rhoag
Expert
I had my dealer copy the pages out of the manual for adjusting the suspension. In the manual it doesn't give any information on how to tell if your rebound dampening is set correctly. I know on my motorcycle you just push down on the rear and watch how fast it comes back up and after awhile you kinda just get a feel for it. I see a few guys are increasing the rebound dampening adjustment. That may not be a good idea. If your suspension doesn't return to it's full sit in sag inbetween bumps the suspension compesses and you will not be getting full travel. Which will give you a rough stiff ride. I don't know if this will work or if it's correct, but I plan on trying to do like my bike. Push down on the back and it should return to full ride height smoothly and quickly. I mean you can't time how long it takes to return to ride height, if you can you have way to much rebound dampening. Anyway, does anyone have any suggestions on what standard to measure accurate setting of rebound?
I think you're right on there rhoag, the manual is a bit confusing. I set my reboud to 10 clicks "harder" as Tom suggested and it seems to do what you described in that it rebounds harder, getting he suspension ready for the next hit. Had plenty of opportunity to try it today and it seems to work well. I'm looking forward to getting a proper spring as there are some conditions where the rebound is too hard.
The compression adjustment on the fly is simply awesome. Not taking anythgin away from the dial RA adjustment, it's just sooo nice to be able to do it on the fly without stopping as conditions change.
Got 335 miles in everytghin from table top smooth to the nastiest whoops one could want to find, This is one SWEET sled!
The compression adjustment on the fly is simply awesome. Not taking anythgin away from the dial RA adjustment, it's just sooo nice to be able to do it on the fly without stopping as conditions change.
Got 335 miles in everytghin from table top smooth to the nastiest whoops one could want to find, This is one SWEET sled!
rhoag
Expert
As posted above I had the dealer set the preload to the specs in the manual for 230 lbs. Today I wanted to verify sag. I suspended the rear of the sled and measured the spring length (10 3/8 inch). While suspended I put a zip tie on the shock shaft. Then I lowered the sled and with full gear on gently sat on the sled. I had my neighbor then measure the spring in the same way I did (8 5/8 inch). That is 1 3/4 inch different which equals 44MM. I did it 3 times to verify and measured how far the zip tie moved it was 44 everytime. Then I went and jumped on the scale with all the same gear on I was 224 lbs. So bottom line for my sled is this. According to the first post in this thread the fully extended (unloaded) sping length should be no less than 10.3 inches. Well at 10 3/8" I am right at the edge and can't make it any shorter to increase preload. My sag is 44MM that's right on the edge. So when this spring gets alittle worn in I will probably need the heavier spring. The manual says that the stock spring should be fine for 240 lbs "BS". I would say if you are 230 in gear get the heavier spring. But check everything before putting the $$$ out. On a side note---- Everyone from Doo......cat guys really liked the GT when I was at the lake today!
cookster
Extreme
just wondering what gt owners are setting there front clicker shocks at as i purchased a set from the classified sections and have no instructions for them mounted on my apex er . i go aprox 260 lb`s ready to ride and was wondering a good starting point for spring height # of threads, and comp and rebound settings seems like there is a pile of clicks and would like a good starting point. thanks
Alatalo
TY 4 Stroke Master
It is very important to set the ride height at the specified 40-45 mm of rider sag (measured at the spring, as described earlier in this topic). This ensures that you have got 1/3 of the stroke available for rebound strokes and 2/3 of the stroke available for compression strokes. If you step outside this window both your suspension comfort and your suspension performance will suffer.
If you can not reach the specified 40-45 mm of rider sag without exceeding the maximum amount of preload, you will likely need a stiffer spring. Yamaha is offering stiffer springs and so is Ohlins. Also, if you can not avoid frequent bottoming out, even if you are using the maximum amount of compression damping, you might be interested in getting a stiffer spring. If the bottoming out problem is bad you might also be interested in getting the shock re-valved and re-springed to the scandinavian spec (much stiffer damping and spring).
The american Apex GT spring is a 48 N/mm (274 lbs/inch) spring. Yamahas stiffer option is a 54 N/mm (308 lbs/inch) spring. Not sure about the Yamaha part number but the Ohlins part number is 696-11. The scandinavian Apex GT spring is a 70 N/mm (400 lbs/inch) spring. Again not sure about the Yamaha part number but the Ohlins part number is 696-19.
If you can not reach the specified 40-45 mm of rider sag without exceeding the maximum amount of preload, you will likely need a stiffer spring. Yamaha is offering stiffer springs and so is Ohlins. Also, if you can not avoid frequent bottoming out, even if you are using the maximum amount of compression damping, you might be interested in getting a stiffer spring. If the bottoming out problem is bad you might also be interested in getting the shock re-valved and re-springed to the scandinavian spec (much stiffer damping and spring).
The american Apex GT spring is a 48 N/mm (274 lbs/inch) spring. Yamahas stiffer option is a 54 N/mm (308 lbs/inch) spring. Not sure about the Yamaha part number but the Ohlins part number is 696-11. The scandinavian Apex GT spring is a 70 N/mm (400 lbs/inch) spring. Again not sure about the Yamaha part number but the Ohlins part number is 696-19.
kviper
VIP Member
rhoag it sound's like you are geting the same result's that i am with sit in and we weigh about the same.
I have about 250mi an the GT now and have played with the rebound some. On high speed stutter's you will want the rebound set as soft as it will go so it can return as quick as possible but on the bigger roller's the lesser rebound dampening will cause the rear to kick (pitch you up in the air on return) so you will need more rebound dampening for the roller's and adjust your compression as needed or find a happy medium if you don't want to adjust. kviper
I have about 250mi an the GT now and have played with the rebound some. On high speed stutter's you will want the rebound set as soft as it will go so it can return as quick as possible but on the bigger roller's the lesser rebound dampening will cause the rear to kick (pitch you up in the air on return) so you will need more rebound dampening for the roller's and adjust your compression as needed or find a happy medium if you don't want to adjust. kviper
rhoag
Expert
ya i'm going to have to get some time in the saddle before making any more adjustments. I have decided with this sled to make a trail carving sled. I would like to be able to fly like I was on a my old 700 VmaxSX, but be able to fly in the rough stuff too. In the past I usually compromised the set up for the occasional drag race. I think in the long run I will probably end up with the stiffer spring.
kviper
VIP Member
Actualy for clarification thirty click's out frome light seat is minimum rebound dampening. I have mine at 25 out now and ran some wash board type stuff 12" to 18" at 80mph on saturday and it was not bad at all, 30 out was better but kicked a lot on the three foot roller's so i tried going back in 5 click's. I think this is what tom is saying by 10 click's in (20 out) being a good all around setting and then you can adjust frome there if you get into a lot of a specific condition. Most of my riding is not that fast so i will run a softer overall setup. kviper
Yes traditionally the transfer rod will have some effect on your ride quality but on the Monoshock the adjustment is primarily to increase or decrease weight transfer.
Since this is turning into a good suspension setting post I though I would throw in this info on control rod settigns. Yamaha recomend that changing the limiter strap is the last adjustment you should do on the mono shock suspension. The best way to eliminate ski lift by adjusting your control rod. The stock setting between the outer nut and the control rod shaft should be 45mm is you want less weight transfer turn in the adjuster (reduce the gap) minimum length should be 35mm don't reduce more than 35mm. Try this and it will rail. I ran mine both ways and there is a huge difference.
Traditionally the more space you have 55mm the longer it takes before the suspension couples and the more weight transfer you have. A smaller gap 35mm will have less transfer, less traction, less ski lift and be should handle better. Bigger gap 55mm means more ski lift, softer initial travel, more traction etc...
The control is a fun easy adjustment to play with. You should try breaking the nuts loose in your garage as they tend to be very tight from the factory and re tighten them before you hit the trail.
Since this is turning into a good suspension setting post I though I would throw in this info on control rod settigns. Yamaha recomend that changing the limiter strap is the last adjustment you should do on the mono shock suspension. The best way to eliminate ski lift by adjusting your control rod. The stock setting between the outer nut and the control rod shaft should be 45mm is you want less weight transfer turn in the adjuster (reduce the gap) minimum length should be 35mm don't reduce more than 35mm. Try this and it will rail. I ran mine both ways and there is a huge difference.
Traditionally the more space you have 55mm the longer it takes before the suspension couples and the more weight transfer you have. A smaller gap 35mm will have less transfer, less traction, less ski lift and be should handle better. Bigger gap 55mm means more ski lift, softer initial travel, more traction etc...
The control is a fun easy adjustment to play with. You should try breaking the nuts loose in your garage as they tend to be very tight from the factory and re tighten them before you hit the trail.
Yamahead
Newbie
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2005
- Messages
- 5
Re:Ride Height
Can you apply any of this to an Attack and if not does any one have any info that would help setup the long track?
Can you apply any of this to an Attack and if not does any one have any info that would help setup the long track?
rxwhopper
TY 4 Stroke Guru
i am not understanding the points of measurement on the contral rod and is there a maxx setting you can go for transfer
rhoag
Expert
rxwhopper,
If you look in your owners manual they show exactly how to adjust the control rod (weight transfer setting) There is a gauge scribed right into the wrench in your tool kit. My experience on my 05 RX1 was that the stock setting was to much transfer. I reduced it to halfway between stock and minimum transfer. I haven't had a chance to play with the GT yet. It's an easy adjustment and you can just try different setting till you find what you like best. It works great for the early season rides, set it to max and just wheelie over mud holes. LOL
If you look in your owners manual they show exactly how to adjust the control rod (weight transfer setting) There is a gauge scribed right into the wrench in your tool kit. My experience on my 05 RX1 was that the stock setting was to much transfer. I reduced it to halfway between stock and minimum transfer. I haven't had a chance to play with the GT yet. It's an easy adjustment and you can just try different setting till you find what you like best. It works great for the early season rides, set it to max and just wheelie over mud holes. LOL
rightarm
TY 4 Stroke Master
Alot of talk about suspension set up but no one has mentioned wether they are wearing there equipment or not, so I'am curious to know how many have set there suspension up with all of there equipment on,as to no equipment.I'am assuming that the extra 10 pounds or so would make a difference.In the initial setup.
bgbytoys
Extreme
the spring is pretty much for a 180 lb rider. it can be made stiffer but after 220 lbs you probably would like the ride better after the heavier spring gets put in. the ride will be harsh with the stock spring twisted up tight. the ra adjuster on std apexs does REBOUND dampening not compression. it is in yamahas update service book.
riverrat
Expert
Does the measurement change for a heavier spring in the GT?
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