Heelclicker and primary spring ?

[RobX-1]

Would I have to shim the primary spring if I wanted to run the stock spring with the Heelclicker weights?

Also, anyone know where I can get the gray Heelclicker spring? Tried to call SuperTorquer but no answer. I like how their website states to call one of the dealers due to high volmune of calls. More like, we don't answer our phones so you will have better luck calling a dealer or distributor of Heelclickers. :lol:

 

[Srxspec]

PM me before tomorrow afternoon and I can get you a spring sent out.

 

[RobX-1]

Thanks Srxspec...I just sent you a PM. Sh!t, I just remembered I didn't leave a number or contact info. Okay, there will be two now. 8)

 

[Otis RX]

Rob............. I've had very good luck running yamaha springs with my heelclickers in my 03 shorty. I used the white one that came with the kit once. Then went out a bought various Yamaha springs. The white one is now gray from the dust!
OTIS RX

 

[Otis RX]

No you don't have to shim it!

 

[1Gunner]

I've replaced the HC primary "gorilla" spring with the stock red primary and 2 shims. When I did this first without the shims I only saw 9800 RPM.

Initially with the 2 shims and the secondary untouched it would only buzz 10200. Today I tightened the secondary to 80 deg from 60 and put on 100 miles. It now engages at a decent 4k and buzzes 10500RPM.

I think I like it!!!! :shock:
Very nice back shift, low(er) engagement, and the ideal RPM at full shift.......all while using the more aggresive HC weights... :roll:

I havn't done a top end speed test yet to see if it can match the 118mph gps it did with the initial HC weight spring combo...

 

[spray25]

Now I could get excited about this!! Getting rid of those #$&@# HC springs sounds good to me!!

Otis, what is your engagement and what spring and shim combo are you using? What changes did you make to your weights when you went from the HC spring to the stock one?


1Gunner, see questions above and also I didn't knwo Yammie made a red primary spring. Am I missing something?

 

[1Gunner]

1Gunner, see questions above and also I didn't knwo Yammie made a red primary spring. Am I missing something?

Sorry spray25, I was also tuning my 01 AC Tcat at the time and confused the two "stock primary springs" my bad.

irregardless, I'm using the stock 03 RX-1 primary spring with my HC weights and like the setup better than with the HC primary spring.

 

[RobX-1]

Igunner, did you get lucky and not have any problems with the shoulder of the weight making contact with the removable sheave? I had to take a little off for cleareance. On the bright side, I now have a very nice Dremel tool. 8)

I also see you have several washers on the heel. I had 5.4 in it but just recently reduced to 3.4 and with 3.3 in tip, seems to be running very nice.

 

[1Gunner]

Robx-1... I guess I got lucky with my 40-10 HC kit as it's got 2500 miles on without incident or dremel action.

I've retained the heel 5.3g / tip 3.4g setup, as it seems to work.
What difference did reducing the heel weight have for you?

 

[RobX-1]

Igunner, maybe the 40-10 HC kit didn't have the problem with the weights hitting the moveable sleave as did the 92-11Y.

When I had 5.4 in heel and 3.3 in tip, it would jump straight to 10000 and would stay there as I progressed through the powerband. However, it seemed to hit a wall there and I could not get it to go past 10000. MPH also seemed to hit a wall. Now with 3.4 in heel and 3.3 in tip, RPM behavior is the same but at 10500. MPH are also higher but haven't had a chance to make some WOT runs. I didn't get to do much testing the last time out so I need more saddle time with this setup to give more details. Also, Srxspec hooked me up with a gray HC spring so I am going to give it a try too.

 

[RobX-1]

1gunner, I was just reading over all my notes I had gathered from this site concerning the HC kits and I think I am going to wrong way. Here, I am adding weight cause I wasn't reving past 10000 and now may be over-reving. It sure does seem to have more acceleration as it progresses through the power band with the weight I am currently running. Is it still ideal to clutch for 9800 RPM out of the hole and then slowly climb to 10200 regardless of the clutch kit used?

 

[1Gunner]

Is it still ideal to clutch for 9800 RPM out of the hole and then slowly climb to 10200 regardless of the clutch kit used?

Two schools of thought on clutching there Rob.
The one you mention essentially allows the secondary to overshift at WOT, holding the engine at a lower RPM..... Kind of like putting a 4 spd car at WOT from 1st gear to 3rd or 4th and then allowing the engine torque to do the work pulling the RPM higher. It works better on a "broad power band" 4 stroke for sure, than a peaky 2 stroke.

The other school is to clutch to your peak HP, and then allow the secondary to continually shift to maintian it, while accelerating at WOT.

To be honest, I'm not sure which is best. It depends on the application, no backshift top speed radar running, or spirited trail running where backshifting is important.

 

[RobX-1]

Your last comment pretty much sums up how the sled runs currently with 3.4 in heel and 3.3 in tip. It jumps straigth to 10500 whereas it would only go to 10000 with 5.4 in heel even at WOT. Now, it hits 10500 and stays there as it progresses through the power band. Backshift is very close to stock as I still notice I do not use my brake often as I did with stock clutching.

What RPMs are you seeing with your weight combo? You also mentioned you had to shim the stock spring to achieve more than 9800 RPMs. Were these just stock shims from Yamaha? Just wanted to know where I could get some if need be. Hopefully, I can get out on our lake before this weekend and do some more testing. Will be riding up in Gaylord this weekend with a bunch of Ski Doo buds and want to make a very impressive statement since I ran all stock last year. Since then, I've added longer links, 11mm sway bar, 2.1 front springs, 9818 track, 144 1.325" Mega bites, dropped a tooth on top gear (I believe with my reverse kit, I am running 23/39), HC clutch kit, silver spring in secondary wrapped to 80 degrees, ECP filter kit, and Simmons skis. I have yet to install the HC-X secondary clutch since I want to dial in the primary first. Now that I think about it, is that such a good idea :idea: :?: I mean, will the secondary kit cause me to have to adjust the primary?

 

[1Gunner]

With stock spring, 2 shims, and stock secondary wrapped to 80 deg, I'm seeing the sled upshifting at 10200-10300. I havn't tested on the lake yet, but have railway bed tested. The shims are stock yamaha items. It pulls much harder, or seems to, with the sled upshifting at those RPMs, rather than the 9800 RPM. It wasn't the shims that got my shift RPM up, it was increasing the secondary wrap 20 deg. Adding the shims helped increase the overall spring rate slightly, and the initial engagement as well.

With the HUGE HC spring and the secondary at 60deg it would flash 10500 and hold through the upshift. Best GPS speed was 118mph. I hated the high RPM engagement...

If I were you, I'd be setting your "primary and secondary package" up as a unit. Everytime you throw another performance variable at it, you tend to move back a step. Just my thoughts.