yamamarc
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yamamarc
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oh man, what a disaster if it takes so much reaching to fix a hose...lookslike the machine has to be almost ripped down completely...what's the fix to avoid this? A BOP tunnel protector? Do I got this right?
oh man, what a disaster if it takes so much reaching to fix a hose...lookslike the machine has to be almost ripped down completely...what's the fix to avoid this? A BOP tunnel protector? Do I got this right?
https://www.barnofparts.com/coolant-hose-saver
If you already have the yamaha tunnel protectors installed then yes put the bop savers on!
Or like NYturbo mentioned stm full length tunnel protectors or just the front stm protectors if you have the yamaha stock one already installed on rear
Sevey
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Thanks for posting. I run those also. Could you wedge a small thin piece of rubber at the back of the guard where it rests on the exchanger? That would give it a touch of space and keep the two aluminum surfaces from contacting.
MS
RAMSOMAIR
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Precisely! I'm going to contact cement a thin strip of EDPM rubber inside the full length.
fullshift
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If we added a flat washer to the bolt between the tunnel and hose protector would that be enough clearance?
RAMSOMAIR
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BINGO!If we added a flat washer to the bolt between the tunnel and hose protector would that be enough clearance?


SidewinderConvert
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I am in a similar boat, caught a coolant leak while doing spring maintenance and traced it back to a nick in the hose and a loose fitting...
I am putting a BOP order together today.

I am putting a BOP order together today.
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yamamarc
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Are you going to replace the hose also?I am in a similar boat, caught a coolant leak while doing spring maintenance and traced it back to a nick in the hose and a loose fitting...
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I am putting a BOP order together today.


1nc 2000
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Tearing a sled down to fix that I would also plate the top of the tunnel at the same time.
This will help prevent it from happening again fron tunnel flex. Keeps the cooler tubes lined up.
This will help prevent it from happening again fron tunnel flex. Keeps the cooler tubes lined up.


SidewinderConvert
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Are you going to replace the hose also?
I am uncertain if it is only cosmetic or actually leaking right there. I ran the motor and heated everything up a few times to pressurize the system today and everything appears to be holding together. No moisture at all after tightening the hose clamps.
At the same time if that blows I will be stuck in the middle of the national forest on the wrong side of a tow rope...
yamamarc
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take a close look at the gouge that hose is very thin.I am uncertain if it is only cosmetic or actually leaking right there. I ran the motor and heated everything up a few times to pressurize the system today and everything appears to be holding together. No moisture at all after tightening the hose clamps.
At the same time if that blows I will be stuck in the middle of the national forest on the wrong side of a tow rope...
In your pic it looks wet around the gouge
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SidewinderConvert
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take a close look at the gouge that hose is very thin.
In your pic it looks wet around the gouge
It was wet there when I took that picture. However, I wiped it off with some paper towel and after two thermal cycles it was still dry. I am not sure how it was actually leaking to get wet around it like that and stop now. In all likely-hood as cabin fever (due to the virus) sets in I will be doing that coolant hose and every other thing that can be done on the sled.
I do have coolant hose savers and some other stuff on the way from BOP though.
4strokes
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mine was cut from the inside due to the nipples getting out of alignment. I would consider taking and inch out of the rear exhanger so the nipple is back and ich and reweld, allowing some flex. then a cover


SidewinderConvert
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Has anybody seen if it is possible to retrofit the metal braid hose they are using on the 2021 sleds onto our older models?
4strokes
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just did mine a month ago and there was no updated part, but I bet when it is available it will be
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