Handle Bar Grips held on with?

[RED]

Tried to get my grips of, didn't get them off, didn't want to wreck them, just got a new set for my fabcraft bars. Is there some sort of glue them back on with, Thanks

 

[LazyBastard]

There's a rivet, need to drill it out. Then its just a rubber grip that may be TIGHTLY slipped onto the bar. One of my grips got loose, I used blue automotive silicon to stick it back on. I don't expect it to ever come off glued on with silicon.

 

[BlgsRX-1mtn]

I used a realy small but long flat screw driver to work under the grip. There is what appears to be a two part epoxy resin holding the grips on. I know thats what the instuctions say to use to put them back on. any other type of glue (rubber cement, silicone, etc...) will just work free.

Edit; when you install the grips try to find a slowcure epoxy glue. I used blue rvt silicone and my grips on both sides are worked loose. I found the instructions after the fact at Hott Grips web site

 

[LazyBastard]

Rubber cement won't stick to metal, epoxy won't stick to rubber. Silicon sticks to both. They probably recommended epoxy so that it COULD be removed. Silicon will stay forever for the same reason why you can't bash a hole in a tire with a sledge hammer... its got flexibility.

 

[JDKRXW]

Remove the rivets.... then blow some compressed air into the bar end (you might have to drill a small hole in the end of the grip). One grip will pop right off. Then blow some more air in the open bar end, sealing around your blow gun with your hand, and the other grip will pop right off too. This will work even if the grips are glued on.

 

[BlgsRX-1mtn]

Here is the instructions straight from www.hotgrip.com

Installation Instructions for Snowmobiles
For information on ordering replacement parts click HERE
For Replacement Resistor information click HERE


Model SND and SNOE
(Applicable to model "SND" and "SNOE", and OEM models)

HOT GRIPS® Manufactured under one or more of the following Patents:

Canada 1,299,621

USA: 4,471,209
4,937,429
4,990,753

Read through entire instructions before starting installation. If you can not comfortably install this product, hire a professional mechanic to do it.

Hot Grips® can be installed on any snowmobile with 7/8" handlebars and a 12 volt electrical system capable of powering a headlight. It must have a thumb-throttle, not a twist throttle. Some electrical systems cannot handle the power requirements of heated grips and the headlights at the same time. If you have modified your sled's thumb-throttle to a motorcycle twist- throttle, then you must use our Street-Bike HOT GRIPS® kit instead. The difference with the Street-Bike is that the twist throttle grip's inside diameter is 1.000" diameter instead of .875" and the shape of the grips inboard end is different, adding more inboard rubber cushioning.

To pretest the grips, use a V.O.M. and check that each Hot Grip's® resistance measures approximately 2.4 ohms. You may temporarily wire them in series and test on a 12 volt car battery or battery charger of minimum 3 amps if you desire. Do not leave them unattended, and do not heat them up for more than a few minutes, because without the heat sink effect available from the metal handelbars, they may be damaged.

PREPARATION: Remove old grips and any remaining residue on handlebar with solvent. Roughen the handlebars with sandpaper or the edge of a steel file. This will create an aid in the epoxy bonding.

EPOXY INSTALLATION ONLY: Obtain a two-part slow-curing epoxy, such as Duro, Devcon, Borden, JB Weld, PoxyWeld, etc. Make sure it is not the quick-cure type, such as a 5-minute epoxy. We need the slow cure (6-8 hours +) because generally these epoxies are good for service up to 250 degrees F., whereas the 5-minute quick cure type epoxies are generally good for only 200 degrees. Do not use any other method to install. We have tested everything else , and they don't hold up under the stress and strain, torque loads and heat that is present. (Do not use silicone seal, crazy glue, gasket cement, weatherstrip adhesive, etc. None of them will hold reliably under severe riding conditions!)

Check that the grip will slide onto the handlebar without effort. It is designed to be a loose fit, to have the small gap filled with the epoxy. If it is not a loose fit, do not force the grip on. Your handlebar diameter isn't .875" and must be filed down until the grip fits on without excessive force. Some metric handlebars we have seen are up to .020" diameter oversize. Now drill the center-end of one of the grips with a small drill, to allow the air in the handlebars to escape as the grips are installed.

A full length pencil is helpful as a tool to spread the mixed epoxy inside the grip interior, and on the handlebar. Use a very light coat, and push the grip on 75% and remove, then redistribute the epoxy with the pencil and remove any excess quantity. Then install grip 100%, and again remove any excess epoxy. Be sure the grips do not interfere with any of the handlebar controls or the thumb-throttle lever. If there is interference, use a new single-edge razor blade to trim the grip as necessary, using care not to cut near the black lead wires that exit the grip. Allow to fully cure per the epoxy's instructions, or you may quicken the cure by temporarily wiring the grips in "series" per the diagram below, and wiring them to a 12v. car battery, or battery charger with a minimum of 3 amps charge rating. The epoxy will set up firm in about 30-45 minutes. Allow grips to cool off, and test epoxy for hardness where it oozed out of the grip. Do not twist the grip to test the epoxy as it is curing, as this will compromise and weaken it.

SWITCH AND RESISTOR: The switch can be located at any convenient practical location for your left hand that doesn't interfere with safe vehicle operation. (Note that the orientation of the wires in our wiring illustration to the "Hi-Lo" switch plate is correct because of the switch's internal action.) Drill a 13mm or 1/2" hole to install switch. The ceramic-resistor may be remotely mounted from the switch, using any length wires you need. Mount it securely on a metal area where there will be air moving around the resistor to dissipate heat. It will warm up during "low heat" operation. It is not in use during "off" or "high". The resistor should be secured with preferably plastic wire-ties. Squeezing out a "pad" of silicone sealant under the resistor is helpful in cushioning it against vibration and shock. Resistor may be located any distance from the switch. Use black wire left over from the grip's installation to connect and do not leave the resistor dangling by the wires or they'll fail.

WIRING: There is no polarity to the wires on each grip, i.e. no positive or negative. Follow the wiring illustration next page. A good ground is important so be sure to scrape the paint off the "ground connection" as even a layer of paint will create a problem. Ground should be to the engine or frame, not the handlebars, since some of them are rubber mounted and may reduce the good ground connection. Some machines use a wire or "common-wire ground" instead of "frame-ground". Check with your snowmobile dealer. The grips must be wired in "series", with one grip being connected to the other. One grip's remaining wire connects to ground, and the other to the switch. (See wiring illustration below.)

 

[welterracer]

I used a realy small but long flat screw driver to work under the grip. There is what appears to be a two part epoxy resin holding the grips on. I know thats what the instuctions say to use to put them back on. any other type of glue (rubber cement, silicone, etc...) will just work free.

Edit; when you install the grips try to find a slowcure epoxy glue. I used blue rvt silicone and my grips on both sides are worked loose. I found the instructions after the fact at Hott Grips web site

AS A MATTER OF FACT I DID THIS 2 DAYS AGO... WORKED GREAT!!

Just use emblem adhesive from a automotive store to glue back on and revit them back on!!

Just be carefull you you dont stab yourself in the finger like i didn using the screwdriver! LOL

 

[impalapower]

Or use the grinder and throw them away! Then glue on the next set!

 

[RED]

Thanks for the help, I did take the rivets out, didn't really try that hard to get them off yet.

 

[welterracer]

Remove the rivets.... then blow some compressed air into the bar end (you might have to drill a small hole in the end of the grip). One grip will pop right off. Then blow some more air in the open bar end, sealing around your blow gun with your hand, and the other grip will pop right off too. This will work even if the grips are glued on.

Ive been told to do this before... BUT WOULDNT WORK ON MY SLED.. THE GRIPS WERE SERIOUSLY GLUED ON THERE.. HAD TO USE A SCREW DRIVER TO SEPARATE THE GRIP FROM THE BARS.. WASNT EASY!!

 

[grapeape]

So far I have tried 8 different types of epoxy, and all have failed. Was pissed off, and tried super glue. Result, I did not break loose any grip on both of the sleds last year, a Big relief

 

[hottshot]

Year before last I used a glue from "Scott" and have not had a problem yet