gucciboy
Extreme
I am in the process of installing a powderlites GT25 kit and was looking for info on header bolt torque. I dont know about you guys but my fat fingers made the install a pain in the #*$&@ & only the 2 outside bolts are accessable with a torque wrench (socket). What are people doing for the other bolts?
Also, my header (used) had some hi-temp red silicone on the flange. Is this necessary or just to hold the gasket on until you get the bolts started?
Also, my header (used) had some hi-temp red silicone on the flange. Is this necessary or just to hold the gasket on until you get the bolts started?
snowy1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I found it much easier to put the header on with the head removed, then you can tighten all the bolts real good, I installed stainless studs in and used 12 point stainless nuts, and tightened them as tight as I could with out stripping anything, been on with no problems over a year now, when I took the motor apart to replace rings this summer I left the header on, I just used the stock gasket dry seems to work good if everything is tight, another thing I did is had the flange machined most of them seem to be warped alittle, that helped as well.
I just finished that part of the install too and you're right what a PITA. I can see why guys don't want to be swithching headers all that often. I got the torque wrench on 3 of the eight bolts. The others I just guesstimated by feel. Hopefully it's all good. I gusseted the crap out of header and ceramic coated it in hopes that it will last at least this season. Keeping my fingers crossed.
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gucciboy
Extreme
I was hoping to keep the head on. Rather not have to tear it down just to put the header on. Thanks for the info.
Travis Moore
Expert
I'd just snug it up if it were me, and maybe check the tightness after a few heat cycles. Always worked for me on exhaust parts.
