traverse tzeits
Veteran
I am in the process of transplanting 136 skid from an arctic cat powder special in to a 2006 attak.
I was wondering if I was going to have to run anti Ratchet drivers with after market skid.
I know that the ac skid had no problems with it Ratcheting but----- that was under a cat with there drivers.
I blamed the attaks ratcheting on the stock skids tendency to have less track tension when compressed.
I observed this with the shock removed or installed as I compressed the rear skid track tension would loosen up.
I was wondering if I was going to have to run anti Ratchet drivers with after market skid.
I know that the ac skid had no problems with it Ratcheting but----- that was under a cat with there drivers.
I blamed the attaks ratcheting on the stock skids tendency to have less track tension when compressed.
I observed this with the shock removed or installed as I compressed the rear skid track tension would loosen up.
Attachments
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
I don't remember anyone that mentioned a word about ratcheting with any of the other OEM skids. I wouldn't worry about it.
traverse tzeits
Veteran
That is the answer that I am hoping for.
time will tell
thanks
time will tell
thanks
BenderSRX
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2006
- Messages
- 184
- Location
- Constance Bay Ontario ( Ottawa )
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2013 Yamaha Nytro RTX
I bought a boosted sled from another member on here and it came with a A/C Cross Country Sno Pro suspension. It never Ratcheted once, i loved this suspension except for one thing it kept breaking things, i lost a resivour once, broke the spring in your 3rd pick that goes to the top idler and connects to the rail. When this happens your suspension drops to the ground. I broke the main shaft the top idler wheel sits on 2 times. This was all within 2 seasons and i'm not a jumper. I'm using a ZX2 now and rode all last season with no break downs.
traverse tzeits
Veteran
I know the ac skids and there weak spots so that doesn’t worry me. The upper arms are heaver on certain sleds.
I have broken one and seen a few cracked also.
Already replaced the springs and am looking for the front shock brace.
Plus I over build all grade 8 bolts or better.
The ratcheting was my biggest concern!
Thanks for the info
I have broken one and seen a few cracked also.
Already replaced the springs and am looking for the front shock brace.
Plus I over build all grade 8 bolts or better.
The ratcheting was my biggest concern!
Thanks for the info
Mike Kroener
Lifetime Member
traverse tzeits
Veteran
That is truly good to hear!
I see that the thought that I had about blacking out the colored wheels might not work. Was that spray pant or the plastic dye?
How is the AC skid off trail in the power?
thanks
I see that the thought that I had about blacking out the colored wheels might not work. Was that spray pant or the plastic dye?
How is the AC skid off trail in the power?
thanks
Mike Kroener
Lifetime Member
AC skid
Yeah, the blacked out wheels were a last ditch effort before a trip to the U.P.... Just used Krylon paint for plastic, but it didn't hold up too well. I have since replaced the wheels with black and silver AC wheels. I also replaced the tattored snow flap with a longer one. No one liked riding behind me with this shorty flap..........
Off trail, it does remarkably well for a big heavy machine. I go places I would have never gone with the 121" skid and stock skis. The combination works quite well. It still is a lot of sled and wears you out physically, but with the better attack angle, 136" track, and C&A outlaws it actually floats.
I also lost no top speed, which really surprised me....I switched to a 23T top gear, which the Attak already has and I saw 118 on dream-o meter in stock and converted form........
Mike
Yeah, the blacked out wheels were a last ditch effort before a trip to the U.P.... Just used Krylon paint for plastic, but it didn't hold up too well. I have since replaced the wheels with black and silver AC wheels. I also replaced the tattored snow flap with a longer one. No one liked riding behind me with this shorty flap..........
Off trail, it does remarkably well for a big heavy machine. I go places I would have never gone with the 121" skid and stock skis. The combination works quite well. It still is a lot of sled and wears you out physically, but with the better attack angle, 136" track, and C&A outlaws it actually floats.
I also lost no top speed, which really surprised me....I switched to a 23T top gear, which the Attak already has and I saw 118 on dream-o meter in stock and converted form........
Mike
traverse tzeits
Veteran
I loved the sled but the mono rear end just fell short of my expectations. The weight doesn’t matter I am coming from a/c zrt nothing replaces displacement!
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
traverse tzeits said:
I loved the sled but the mono rear end just fell short of my expectations. The weight doesn’t matter I am coming from a/c zrt nothing replaces displacement!
Yup, I can identify with this. Same here, but I had the RTX suspension. Loved the sled, just couldn't bear to deal with the suspension (or the lack of it). After the conversion, it's a dream sled! A true ground pounding performance cruiser, capable of surviving Sat pm trash in busy areas very easily.
Same thing on weight here too. I was off a long line of Poo tripples.
Fullback
Expert
Almost700
Extreme
Are you guys using Alum for your drop down bracket in the rear? I am putting an F8 128" in mine right now and am debating. I want Alum for weight and looks but steel for strength.
It also appears that I will need a .75" thick plate on the inside front mounts. this skid is 1.5" narrower than the tunnel. Being that thick, I would think Alum will hold up and not wobble out the hole. Any tips to lead me along the way?
It also appears that I will need a .75" thick plate on the inside front mounts. this skid is 1.5" narrower than the tunnel. Being that thick, I would think Alum will hold up and not wobble out the hole. Any tips to lead me along the way?
Fullback
Expert
Almost700 said:Are you guys using Alum for your drop down bracket in the rear?]
I used steel for my drop down brackets but I know others have used aluminum. I think either will work.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
Mine are alum, kinda thin but pretty tough, 'prolly some kind of alloy. Anyway, they can't be much over 3/16" thick.
To get to 3/4", I'd stack progressively smaller plates? The last 1/4" wouldn't need to be much more than a fat washer?
How strong/thick they need to be would be determined by how far they hang unsupported. My bolts are immediately under the tunnel, so not much hanging down at all, not much strength required.
To get to 3/4", I'd stack progressively smaller plates? The last 1/4" wouldn't need to be much more than a fat washer?
How strong/thick they need to be would be determined by how far they hang unsupported. My bolts are immediately under the tunnel, so not much hanging down at all, not much strength required.
traverse tzeits
Veteran
I used shank head bolts there is no thread by the head of the bolt other wise the threads can chew up the hole in the aluminum plates. To get a longer shank you might have to get longer bolts and cut down the treaded portion. Stacking progressively smaller plates or washers. might be able to find aluminum washers at a well stocked hardware store. If you lack that there is always http://www.mcmaster.com/# if they don’t have it, it doesn’t exist.
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