mtkaboater
Extreme
I have 2006 Vector GT with 8500 miles. It has a new battery this season. Went riding last weekend with no issues for most of the day. Then, we stopped on the side of the trail for 5 minutes and when I went to start it, it was dead. We jumped it and rode it to the bar. Needed another jump to leave bar. Charged it overnight. Rode it again the next day, but my buddy said my headlight was getting dim. Got it on the trailer, but battery was dead again when I got home. Read on TY a bunch and found that some people have had issues with stators going bad. Here is what I did to test it: Pulled the nosecone off sled to access the regulator where stator plugs in. 3 white wires. Tested wires to each other with ohm meter. Got a reading just under 2 ohms across 1 set of white wires, but open (no reading) across the others. Best I can tell from other posts, this means stator is bad. Can anyone verify my test proceedure? And does anyone know if there are aftermarket stators that are better then a $300 yami version? Thanks!
Seems like you've done your homework mtkaboater. The stator is like 3 coils connected in triangle way where white wires connect. One thing that bother me is the fact that you read completely open on one wire... or is it ? THink about it... in triangle connection, if a coil opens, still connection goes the other way around then you still read some.. not as low, but you do. Do the measurement again to double check.. make sure you disconnect the white wires connector. You know, when the thing overheat & burn by heat amplification who knows can happen in there. It is possible that one wire has completely broken off the connection point as well. If you get the same readings... that your stator for sure... connector off please when checking so ther diodes in your regulator module does not interfere.
Good luck... check www.rmstator.com 150 bucks for the parts + shipping. I heard from "Towing" that they have a good varnishing and cooking process which push their unit one notch higher than the OEM.
Good luck... check www.rmstator.com 150 bucks for the parts + shipping. I heard from "Towing" that they have a good varnishing and cooking process which push their unit one notch higher than the OEM.
mtkaboater
Extreme
Thanks aVenture. I did disconnect the 3 wire connector from the regulator when I tested it, but I will re-check it. The connector itself appears normal. Maybe there is another connection closer to the stator where I can check.
I did go the rmstator site - they don't seem to have the one for the Vector, but I might have to call. I did find the Yamaha part from PowersEdge Yamaha for $233.
I did go the rmstator site - they don't seem to have the one for the Vector, but I might have to call. I did find the Yamaha part from PowersEdge Yamaha for $233.
mtkaboater
Extreme
I just checked and the 2005 Venture and 2006 Vector do have the same original part number for the stator (Yami part # 8ES-81410-00-00) . So I'll have to call the RMStator company and order it up on Monday. In the meantime, I think I'll pull the old one - sounds like its a bit of work. I'll post some comments about that later.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Just to help your confidence a little I enclosed the below testing and spec.
Also, I assume you checked for charging voltage across the battery and found it to NOT be > 13 VDC at 3K RPM.
Stator coil resistance Spec:
0.22 ~ 0.26 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
(White – White)
This means put one test lead on the center white and the other test lead to one of the outer Whites for the first reading. Then put the test lead to the other outer white for the second reading. On a good stator, both circuits should read .22 to .26 Ohms.
Given that you have an open on one of the circuits, you have confirmed that the stator is shot.
I attached a guide on how to change a stator. It may vary a little cause it is off the nytro. As I understand it, you may be able to just pivot the engine up versus fully removing it.
Charge your battery fully, before installing it. The sled can not fully charge a significantly discharged battery. Actually, you probably should charge the battery and then load test it.
Also, I assume you checked for charging voltage across the battery and found it to NOT be > 13 VDC at 3K RPM.
Stator coil resistance Spec:
0.22 ~ 0.26 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
(White – White)
This means put one test lead on the center white and the other test lead to one of the outer Whites for the first reading. Then put the test lead to the other outer white for the second reading. On a good stator, both circuits should read .22 to .26 Ohms.
Given that you have an open on one of the circuits, you have confirmed that the stator is shot.
I attached a guide on how to change a stator. It may vary a little cause it is off the nytro. As I understand it, you may be able to just pivot the engine up versus fully removing it.
Charge your battery fully, before installing it. The sled can not fully charge a significantly discharged battery. Actually, you probably should charge the battery and then load test it.
mtkaboater
Extreme
Thanks Len; I did also remove the battery, fully charged it and had it load tested. It was good. I re-installed it and then checked as follows: With the sled off, voltage across the battery terminals was 12.8. When I started the sled, voltage did not change at all. Even when revving it up over 3000rpm.
mtkaboater
Extreme
I also closely inspected the wires coming out of the stator to the connector to ensure that there was no chaffing or other issues with the wires themselves. They looked good as did the connector. According to my manual and even according to Len's Nytro instructions, removal of the engine is required. And a flywheel puller is required too which I don't have. I am evaluating whether to have a pro do this for me - I'm a pretty good mechanic, and probably would do it if it was over the summer, but I gots to ride... have 2 major trips planned for Feb.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
You may have to pull the engine. Sometimes it is easier to just pull it right out anyway. Good luck. It should not be that bad to do. I have had several Sled engines out and on the bench. Just lay out a large piece of plywood, covered with rags and place removed components in a sequence with the side facing you as you pull things off, facing up on the board.
I do not have the Vector Tech Manual. Otherwise, I would have sent you the Engine removal section from it. I sent what I had to just show you what you are typically getting into for a Stator replacement.
IMHO, sometimes, ... it is better to take it into the dealer, if you can get a reasonable schedule. I have always done that when I had to replace crankshafts. However, if I can't get it in the shop before I need it back, then it is time to buy the tools and go for it.
I do not have the Vector Tech Manual. Otherwise, I would have sent you the Engine removal section from it. I sent what I had to just show you what you are typically getting into for a Stator replacement.
IMHO, sometimes, ... it is better to take it into the dealer, if you can get a reasonable schedule. I have always done that when I had to replace crankshafts. However, if I can't get it in the shop before I need it back, then it is time to buy the tools and go for it.
mtkaboater
Extreme
I did decide that I am going to have a local mechanic to this for me because its riding season and have trips planned. I tried to order the part from RM Stator because of what others on this site have said, however, they called me today to say that they need my old stator in order to use the wire connector from the old one. No words at all about that on their web site. I thought I was getting a new stator - they even issued me a UPS tracking number. I had to cancel my order with them and order the part from Yamaha. I'm a bit pissed off about that as now I am another day behind schedule. So word to the wise - call RMStator rather then use their web site.
mtkaboater
Extreme
It's done
I did have my mechanic replace the stator. And the engine did have to come out. Replaced the exhaust donuts while they were accessable, but the old ones still looked pretty good. Stator from PowersEdge Yamaha was $233, labor (including getting my carbs synced) was $250. All is running well now. Just rode 200+ miles in Alexandria MN and once again, I love my Vector. Next week is 5 days in the U.P. Should have close to 10,000 miles on it when done in MI. This summer will rebuild/replace clutches. Any suggestions? Thanks all for your comments.
I did have my mechanic replace the stator. And the engine did have to come out. Replaced the exhaust donuts while they were accessable, but the old ones still looked pretty good. Stator from PowersEdge Yamaha was $233, labor (including getting my carbs synced) was $250. All is running well now. Just rode 200+ miles in Alexandria MN and once again, I love my Vector. Next week is 5 days in the U.P. Should have close to 10,000 miles on it when done in MI. This summer will rebuild/replace clutches. Any suggestions? Thanks all for your comments.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
These sleds are easy to love, when they are working.
When are U going to the U.P.? I am going up to Munising/Marquette this weekend.
When are U going to the U.P.? I am going up to Munising/Marquette this weekend.
mtkaboater
Extreme
Overall, the sled has been dependable and very fun to ride - a trail cadillac - or more like a trail corvette. Leaving MN on Sat 2/20. Staying in Twin Lakes. Back to Minnesota on Thurs 2/25. We have talked several times about going futher east such as to Marquette, but it gets to be a long drive from the Twin Cities.
Glad you get it going well, have fun.
Just tilting the engine forward, give enought room to swap stator., some say.
I would anyway give it a second look at the electricals to make sure there is no spot short, or home added connection without necessary protection which would overload the stator. Do few volts readings as a follow up.
Have you seen the deceased ? Did it cooked good ?
Just tilting the engine forward, give enought room to swap stator., some say.
I would anyway give it a second look at the electricals to make sure there is no spot short, or home added connection without necessary protection which would overload the stator. Do few volts readings as a follow up.
Have you seen the deceased ? Did it cooked good ?
mtkaboater
Extreme
aVenture: Just finished putting 225 miles on it this past weekend with the new stator. Worked well. I did test it again last night (in prep to go to MI) and it is charging just fine (14.5v at the battery with engine running). I have the old stator - very cooked at the point where the wires going to the regulator meet the coil. 1 wire cooked right off (hence my open reading with the ohm meter), the other 2 wires looked like they were on there way out. Dont know if the stator was just getting old anyway due to the milage on the machine - I have read here on TY that several others have had issues around this milage. Or stator was cooked by new RSI handwarmers. There is a lot of coincidence that handwarmers caused it, but they check out with the test meter. I have PMed the Rockmeister concerning what he knows about RSI warmers and his Yamaheater. Handwarmers un-connected until further testing is complete.