Tonite i decided to remove the track fram to check everything inside out.
Result: the 2 inner rear wheels (3rd sets) bearing are kaput. 2 of the other four (2nd sets) are wrap. The two top wheels look ok but they hardly turn and seems to be bearing replacable (6205RK), but I'm having trouble removing them. Can anymore help?
Tomorrow I will be looking the get BRP wheels to replace the 6 wheels I been having problems since the sled has 50 miles.
As for the spoke wheels + the middle one, they look OK.
The rest of the frame is fine except for one zert that is leaking, I use the WG to fix that.
Tks.
Result: the 2 inner rear wheels (3rd sets) bearing are kaput. 2 of the other four (2nd sets) are wrap. The two top wheels look ok but they hardly turn and seems to be bearing replacable (6205RK), but I'm having trouble removing them. Can anymore help?
Tomorrow I will be looking the get BRP wheels to replace the 6 wheels I been having problems since the sled has 50 miles.
As for the spoke wheels + the middle one, they look OK.
The rest of the frame is fine except for one zert that is leaking, I use the WG to fix that.
Tks.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
As long as your replacing the bearings, drive them off by driving on the bearing. I can't recall, but you may be able to get the snapring off and get the wheel off and then pull the bearing with a puller. I drove mine off.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
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If your problem is getting them off the shaft... you just gotta pound them. Make sure you don't strike the aluminum shaft, if you need to apply force to it, put a bolt into it and hit the bolt through a block of hardwood.
As for getting the bearings out of the wheels... remove the ring, preferably with a ring compressor, but if thats not available, use needle nosed pliars and a couple of flat screwdrivers. Be careful not to bend the ring, otherwise it won't go back into the slot properly. Then just pound against the center race to get the bearing out of the wheel - there's really no other way. Do not reuse the bearing. Replace bearings with something good, like NTN Formula, NOT OEM bearings, as they only last 1/2 season.
As for getting the bearings out of the wheels... remove the ring, preferably with a ring compressor, but if thats not available, use needle nosed pliars and a couple of flat screwdrivers. Be careful not to bend the ring, otherwise it won't go back into the slot properly. Then just pound against the center race to get the bearing out of the wheel - there's really no other way. Do not reuse the bearing. Replace bearings with something good, like NTN Formula, NOT OEM bearings, as they only last 1/2 season.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
I prefer to take the snap rings out, pop off the wheels, and then use a puller and an impact wrench to take the bearings off the shaft.
This way you don't damage the bushings in the upper cross shaft and don't damage the wheels.
I then clean the wheel (where the bearing sits and the snap ring groove), install the bearing and snap ring (making sure it's fully seated) and then press the wheel/bearing on using a deep socket on the inner race and supporting the other side of the shaft (bolt and washer installed in the thread).
This way you don't damage the bushings in the upper cross shaft and don't damage the wheels.
I then clean the wheel (where the bearing sits and the snap ring groove), install the bearing and snap ring (making sure it's fully seated) and then press the wheel/bearing on using a deep socket on the inner race and supporting the other side of the shaft (bolt and washer installed in the thread).
NY_Nytro
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ReX said:I prefer to take the snap rings out, pop off the wheels, and then use a puller and an impact wrench to take the bearings off the shaft.
This way you don't damage the bushings in the upper cross shaft and don't damage the wheels.
I then clean the wheel (where the bearing sits and the snap ring groove), install the bearing and snap ring (making sure it's fully seated) and then press the wheel/bearing on using a deep socket on the inner race and supporting the other side of the shaft (bolt and washer installed in the thread).
ReX hit it on the nose. Remove the circlip and pull the wheel off and then use a puller to remove the bearing from the shaft.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
I should add, when installing the bearing in the wheel I use a large socket that applies the load directly to the outer race of the bearing, not the inner race.
NY_Nytro
TY 4 Stroke Master
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ReX said:I should add, when installing the bearing in the wheel I use a large socket that applies the load directly to the outer race of the bearing, not the inner race.
I always just use the old bearing on top of the new one to drive it in.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
I used to do that, but if the old bearing is worn and you hit the inner race on it, it will push on the inner race on the new bearing. Even a good old bearing will load the inner race on the new bearing to some extent.
Many years ago I picked up a huge socket set with a 1" drive and sockets up to 4" in diameter...
Many years ago I picked up a huge socket set with a 1" drive and sockets up to 4" in diameter...
NY_Nytro
TY 4 Stroke Master
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ReX said:I used to do that, but if the old bearing is worn and you hit the inner race on it, it will push on the inner race on the new bearing. Even a good old bearing will load the inner race on the new bearing to some extent.
Many years ago I picked up a huge socket set with a 1" drive and sockets up to 4" in diameter...
I lay a short piece of 2x4 on the old bearing and then hit it.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
I think he was talking about using the socket on the inner ring to push the bearing on the axel versus pushing the bearing into the wheel, which is correct.
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