Gear and chain Failure!/Chaincase additive??

[YamaDom]

Had a bad day on the Sidewinder, First blew a belt (8jp had 800 miles on it) that broke my lower Panel right in front of the primary. (had a belly pan protector). Go home to grab another belt to continue on the ride. Turned up the tune cause I figured belly pan is busted anyway. Later that day I was squeezing the throttle pretty good and bang thought I blew another belt open the panel belt still good. Fast forward over the tow home (no pictures so it didn't really happen!) Took the chaincase apart and it turns out it broke the chain (ripped apart between the links). Also the top gear had a fair amount of play in it. Thankfully there was no other damage on the case. Are these chains common to break? Except for the play in the gear all else looks good. I'm not sure on the chain tension yet but haven't moved the tensioner adjust bolt yet so when I put it back together I will see if it was too tight or otherwise. The tensioner roller bolt was tight but I'm going to tack weld it while I have it apart.

I'm just waiting on the parts to come in and I'm debating on what oil to put back in. I realize this is poor design and may need to get a better bushing but I have another updated gear with holes in the gear and want something that may lube that bushing better.

Wonder if anyone has tried any of these combinations and put some good miles on the stock gear and bushing. Thinking of trying the following:

1) Stock Yam oil over the sight glass for sure. (overfilling with about 12-14 0z hope more oil to the top)
2) Klotz black Graphite chaincase oil. (Graphite makes sense to lube better)
3) Amsoil Chaincase oil (Good Quality)
4) Royal purple 75W90 (Thicker oil)

I like the idea to add 1-2 oz of Power up NNL-690G Gearcase Friction reducer to one of the options. (should not hurt I don't think?) Would a thicker oil be better at climbing to the top gear or thinner oil to get between the bushing and shaft be better? Any one else have a combination of oil they think would help let me know.

My Winder is a 17 xtx LE 2100 miles Hurricane 240-270-290 tune.

 

[fatchance]

Spectro sho snow full synth. Forget about it. Running hurricane 300 tune for thousands of miles. Chain case inspection reveals clean chain case every time.

 

[Big_Phil]

I have had good luck with using mercruiser high performance outdrive oil. Changed my stock top gear and chain at 8000 miles as preventative maintenance. They still look good. I always fill to over the sight glass as well.

Just an FYI, the chain was probably too loose if it snapped like that. These chains do stretch, and need to be adjusted periodically. These chains can handle over 500hp. We run 450 or so hp through a 13 wide viper chain w

 

[KnappAttack]

I like the Polaris chaincase oil. I used it in the day and has always been really good stuff and available anywhere.
I was running gear oil but hate the smell as it vents and warms up.

 

[ISLANDRACING]

YamaDom, On your 1-2-3-4 list,,,, when my my sled was brand new before it even hit the snow, I drained out #1 and poured in #2. KLOTZ!

 

[74Nitro]

You mentioned roller 'bolt'. I assume you realize there are two. Maybe the back one came out and went through chain and bottom gear?
I haven't seen a chain break like this on one of these sleds.

 

[jonlafon1]

14 oz of klotz. 1 oz of ER

 

[InRBigness]

We snapped a chain just like that on my sons 14 viper. His tri hub folded up landing off a road approach (not to big of one) and when the rails went through the track and stopped it dead.... the chain was the weakest link. No other damage in the chaincase.

 

[Sevey]

I have been using Amsoil chaincase lube. I also add 60ml of Lucas oil stabilizer. Good combo. The stabilizer keeps things coated during long breaks in the off season.
MS

 

[74Nitro]

I use John Deere 'HY-GARD' Transmission and Hydraulic Fluid. If it passes Deere's smell test, then that is good enough for me. Love the price too!