Good deal or run away?

[sledheadgeorge]

Hello TY world!
time for an update, i have no done any work on said Attak, just haven't had time. i have been taking little parts off it here and there for my other attak but i'm keeping it mostly together so i could fix it if i decided too. the engine put a connecting rod through and it damaged too upper and lower crankcase so i doubt that it will be fixable.
my other attak has been worked on more than rode this short winter season, it got cracks in both running board heaters. i was quoted $150-200 a piece too get them welded. i have since come up with a different fix, i bought 8 feet of 1 inch copper pipe and am strapping it up under the running boards instead of the heaters (pics too follow once the install is complete) I've been told by different people that it will work and it will keep cool just the same, and I've been told it wont work and will over heat. total for everything was $50 (CAN) for $50 if it doesnt work oh well, the worst that could happen is the light comes on and i have too shut her down for a few mins, if it happens too much i'll have too put the running board heaters on again. If anyone is real interested in how I am doing it i could start another thread and post pictures

I've bypassed a damaged heat exchanger with a washing machine hose and 2 clamps, while on a trip Early April on my Turbo, and never had the light come on. Mind you I have a rear tunnel cooler as well but that tells you something.

 

[Take A Hike]

I'd be worried the surface area difference between the pipe and your actual coolers would be too much for the machine to handle.

thats what i was worried about too, but when you think about it, the pipe is right up against the running board and that should transfer heat into the running board, if it doesn't work i'll put a T in and run 2 copper pips the length of the boards if that doesn't work i'll go back too the actual coolers. i figured that the coolant will be running through these pipe a little slower than it would run through the cooler, so I hope that'll help too

 

[Take A Hike]

I've bypassed a damaged heat exchanger with a washing machine hose and 2 clamps, while on a trip Early April on my Turbo, and never had the light come on. Mind you I have a rear tunnel cooler as well but that tells you something.

Yeah i'm thinking it should be alright, at least i hope

 

[karlburns]

I've bypassed a damaged heat exchanger with a washing machine hose and 2 clamps, while on a trip Early April on my Turbo, and never had the light come on. Mind you I have a rear tunnel cooler as well but that tells you something.

The rear coolers do help a ton though. I could run my Vector all day without the light coming on and my Attak would be flashing on and off all day if I didn't make sure to dip it in the snow. If your running a rear cooler, have scratchers down, and a decent snow base you'll probably be ok. If you run a T and double the pipe you should be good. I'd leave a gap between the two so they have as much surface to cool as possible. Just my thoughts though.

 

[Take A Hike]

If your running a rear cooler, have scratchers down

i don't have scratchers or a rear cooler, how hard is it too put in a rear cooler? its a completely stock 136 Attak

 

[sledheadgeorge]

i don't have scratchers or a rear cooler, how hard is it too put in a rear cooler? its a completely stock 136 Attak

You can order a rear cooler kit from Yami. Comes with the hoses etc. You might have to extend the tunnel protectors if you are running studs.

 

[Take A Hike]

You might have to extend the tunnel protectors if you are running studs.

previous owner took all the tunnel protectors out, running no studs and a 1.75 inch track