shock are working right or you will continue breaking parts.

 

[rnoonan]

Thanks for the info. I was afraid that would probably be the case (kit no longer be available). I guess I'll just have to buy all the pieces separately.

I'll definitely have to look into getting the shocks worked on, since I've never done anything to them. I see mention of revalving and rebiulding earlier in this thread. What is the difference and where can I get this done? Specialized places online that you send them in, or is it best done at a dealership?

OK, I just noticed your sig mentions refresh/revalve. Is this work that you do?

 

[cannondale27]

I do but honestly have never done a Phazer revalve. That Custom Axis rear shock still performs awesome on the Phazer. If Carver did the revalves back in day he would still have specs and I could do the work for you no problem.

 

[rnoonan]

Cannondale27, I have been doing some more digging around and noticed a thread you started that provided some great pictures of the new and old linkage:

https://ty4stroke.com/threads/old-linkage-vs-updated-linkage-pics.53589/

These pictures are very helpful, but they got me thinking about a possible problem I will run into. It looks like the new billet link is wider than the old pivot link. Is this the case? If so, does that mean I would need to update the bell-crank too? Just trying to reduce the cost where I can since the cost is really adding up now that the kits are not available and I have to buy everything separate. More importantly, does the rear shock fit into this OK? I assume those of you that upgraded must have been able to connect it to your existing shock without much trouble, but the diagram for the 2010 suspension shows different parts for this connection so I thought I'd check to see if anyone had any feedback on that.

As for the shock work, should I contact Carver Performance about revalving?

 

[maim]

cannondale does shocks as well.

 

[rnoonan]

cannondale does shocks as well.

Thanks maim. I was definitely interested in having cannondale do the revalve, but his response above sounded like maybe I'd have to go through Carver.

I would definitely prefer to do it through cannondale, but I didn't know what the next step would be.

By the way, I think I got lucky with the suspension parts. I found a couple of eBay auctions from a sled being parted out that seem to cover all of the parts I need, including the front pivot arm, billet link, and pivot arm bracket (or bell-crank, not sure what it is called since I've seen both names used) and all associated bolts, nuts, shafts, etc. Pretty much what I assume would have been included in those suspension kits. The parts came from a 2016 Phazer, but I checked the part numbers and they are all identical to the 2010 Phazer so I assume everything should fit.

 

[cannondale27]

Thanks maim. I was definitely interested in having cannondale do the revalve, but his response above sounded like maybe I'd have to go through Carver.

I would definitely prefer to do it through cannondale, but I didn't know what the next step would be.

By the way, I think I got lucky with the suspension parts. I found a couple of eBay auctions from a sled being parted out that seem to cover all of the parts I need, including the front pivot arm, billet link, and pivot arm bracket (or bell-crank, not sure what it is called since I've seen both names used) and all associated bolts, nuts, shafts, etc. Pretty much what I assume would have been included in those suspension kits. The parts came from a 2016 Phazer, but I checked the part numbers and they are all identical to the 2010 Phazer so I assume everything should fit.

Get the front arm from the newer one too. The mount pivot goes in is also wider. I can get Carvers valving from him no problem so if you want the shocks revalved I can do them.

 

[rnoonan]

Get the front arm from the newer one too. The mount pivot goes in is also wider.

Thanks a lot cannondale. I'm pretty sure I did get that front arm as well (I called it pivot arm bracket or bell-crank, since I didn't know what it was called). I see exactly what you mean about the mount for the link being wider to accommodate the wider billet link. I just got the parts delivered and put everything together to make sure things fit. Everything seems good. I do think I need to do something to fill in the extra space where the shock head connects to the link, since the billet one has more space than the old one had. Did people just use washers or something like that?

One thing I did notice is that the old link has a grease fitting, but the billet link does not. What did you guys do to lubricate the collars in there? Just add some grease or oil?

I can get Carvers valving from him no problem so if you want the shocks revalved I can do them.

Excellent! I definitely would like to do that. I'll send you a PM to exchange the details. Thank you.

 

[maim]

on ours, i pull the pin out every year or 2 and pack the needle bearings in it with a really good waterproof grease. thought about adding a grease fitting but it is lasting this way, so leaving it alone for now.