rx-1mountain
Extreme
hey guys
i have a rear cooler comming for my rx1 mountain and i want to learn how to bleed the coolant. also, i hauled my chaincase apart and i took the brakes off. the guy that helps me work on my sled knows all of this stuff but he is out of town and i need to learn how to do this. i want to know how to bleed the brake system. please get back to me!
Thanks
i have a rear cooler comming for my rx1 mountain and i want to learn how to bleed the coolant. also, i hauled my chaincase apart and i took the brakes off. the guy that helps me work on my sled knows all of this stuff but he is out of town and i need to learn how to do this. i want to know how to bleed the brake system. please get back to me!
Thanks
LazyBastard
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In both cases, you remove the cover from the reservoir, and loosen or remove the bleed bolt. For the coolant, the bleed bolt is on the rear cross tube or heat exchanger. For the brakes, the bleed bolt is on the slave cylinder. When bleeding the coolant, be sure that the reservoir is ABOVE the bleed bolt. Also make sure that the reservoir does NOT run empty during bleeding, otherwise it has to be done over again.
On some brakes, a little extra *force* is needed to bleed the system. This can be applied in two ways; using a vacuum pump on the bleed bolt, or by using the brake lever - ie open bleed bolt, squeeze/push brake, tighten bleed bolt, release brake lever, and repeat as needed, but it is VERY unlikely that this will be necessary. Gravity should bleed it out just fine.
FYI: When changing the cross tube for the rear cooler, raise the back of the sled WAY up in the air such that the cross tube/cooler is higher than any other part of the cooling system. This keeps the REST of the system primed and ensures that you don't accidentally leave some "extra" air in the system after bleeding. Lower the back of the sled to normal height for bleeding.
Also, unless you actually removed the hose or bleed bolt from the brakes, bleeding will NOT be necessary. If the brake pads are simply spread apart, then it will self-adjust by squeezing the brake lever several times.
On some brakes, a little extra *force* is needed to bleed the system. This can be applied in two ways; using a vacuum pump on the bleed bolt, or by using the brake lever - ie open bleed bolt, squeeze/push brake, tighten bleed bolt, release brake lever, and repeat as needed, but it is VERY unlikely that this will be necessary. Gravity should bleed it out just fine.
FYI: When changing the cross tube for the rear cooler, raise the back of the sled WAY up in the air such that the cross tube/cooler is higher than any other part of the cooling system. This keeps the REST of the system primed and ensures that you don't accidentally leave some "extra" air in the system after bleeding. Lower the back of the sled to normal height for bleeding.
Also, unless you actually removed the hose or bleed bolt from the brakes, bleeding will NOT be necessary. If the brake pads are simply spread apart, then it will self-adjust by squeezing the brake lever several times.
BURMAD69
Expert
I think you mean bleeder is on caliper dont you LB?
LazyBastard
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The caliper is the *whole assembly*, which consists of piston, cylinder, brackets, etc.
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