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Highest Speeds on Sidewinder/Thundercat


Had an opportunity to wot on trail 8 today, south where it begins going N on H53, couple of good mile long straights groomed the width of the road (safe). Trail, groomed hard pack, about 20* today. 118 GPS, solid 125 on the Dream-meter. Shout out to NOS-PRO for working his magic on my set-up.
 
Had an opportunity to wot on trail 8 today, south where it begins going N on H53, couple of good mile long straights groomed the width of the road (safe). Trail, groomed hard pack, about 20* today. 118 GPS, solid 125 on the Dream-meter. Shout out to NOS-PRO for working his magic on my set-up.
Woooohooooo....good job!! If these numbers are with a stock machine, very impressive. Careful.....these high speeds can be addicting.
 
Had an opportunity to wot on trail 8 today, south where it begins going N on H53, couple of good mile long straights groomed the width of the road (safe). Trail, groomed hard pack, about 20* today. 118 GPS, solid 125 on the Dream-meter. Shout out to NOS-PRO for working his magic on my set-up.
Congratulations, that's a strong contender. Plenty enough to give Boosts & comp850's a good heartache. Lol.
 
My 118 GPS run is with a Precision Stage 2, Bov and Thunder Products Clutching. So not stock, a sleeper. Still getting it sorted out.
 
These 998s are stupid fast compared to any other sled out there especially our ones that are tuned. I have never held mine wide open long enough to completely find its top end but I have seen 123 mph on the GPS recall and thats with a 141 x 1 3/4" track!
I have never been on a sled that so effortlessly reaches, and that can cruise at and exceed 100mph .
 
Opinions will vary here, but I've seen 128 speedo with stock gears. A little trick is to mark your sheaves with a felt sharpie. You can see how high it shifts by how much the belt cleans the mark. Stock primary, the belt should clean all but 1/8th of an inch from the top. Secondary is a little easier to shift fully and will clean the whole sheave.

In the attached pic, I had marked a line across the whole sheave. The belt cleaned it all.
I should probably give this a try. Never even bothered.
Problem is...if it came up short (longer line than a 1/16, I wouldn't know how to correct it?!?!
 
I should probably give this a try. Never even bothered.
Problem is...if it came up short (longer line than a 1/16, I wouldn't know how to correct it?!?!

The quickest way to achieve full shift out is to add more power. May I suggest the TD GAP big turbo kit with complete engine build and stage 6 cams. At 550 hp, you should have no issues seeing full shift out with stock gears!! Lol

Doc.....by reading your posts, I can tell your gonna end up there anyway. Save yourself some strife, and just pull the trigger and do it!!! Lol

Everyone....chime in and let's show our support:

Doc Harley
Doc Harley
Doc Harley
Doc Harley
 
I should probably give this a try. Never even bothered.
Problem is...if it came up short (longer line than a 1/16, I wouldn't know how to correct it?!?!
Well sometimes you can move your weight around on adjustable clutch weights. Change springs, machine your primary for more OD, machine helix slightly so secondary can shift out/deeper. Different clutching components can achieve more OD then others. I always black out my primary top inside sheave after ANY clutch changes to see if the clutch is still shifting fully out into OD.
Give you a example.
. 2024 Catalyst 600.. Yea I know its a little sled but they all use the same clutches to propel the sled so to speak. Stock clutching would bring the belt up to maybe 1/2" to top of sheave. YEA that's terrible clutching.. Got rid the monster helix angle and the super stiff secondary spring and added heavy hitters (loaded until the sled RPM starting dropping). Sled now pulls a dayco XTX 5020 belt up within a 1/16. The stock Cat belt is within 1/8" from top of secondary. Just those few changes changed the OD AND MPH by a lot. Getting the sled slightly into OD(overdrive) . ALSO> different belts/length and belt compositions can help getting belt "up" into OD better. Lots of little changes can help. You just got to put the time in and TEST TEST..
 
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The quickest way to achieve full shift out is to add more power. May I suggest the TD GAP big turbo kit with complete engine build and stage 6 cams. At 550 hp, you should have no issues seeing full shift out with stock gears!! Lol

Doc.....by reading your posts, I can tell your gonna end up there anyway. Save yourself some strife, and just pull the trigger and do it!!! Lol

Everyone....chime in and let's show our support:

Doc Harley
Doc Harley
Doc Harley
Doc Harley
Right on....my goal is pretty simple. No where near your abilities. I'm patiently waiting for the trails to open up in Wis. That way I can make a couple lake passes, satisfy that need, do some 1000ft runs, and spend the rest of the day bar hopping & making friends. Lol.
Honestly, the reason I ask, and ask, and ask, is to understand the why?!?! Why doesn't something work as it should, etc.
I've never put out this kind of effort into building a sled.
Just got back from a short run and tore my sled apart, just to see if anything broke, came loose, etc. Lol.
The bottom line, with the season being so hard on us all, I find working on my sled to be quite satisfying.
 
Well sometimes you can move your weight around on adjustable clutch weights. Change springs, machine your primary for more OD, machine helix slightly so secondary can shift out/deeper. Different clutching components can achieve more OD then others. I always black out my primary top inside sheave after ANY clutch changes to see if the clutch is still shifting fully out into OD.
Give you a example.
. 2024 Catalyst 600.. Yea I know its a little sled but they all use the same clutches to propel the sled so to speak. Stock clutching would bring the belt up to maybe 1/2" to top of sheave. YEA that's terrible clutching.. Got rid the monster helix angle and the super stiff secondary spring and added heavy hitters (loaded until the sled RPM starting dropping). Sled now pulls a dayco XTX 5020 belt up within a 1/16. The stock Cat belt is within 1/8" from top of secondary. Just those few changes changed the OD AND MPH by a lot. Getting the sled slightly into OD(overdrive) . ALSO> different belts/length and belt components can help getting belt "up" into OD better. Lots of little changes can help. You just got to put the time in and TEST TEST..
That's an awesome response, Jon. I just left a long winded response to fleecer, so I'll spare you! Hahaha.
But this is exactly what I'm talking about. Just having the problem show itself, and being able to solve it. Crazy cool.
I still have that redline belt, that others swear by. I want to make a couple passes switch belts, just to see what happens.
I'm sure it's the difference dimensionally that allows it to get closer to o.d. idk???
 


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