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Handlebar Warmer problem solved!

Seems to me he's not trying to earn a living from it, just trying to recoup his costs. Seems quite different than say Ulmer or Rich Motorsports trying to drive a whole business. Just don't offer any for sale.....any more. Wink wink.
 

The reason you can not use the current handwarmer switch is because it is an input to the ECM.
You could connect directly to the battery. The only problem is it wouldn't be switched.( if you forgot your hand warmers on it would kill the battery)
I am connecting a hi/low switch on my sled because the dial (potentiometer) was $80.00.
I will post more info later tonight.
 
Budweiser said:
Interesting. What do the other tech people think of this? Is he correct in the "pulse" theory? Is it basically wiring from the acessory wires to a dial to the warmers? I have a 06 Attak that has the updated bars..and they work but not like my 2000SXR.

If this is why it works, why can't you do the same from the battery? Before anyone crushes me, I freely admit to not knowing how this stuff works. Be gentle!
Click to expand...

Yes, he's correct that the warmers are fed a pulsed DC constant voltage. The computer varies the pulse duration according to the heat setting chosen by the operator via the handlebar rocker switch. He is proposing to feed the warmers with a variable voltage that is not pulsed. The voltage would be varied by a rheostat, which is a variable resistor. The rheostat will create heat any time it is not turned up to its wide open setting. This is inefficient, but it works. A pulsed signal should accomplish the same thing if the pulse width approaches 100% duty cycle, and it would not create heat where it isn't wanted. It would be interesting to find out what the pulse duration is when the warmers are at the maximum setting. Anyone got an oscilloscope?
 
RESISTOR,VARIABLE
8CR-87283-00-00 1 $17.99


KNOB,VAR.RESISTOR
8AB-87284-00-00 1 $6.03

There are the costs from the old smoker Venture hand warmer dial and resistor from Ports site. It may be easier just to post instructions and suppliers, kinda like the other thread SS linked to above.
 
Sceptical crewchief
The reason I have not posted instruction on this was, I have only worked on this for one evening. I read what seems like 100 pages on theories. Some of the people that posted information in the Nytro thread said they are engineers and I have verified some of the information. There were alot of knowlegeable people posting great information.
My goal was to make a fool proof plug and play solution so the average joe could easily install it.
 
mr rxl said:
Sceptical crewchief
The reason I have not posted instruction on this was, I have only worked on this for one evening. I read what seems like 100 pages on theories. Some of the people that posted information in the Nytro thread said they are engineers and I have verified their information. There were alot of knowlegeable people posting information without a solution.
My goal was to make a fool proof plug and play solution so the average joe could easily install it.
Click to expand...

No solution? A few of us posted solutions. Mines even in the FAQ section complete with diagrams and instructions.

You state you verified information in that thread. Care to elaborate how?
 
Not sceptical but we as mods can't say OK to you and no to everyone else, makes it hard to keep the system in check. So, to make it easier for us, EVERYONE gets the same No. Sorry, that's just the way it is. And I just sourced you a pretty cheap resistor that anybody here can order from their Yamaha dealer or Port.

There are at least two different 'solutions' in that thread for guys to try.
 
The solution works perfectly!
I connected everything tonight and ran the sled for 15 minutes. ( real world testing will follow).
The results:
After 1 minute the bars are so warm you can barely hold onto them with bare hands.
Here is what I did:

1) I removed the cowl panel between the bars and the guages.

2) Found the 2 plugs from each warmer and unpluged them from the ECM.

3) I cut the plugs off the warmer side and left 1 inch of wire.

4) I soldered 8 ohm resisters to each plug and plugged them back into the ECM.( This will make the ECM think the 8 ohm warmers are still connected)

5) I tapped 2 wires into the 12 volt accessory plug.

6) I connected the 2 wires to the wires from the warmers in parallel. ( 12 volts to both warmers at the same time)

I didn't purchase the variable resistor from the local Yamaha dealer today. ( He wanted $80.00 for it) I am going to try Crewchiefs supplier.
I may just make it a hi/low switch. I am going to mount the switch just to the left of the hi/low headlight switch.
I will post pictures shortly

Mr.RXL
 
Just a word to the wise, when I was messing around with this stuff. I found that the PWM controler that I got from Hot Grips, doesn't actually turn completely off. There is some leak at the lowest setting, not suprised as the internal circuit would draw power to contol the pulse, just figured there would be a hard disconect inside the dial. Knowing this it would be hooked to a relay switched on from the ignition. My other thought is to us the RSI grids, having one circuit tied to the sleds electronics, the other circuit tied to a switched fused lead to the battery. This way, if needed you could flip the switch for a boost. Haven't looked further into this as time and weather are not permitting real testing.

As for no solution, there were a few within that topic. Yes there are a few unfinished ideas, however, with out ride time I don't think you can say "This is it" even the stockers feel decent at idel in the garage, and we all know how well they work out on the trail at 80 MPH.
 
Sorry Bluballer. I didn't see your solution in the FAQ. I did see some of your posts in the Nytro section. I verified the output of the occilating voltage from the ECM to the warmers. That is the problem.
If anyone wants to test my solution without cutting anything or risk hurting their ECM, connect a 12 volt battery to your hand warmers ( unplugged from the ECM) in parrallel( same as the factory) and feel the results.
Parallel basically means you are suppling the same 12 volts to both grips at the same time.
 
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