mr rxl
Veteran
After 2 years of frustration with my 07 Attak warmers and 1 year of reading about everyones problems and solutions, I decided to tackle the problem.
The Problem:
The problem with the factory warmers is not the warmers themself, but the power being supplied to them. The power is being supplied in a 12 volt pulse from the ECM and not a constant 12 volt. This does not allow the warmers to saturate with heat and stay warm. The problem is made worse by the pulse being turned off when the RPM drop below 4000 RPM. The warmer adjuster just changes the width (lenght of time the 12 volts is supplied) of the pulse to warmers.
The Solution:
Supply a constant 12 volts to the warmers. All warmers are designed in such a way that it takes about 1 minute of constant 12 volts to heat up. The factory warmers are that way. When a constant 12 volts is supplied to our factory 8 ohm warmers (in parallel), they work perfect.
How to fix it:
I am designing a plug and play harness that will supply switched (only on when machine is running) constant 12 volt power to the warmers. It will use the factory fused accessory power. There will be a dial to adjust the temperature of the warmers (same as they use to do it). The warmers will not be supplied by the ECM any more. The factory switch will still control everything it use to control but the warmers.
Proof:
I have done this to my new Apex. The current draw from the factory handlebar warmers is 3.4 amps. The warmers feel they way your old snomobiles warmers felt. You can safely leave them on high, but you won't need to.
Problems:
The accessory circuit will be near its limit with the handlebar warmers on. There may be enough room left for a heated visor ( I will check that). In order to use the accessory plug for anything else you will have to turn off the warmers or you will risk blowing the fuse.
A small hole will have to be drilled beside the accessory plug to mount the dial for the warmers.
Next Step:
I will be testing the kit this weekend and will post results. I am just waiting for some pricing on a couple of needed components, but should be able to sell the kit for less that $50.00. I will post pictures and back-up data next week. Installation will take less than half an hour and will not take any tools that the average person doesn't have. No cutting!
Who wants one?
The Problem:
The problem with the factory warmers is not the warmers themself, but the power being supplied to them. The power is being supplied in a 12 volt pulse from the ECM and not a constant 12 volt. This does not allow the warmers to saturate with heat and stay warm. The problem is made worse by the pulse being turned off when the RPM drop below 4000 RPM. The warmer adjuster just changes the width (lenght of time the 12 volts is supplied) of the pulse to warmers.
The Solution:
Supply a constant 12 volts to the warmers. All warmers are designed in such a way that it takes about 1 minute of constant 12 volts to heat up. The factory warmers are that way. When a constant 12 volts is supplied to our factory 8 ohm warmers (in parallel), they work perfect.
How to fix it:
I am designing a plug and play harness that will supply switched (only on when machine is running) constant 12 volt power to the warmers. It will use the factory fused accessory power. There will be a dial to adjust the temperature of the warmers (same as they use to do it). The warmers will not be supplied by the ECM any more. The factory switch will still control everything it use to control but the warmers.
Proof:
I have done this to my new Apex. The current draw from the factory handlebar warmers is 3.4 amps. The warmers feel they way your old snomobiles warmers felt. You can safely leave them on high, but you won't need to.
Problems:
The accessory circuit will be near its limit with the handlebar warmers on. There may be enough room left for a heated visor ( I will check that). In order to use the accessory plug for anything else you will have to turn off the warmers or you will risk blowing the fuse.
A small hole will have to be drilled beside the accessory plug to mount the dial for the warmers.
Next Step:
I will be testing the kit this weekend and will post results. I am just waiting for some pricing on a couple of needed components, but should be able to sell the kit for less that $50.00. I will post pictures and back-up data next week. Installation will take less than half an hour and will not take any tools that the average person doesn't have. No cutting!
Who wants one?
Vector1
Expert
If a heated shield will still work, I may take 2.
lucky_7
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Bring it on!!!!
Crewchief47
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2006
- Messages
- 2,830
- Location
- McGregor, ON Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2008 Nytro MTX 45th
Do you have a solution for the error code problem from unplugging the warmers from the factory circuit? And you may want to contact MrSled about selling stuff on his forum. webmaster@totallyamaha.com
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
If it works I'm in...keep us informed.
Your going to want to Pm Mr sled about selling these
skyboz
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Very interesting.............
mr rxl
Veteran
When I posted the information, I was trying to help people with the same problem. This is not about making money, it was about solving a problem and offering people a solution.
Crewchief47, do you expect someone to buy the conectors, wires, potentiometer, assemble them and mail it to people for free? And yes, I have a solution for the error code.
If the moderators feel what I posted is out of line, let me know.
Crewchief47, do you expect someone to buy the conectors, wires, potentiometer, assemble them and mail it to people for free? And yes, I have a solution for the error code.
If the moderators feel what I posted is out of line, let me know.
mr rxl
Veteran
Does anyone have any information on who supplies connectors to Yamaha. The are so many suppliers out there that it is like lookng for a needle in a hay stack.
I hard wired my sled, but it would be nice to have factory connectors to make it easier for anyone to install.
I hard wired my sled, but it would be nice to have factory connectors to make it easier for anyone to install.
actionjack
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2005
- Messages
- 2,511
- Location
- Westminster, Maryland
- Website
- www.inspectorjack.com
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 SideWinder LTX-LE
Well I know I had to change my accessory fuse from 2.5 to 5a to keep my heated shield AND GPS going. Even then I always kept some 5a fuses with me.
mbw919
Pro
mr rxl said:
I don't know who supplies Yamaha's connectors, but I got some connectors for my Honda motorcycle at the link below. Take a look and see if they have anything that looks like a match:
http://www.electricalconnection.com/ele ... itachi.htm
Budweiser
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Interesting. What do the other tech people think of this? Is he correct in the "pulse" theory? Is it basically wiring from the acessory wires to a dial to the warmers? I have a 06 Attak that has the updated bars..and they work but not like my 2000SXR.
If this is why it works, why can't you do the same from the battery? Before anyone crushes me, I freely admit to not knowing how this stuff works. Be gentle!
If this is why it works, why can't you do the same from the battery? Before anyone crushes me, I freely admit to not knowing how this stuff works. Be gentle!
gormleyflyer2002
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
nice work and good luck. hope the mods leave this alone till you can back up your testing results.
NyTrOMaNIaC
TY 4 Stroke Master
Very Interested as well ! 
Just out of curiosity, why can't we still use the factory switch to adjust and control the heat to the warmers if you are basically only changing the source/type of power ? I'm assuming the error code will appear and possibly cause problems down the road....
Nice work, please keep us updated
Just out of curiosity, why can't we still use the factory switch to adjust and control the heat to the warmers if you are basically only changing the source/type of power ? I'm assuming the error code will appear and possibly cause problems down the road.... Nice work, please keep us updated
Your heart is in the right place and you were great right up until you asked for a sale. At that time you became no different than any of the paying advertisers who are also helping people solve problems by designing and putting together paid solutions for those problems.mr rxl said:When I posted the information, I was trying to help people with the same problem. This is not about making money, it was about solving a problem and offering people a solution.
Crewchief47, do you expect someone to buy the conectors, wires, potentiometer, assemble them and mail it to people for free? And yes, I have a solution for the error code.
If the moderators feel what I posted is out of line, let me know.
I hope the explanation makes sense.
