How do I cure the "Tippiness" in my Apex?

[MXD]

I love everything about this sled except the fact that it tips real easy when I ride aggressive in the tight stuff. I have 144 studs and 8 inch carbides, all else is stock. How do I get it to corner flat. I'm missing some confidence the way it corners now.
Thanks

 

[welterracer]

13mm swaybar..

Pioneerperformance.net



Enjoy..

 

[SharkAttak]

13mm swaybar..

Pioneerperformance.net



Enjoy..

can you post a pic of the 13mm sway bar, is it hard to put on?

 

[Soldier'spapa]

It takes all of about 15 minutes to install. Piece of cake!

I would also suggest, if you have not yet tried this, to lower the preload on the front springs and shorten the limiter strap by one hole.

 

[mark]

I agree with the 13mm swaybar.

 

[MXD]

It takes all of about 15 minutes to install. Piece of cake!

I would also suggest, if you have not yet tried this, to lower the preload on the front springs and shorten the limiter strap by one hole.

When you say "lower the preload" do you mean back off and soften it?

 

[Soldier'spapa]

It takes all of about 15 minutes to install. Piece of cake!

I would also suggest, if you have not yet tried this, to lower the preload on the front springs and shorten the limiter strap by one hole.

When you say "lower the preload" do you mean back off and soften it?

Yes, shorten up on the skis. The effect will be lowering the ride height more than "Softening"... (Lower ride height = flatter cornering)

The lean or role is more a function of the sway bar.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

yes lower the front end....you want to get the A arms LEVEL with the ground....this is when it stops the ski lift...

if its a RTX lower your pressure with pump till sled arms are flat....or if its other apexs reduce the threads down to lower front..this helps MOST of all....

i ran mine all last year lowered down like this and its awesome..along with pilot skis for best combo...NOT AS LOW AS MY AVATAR>.that was radaring day!

then this season i added 13mm sway bar and WOW..this thing is like on rails,just move up on seat to ride agressively...and it will stay flat...sit almost up on tank for hard riding...and lookout...it rocks!

dan

 

[trenchdigger3]

I agree with the 13mm swaybar.

any place in ontario have the 13mm sway bars, or is the only way to get them is directly from pioneer performane ,I am having same issue,thanks.

 

[mark]

I bought mine from pioneer as well.

 

[Sno Cat]

I disagree w/lower the front end concept. More specifically, this is decreasing spring preload on the front shocks by increasing it's length. I've had better luck doing the opposite: increasing prelaod on the front shocks. My theory: Tipping is due to the shock on the outside of the turn compressing too easily. When it compresses, it allows the ski on the inside of the turn to rise off the snow. If the prelaod is increased, it won't allow the sled to dip as easily in the turn. I've experimented w/my Attak & my buddy's RTX. We found 75 psi to be perfect on the RTX. I've got the front springs on my Attak over compressed from what the owner's manual says only by a little. I've never had to mess w/the limiter strap in the rear skid nor do I have a 13mm sway bar (don't need it IMO). It's also necessarry to use body english in the turns, scoot your a$$ off the seat towards the inside of the turn & lean your upper body into the turn as well. My sled easily corners flatter & faster than the Rev's, Poo's & ditch pickles I ride with.

 

[SharkAttak]

I disagree w/lower the front end concept. More specifically, this is decreasing spring preload on the front shocks by increasing it's length. I've had better luck doing the opposite: increasing prelaod on the front shocks. My theory: Tipping is due to the shock on the outside of the turn compressing too easily. When it compresses, it allows the ski on the inside of the turn to rise off the snow. If the prelaod is increased, it won't allow the sled to dip as easily in the turn. I've experimented w/my Attak & my buddy's RTX. We found 75 psi to be perfect on the RTX. I've got the front springs on my Attak over compressed from what the owner's manual says only by a little. I've never had to mess w/the limiter strap in the rear skid nor do I have a 13mm sway bar (don't need it IMO). It's also necessarry to use body english in the turns, scoot your a$$ off the seat towards the inside of the turn & lean your upper body into the turn as well. My sled easily corners flatter & faster than the Rev's, Poo's & ditch pickles I ride with.

so you tighten up the front shocks? how far?

 

[black700]

i lossened the preload on my front shocks and it corners falt

 

[snowbeast]

Well i have had an attak,06 rtx and 06 apex er and we have tried to tighten and loosen theroy and the best is loose w/13mm sway bar,plus take as much transfer out of your transfer rod so your #*$&@ end slides just a little thru the turn,this helps alot,i know of one fella who relocated his front shocks with a plate he made up,but it is the same method,just that what he did now allows for him to set his max preload back into the front end,he located a bracket for mounting his shocks 1" lower than the stock location,somewhat similar to AD bovine's lowering kit for the poos,and it works. Or pioneers wide front end kit,and you get the new 13mm bar.

 

[Sno Cat]

I disagree w/lower the front end concept. More specifically, this is decreasing spring preload on the front shocks by increasing it's length. I've had better luck doing the opposite: increasing prelaod on the front shocks. My theory: Tipping is due to the shock on the outside of the turn compressing too easily. When it compresses, it allows the ski on the inside of the turn to rise off the snow. If the prelaod is increased, it won't allow the sled to dip as easily in the turn. I've experimented w/my Attak & my buddy's RTX. We found 75 psi to be perfect on the RTX. I've got the front springs on my Attak over compressed from what the owner's manual says only by a little. I've never had to mess w/the limiter strap in the rear skid nor do I have a 13mm sway bar (don't need it IMO). It's also necessarry to use body english in the turns, scoot your a$$ off the seat towards the inside of the turn & lean your upper body into the turn as well. My sled easily corners flatter & faster than the Rev's, Poo's & ditch pickles I ride with.

so you tighten up the front shocks? how far?

That's correct you tighten (make shorter) the spring. On P8-22 of your owner's manual, you increase Dimension A. I don't have my exact spring notes handy, I can send an update tonite. Shortening the spring means you're compressing it which is another way of saying you're increasing the prelaod. Spring force is a function of it's length. By shortening it, you'll make it more resistant to compression ie., it'll be stiffer.
A lot of guys here contradict what I'm saying, I can only tell you what I know from experience, what works for me & what works based on my experience as a Mechanical Engineer. Stiffer spring settings will prevent the sled from 'rolling', will prevent the outside from dipping & will prevent the inside ski from lifting. Stiffening the springs will make for a harder ride in the bumps, that's the trade-off: Cushy ride for less ski lift. You will have to experiment to see what works for you. I'll post an update w/my spring settings when I get home from work tonite or you can PM me.