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New Sidewinder owner - First Impressions/Accessories/Problems/Questions

Anyone know what size rubber plug is needed to plug the hose in the air box. Just not to sure about using tape. Thanks
 

Anyone know what size rubber plug is needed to plug the hose in the air box. Just not to sure about using tape. Thanks
No trust in tape haha.. I used foil tape for the first year and it held on fine and it wasn’t easy getting it off after when I found a rubber plug, It’s been a few years, I’ll see if I can find the one I used, or just measure the OD of the hose that goes in on top of the oil tank as it’s the same size as the hose that goes in the air box.
 
Check out knapps thread on removing rov. It states 3/8 which is what I used.
I think we are talking about different hoses, after 2019 the rov hose goes into the air box and it’s the same size hose that comes off the top of the oil tank which is 5/8” I.d
 
Question…..once the bypass loop hose is installed to the top of the oil tank and out by your right foot - why not leave the hose from the ROV to the airbox in place? Same with the inlet hose to the ROV. Once it’s removed from the top of the oil tank - does it really need to be removed or plugged? Maybe leaving those hoses in place - they become a CAI…..lol
 
Question…..once the bypass loop hose is installed to the top of the oil tank and out by your right foot - why not leave the hose from the ROV to the airbox in place? Same with the inlet hose to the ROV. Once it’s removed from the top of the oil tank - does it really need to be removed or plugged? Maybe leaving those hoses in place - they become a CAI…..lol
The rov bypass works so why leave the hoses connected to the rov ? I guess you can leave the one going into the air box connected as it’s tucked away but the other end going in the oil tank I would remove, cleaner install that way.
 
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Regarding the wiring removal for heated ROV. On my 22 its mounted up high under steer post, bit hard to reach area. I see one terminal, assume the ground, the other one I again assume must be the positive but looks like a hose with a special fitting (approx 1/4 OD) Is this the positive terminal and if so how to you remove it, or can I just remove the negative, I "think" I might be able to get at it to pull it off.
 
600 Mile Update
Here is a quick update after about 600 miles
- The shaper bars are not working out. They are fine as far as turning goes - but they dart like crazy - especially on a well used trail. Going to put on a pair of 9" Deuce bars this week and see how that goes.
- I need more preload on the rear springs. When I am carrying gas and the trail is bumpy - the rear end is too soft even at setting #3. I'll order heavier springs or try the BOP cam that adds a 4th position.
- I installed the BOP ROV bypass - but didn't connect it to the valve cover, I made a loop out of it and ran it down under the right footwell. DO NOT DO THIS!!!! I lost more than 1L of oil on a 90 mile run. Travis confirmed you must connect it to the vent cover or you will lose oil. I consider myself lucky here. The oil pressure light did not come on and the coolant temp stayed normal even though I ran a long time down 1L of oil. I changed the oil right after this happened and sled is running fine with 200 miles since this happened.
- I have tightened the chain twice now - both times I could turn the adjuster bolt in about 2.5 turns. Finger tight and 1 turn back both times.
- I have virtually zero belt dust and very minimal mung/oil on the air filter or in the airbox. Clutches are running cool.
- The UNT Linq bracket is great (see pic). Gives me lots of storage options and the small Arctic Cat bag can stay in place all the time.
- Annoying squeak coming from brake area. Sometimes the brake squeaks, sometimes I hear the squeak during a real slow turn. It's almost like the brake drags even when not being used - during a low speed turn.
- Love the power and the engine braking and the handling other than the darting. If the Deuce bars don't work out - I have a pair of Pilot 6.9's on my Backcountry that I can try.

Headed back up to Sturgeon Falls area later this week for another couple hundred miles of fun.
 

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The shaper bars are not working out. They are fine as far as turning goes - but they dart like crazy - especially on a well used trail. Going to put on a pair of 9" Deuce bars this week and see how that goes.
Have you shimmed skis, checked ski alignment or adjusted any suspension setting to try to correct this first?
 
My chain was the same.. adjust to 1 1/2 turns and checked it every 1000k since new and it was always around 2.5 or a bit more turns out. Now at 9800k it seems like it slowed down some from stretching.
 


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