Help with reverse.....

[snowhite]

Sounds good guys' ,like I said I might have missed something earlier so I will go through it way better and let you know what I found! Thanks.

 

[Mike P]

Sounds good guys' ,like I said I might have missed something earlier so I will go through it way better and let you know what I found! Thanks.

If I am reading the schematic correctly you should have see 12vdc on the org/yel when not in reverse. I'm not sure how the ECU handles the shifting but it looks like both org/yel and yel/org are powered (12vdc) and the ECU grounds the actuator with respect to forward or reverse via shifting relays. I would start by disconnecting the wire harness from the actuator. Next turn key on but do not start engine, test for 12vdc on both wires. Next I would start engine and test again. If no power is found at the harness then work your way back to the shift fuse until you find 12vdc. The red/brn, load side of the shift fuse should have 12vdc all the time. All measurements should be taken with the negative probe connected to battery ground. https://ty4stroke.com/threads/anyone-have-a-legable-wire-schematic.141871/#post-1297360

 

[TURBLUE]

So I know this is a old post but I’m struggling to figure out what’s going with my reverse. It was working fine then nothing , no beep , no light not trying to shift.

I’ve check with a multimeter the push button down to the controls connector and that’s fine. The ground is common to the chassis on the plug to the actual switch. The fuse is good. There is no voltage to either wire to the reverse actuator. The forward and reverse relays have power but they are not getting the signal to change state.

Does the position switch behind the reverse actuator have to be reading a certain state to allow it to change?

Does the sled need to be running to test the voltage to the actuator?

 

[cannondale27]

Pretty sure the position switch reads if it’s in reverse. Say you shut it off while in reverse. At startup it would go back in forward because the sensor senses it’s in reverse. Yes sled needs to be running to test actuator

 

[snowhite]

It’s more than likely the drive motor, if you notice that with the motor motor running and you press the reverse switch, if you noticed the headlight dims it’s the drive motor motor jammed up.You can take the motor apart and check the armature which is probably green at the brushes.,or replace the motor

 

[snowhite]

Sorry you can clean the armature and brushes with extra fine steel wool

 

[TURBLUE]

Well with the plug off the drive motor I’m not getting any voltage at the plug with the sled running. Should be I would thing when the button is pressed.

 

[cannondale27]

Well with the plug off the drive motor I’m not getting any voltage at the plug with the sled running. Should be I would thing when the button is pressed.

Yes

 

[cannondale27]

Fuse?

 

[TURBLUE]

Fuse is good. I pulled the relays and there is voltage there on the base but It doesn’t get the signal when the button is pushed. It’s weird.

 

[TURBLUE]

It’s got to be something simple I’m missing.

 

[farmerjack]

I have a 2009 A/C Z1 with nearly identical reverse actuator that had stopped working. I removed the actuator and pulled the cover off the drive motor for the actuator. All was fine under the motor cover. Pulled the commutator and worm shaft out of the actuator. Upon on pulling it out it was obvious what the issue was. The commutator was black with residue from the brushes. Cleaned the commutator up with scotch brite after removing the residue. Cleaned the end of the brushes and put it back together.
Reverse works just fine now. All the residue was not allowing current to rotate the actuator motor.
Guess it is something that needs to be addressed every other year, at least on the A/C, when I change gear case oil to keep reverse working.
Simple fix but not really something you would expect to routinely have to do.
I believe having the dealer repair with a new reverse actuator when the CCU pops up is a costly way to go when it can just be cleaned and reinstalled.
Alternative is to replace actuator with the Dorman window actuator for around $50 vs $200 from Yamaha dealer.

 

[TURBLUE]

Thanks for the replies. Problem is I’m not even getting voltage to the plug to drive the actuator. I have the actuator unplugged and have a volt meter on the plug. I’ll have to prove the wiring to the ecu from the switch and from the ecu to the relay bases.

 

[TURBLUE]

So you guys were all right. It is the actuator. I read the service manual on how to trouble shoot the plug going to the actuator. Says with your voltmeter across the wires you will see a pulse of voltage. And yes it did. I totally misunderstood what those wires should see for voltage. Looked at the actuator and at the bottom it’s cracked out causing the rotor to drop and lock up.

I took it apart and got the rotor up and left it off and rotates now. Unfortunately I’m guessing no repair on this one.

 

[Yamasledder]

So you guys were all right. It is the actuator. I read the service manual on how to trouble shoot the plug going to the actuator. Says with your voltmeter across the wires you will see a pulse of voltage. And yes it did. I totally misunderstood what those wires should see for voltage. Looked at the actuator and at the bottom it’s cracked out causing the rotor to drop and lock up.

I took it apart and got the rotor up and left it off and rotates now. Unfortunately I’m guessing no repair on this one.
View attachment 159305

Mine did exactly the same thing as in your picture. Over time, moisture gets in the housing where the big plastic gear is and freezes it. Then you hit the reverse button and when the big plastic gear can't turn from being frozen, the worm gear forces the bottom out of the housing. Sorry to say you're looking at a new actuator.