hole in front heat exchanger

Travis Kanaval

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2006 Yamaha Apex
So I just bought my first snowmobile a 2006 Yamaha apex rtx with 7200 miles on it. When I bought it I knew the track was in rough shape the track had around 144 picks in it. So the first time we got snow was this week and I took the sled out for just a quick rip around and within the first 10 min of my first ride I put a pic through the front heat exchanger. Now that's some luck. Once the low coolant light came on and the temp light I pretty much shut it right down. Then got towed to the trailer and went to start it up to load up and it started then shut right off twice I'm hoping there is a safety switch when the coolant is low and won't let the sled run?????? Because it started then shut right off. Also got it to my buddy's and started to tear it down last night and noticed the track was worse than thought but the damage is done now. We found a hole in the front heat exchanger and I'm wondering if these can be welded???? Itsa hole around the size of a stud. Any help on this would be great.

Thanks
Travis
 
So I just bought my first snowmobile a 2006 Yamaha apex rtx with 7200 miles on it. When I bought it I knew the track was in rough shape the track had around 144 picks in it. So the first time we got snow was this week and I took the sled out for just a quick rip around and within the first 10 min of my first ride I put a pic through the front heat exchanger. Now that's some luck. Once the low coolant light came on and the temp light I pretty much shut it right down. Then got towed to the trailer and went to start it up to load up and it started then shut right off twice I'm hoping there is a safety switch when the coolant is low and won't let the sled run?????? Because it started then shut right off. Also got it to my buddy's and started to tear it down last night and noticed the track was worse than thought but the damage is done now. We found a hole in the front heat exchanger and I'm wondering if these can be welded???? Itsa hole around the size of a stud. Any help on this would be great.

Thanks
Travis
Yes you should be able to get it welded I have welded many.
 
Travis: had this happen to a buddy of mine, we took the sled with suspension and track removed to an experienced aluminum welder who welded it without having to remove it from the sled. He cleaned, welded and pressure tested it, has held up well for two seasons. Some guys have had luck with JB Weld, but the damage on this exchanger was pretty signficant, much more than a hole the size of a pick. Replacing the exchanger is a massive job from what I have read, so if you can find a reputable welder fabricator, I would give it a shot.
And yes, there must be a built in safety so the sled will not run continuously when coolant is not present or when overheat is detected, this is how my buds sled behaved as well. Good luck.
 
I have fixed mine with jb weld. Still going strong 9000 miles later.
Obviously welding or replacement is the best method but if you do choose to go the jb weld route, i would suggest using jb quick. It sets up in 15 minutes or so and does not run and drip the way that regular jb weld does.
Keys to a good bond are get the heat exchanger empty of all antifreeze.
Use a wire brush or a wire wheel on a drill. Clean the area very well and at least 2 inchs around the damage.
When you think it is clean enough. Clean it some more.
Spray the area with brake cleaner and allow to dry.
Apply your jb weld and if you are in a cold area. Put a drop light or something that will throw off a light heat to try and keep the patch from freezing.
Let it sit overnightto cure fully.
Fill, start and check for leaks.
I have used this method 3 different times on 3 different sleds with no failures.

Good luck with whichever way you go
 
To best of my knowledge there is no safety built into the sled to shut it down if coolant is lost. I've done alot of research on this and have been actively working on my engine saver products to address this shortfall. I had a customer cook a motor last season after he lost all coolant. He never got any warning light. With the temp sensor being mounted remote from the block it won't even trip an over heat like if coolant is not present for the sensor to sense.
 
If light don't come on then why did Travis light came on when there was no coolant
To best of my knowledge there is no safety built into the sled to shut it down if coolant is lost. I've done alot of research on this and have been actively working on my engine saver products to address this shortfall. I had a customer cook a motor last season after he lost all coolant. He never got any warning light. With the temp sensor being mounted remote from the block it won't even trip an over heat like if coolant is not present for the sensor to sense.
 
The temp light could possibly be activated if there is steam making it to the sensor from the block. Once the the cooler is punctured the system is no longer pressurized and it would allow any remaining coolant in the block to boil. I suspect until all the coolant boils off perhaps the temp sensor would get hot enough to trip the temp light on the dash. There would be a limited window of opportunity to catch the illuminated light. With no steam, and no coolant the temp sensor will eventually cool down to the ambient temperature under the hood and then the overheat light will trip off.

The product we are working on will monitor block temp and will notify operator with a warning that stays on rather than just alerting operator for "x" amount of time until all coolant boils off in the motor.
 
The temp light could possibly be activated if there is steam making it to the sensor from the block. Once the the cooler is punctured the system is no longer pressurized and it would allow any remaining coolant in the block to boil. I suspect until all the coolant boils off perhaps the temp sensor would get hot enough to trip the temp light on the dash. There would be a limited window of opportunity to catch the illuminated light. With no steam, and no coolant the temp sensor will eventually cool down to the ambient temperature under the hood and then the overheat light will trip off.

The product we are working on will monitor block temp and will notify operator with a warning that stays on rather than just alerting operator for "x" amount of time until all coolant boils off in the motor.
Let us know when it's ready.
 
Great plan for a constant on light
 
I have fixed mine with jb weld. Still going strong 9000 miles later.
Obviously welding or replacement is the best method but if you do choose to go the jb weld route, i would suggest using jb quick. It sets up in 15 minutes or so and does not run and drip the way that regular jb weld does.
Keys to a good bond are get the heat exchanger empty of all antifreeze.
Use a wire brush or a wire wheel on a drill. Clean the area very well and at least 2 inchs around the damage.
When you think it is clean enough. Clean it some more.
Spray the area with brake cleaner and allow to dry.
Apply your jb weld and if you are in a cold area. Put a drop light or something that will throw off a light heat to try and keep the patch from freezing.
Let it sit overnightto cure fully.
Fill, start and check for leaks.
I have used this method 3 different times on 3 different sleds with no failures.

Good luck with whichever way you go


X2 put 9k niles after JB WELD repair done about like above. Would do it again in a heart beat.
 
I had the same problem last year and did the jb weld thing last year too.I bought a new track this season and didn't feel comfortable leaving it that way.Have a friend that is an experienced aluminum welder and he tig welded it for me.in the process of doing this and grinding the old jb weld out of the hole i dont think it would have ever leaked.Like those guys said get it clean and warm up the exchanger before applying the epoxy and warm when drying .Iused my torpedo heater first then left the trouble light up next to it overnight.
 


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