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HYFAX and SLP wear Pads !!

welterracer

TY 4 Stroke God
Joined
May 14, 2003
Messages
5,382
Location
Kieler wis.
After using the SLP wear pads i have noticed a huge increase in Hyfax life.

Without the wear pads i went threw my first set of hyfax at 400miles the second set at 1200 miles and with the SLP wear pads my last set lasted over 1680 miles... THey werent burned thre but were close..


I have noticed one major problem... THe hyfax last longer with the SLP's but i lost a couple wear pads and at 1600 miles the pads are all SHOT... and need replacing..

Overall im not sure if they are worth the hassel or not.. THey wear out fast... I was in good snow the whole last 1600 miles.. and when using the Slp wear pads you take a chance of them bending over and ruining the slides or flying off into your heat exchanger..


Im on the fence on this one.. :drink:
 

I would rather change out my wearpads every thousand than change hyfax every 400 which is about what I got. 1600-1800 miles so far on my pads, still OK
Got 3000 on a 97 Vmax (lighter weight might be the diff)

Some ideas, get a vendor here to make them out of harder material.
or thinking about buying another set, $25 no big deal and send them out for cryogenic treatment.

http://www.diversifiedcryogenics.com/
 
probably why my sliders last so long...1 inch fully clipped...havent worn barely at all so far this season..and last season i was running lots of ice and roads ,without too much wear at 1000 miles..

yet another reason i never liked ripsaw...sliders wear out.

great post!
dan
 
Well I have a fully clipped track and I am going through twice as many slides before I went fully clipped. I was told that the fully clipped track holds more heat because there are more clips.
 
Vector1 said:
Well I have a fully clipped track and I am going through twice as many slides before I went fully clipped. I was told that the fully clipped track holds more heat because there are more clips.

someone lied to you....its pretty much common knowledge that closed window tracks are slower,with more friction and less snow coming in thru windows cause more slider wear....metal clips slide across plastic slider with much less resistance then rubber.

If you are wearing slides fast with open window clipped track...you need to check your tension,it may be too tight...run it with about 1 inch of free hang(warmed track)....also,be sure your idlers are all good...

only place mine wore heavily was middle...which i added the mid wheel kit this year and stopped that hi wear area..

Dan
 
machzed said:
Vector1 said:
Well I have a fully clipped track and I am going through twice as many slides before I went fully clipped. I was told that the fully clipped track holds more heat because there are more clips.

someone lied to you....its pretty much common knowledge that closed window tracks are slower,with more friction and less snow coming in thru windows cause more slider wear....metal clips slide across plastic slider with much less resistance then rubber.

If you are wearing slides fast with open window clipped track...you need to check your tension,it may be too tight...run it with about 1 inch of free hang(warmed track)....also,be sure your idlers are all good...

only place mine wore heavily was middle...which i added the mid wheel kit this year and stopped that hi wear area..

Dan

Hey Dan I'm running about 3/4 inch free hang on my ripsaw and I thought I might be too loose but according to your post I should be OK. Last year I ran my track at the tension my dealer had it and it was really tight without any free hang. I also have the slp wearpads and my sliders look great with 2400 miles. Maybe I'm doing something wrong because I still have original belt, hyfax, plugs and wheels on my sled?
 
Hey Dan I'm running about 3/4 inch free hang on my ripsaw and I thought I might be too loose but according to your post I should be OK. Last year I ran my track at the tension my dealer had it and it was really tight without any free hang. I also have the slp wearpads and my sliders look great with 2400 miles. Maybe I'm doing something wrong because I still have original belt, hyfax, plugs and wheels on my sled?[/quote]

If you put on 2400 miles and still have all those original parts, your not doing anything wrong. ;)!
 
These might help! ( Cooling Fins) I made them up for my Warrior and they really help with cooling and will probably give better Hyfax life, and it looks like they gave me a few MPH on the "Big End"
 

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2600 miles on my pads. Looking worn but still in good shape. Will change them out by the end of the season. IMO I'd rather change my pads every 2-3000 miles than my hyfax every 400-1000. BTW, I've only lost 2mm of my hyfaxes in those 2600 miles, at that rate they should last forever!!!
 
Hey guys...yes i totally agree,if you run the ripsaw the pads are wonderful way to achieve the hifax life of a fully clipped track...

I put my predator on my sled when i bought it,I have never been a ripsaw fan so knew i didnt want one with the apex....

but for those of you who are running the rip...or any closed window track,these seem to be a great way to get less friction.
 
I'm running a fully clipped loose track (it will ratchet some times) and my sliders still wore out in 500 km. Have since installed larger doo wheels and ordered marinal wheel kit. Testing to come.
 
Glad someone started this thread again.

I just installed my fifth set (including the original) set of HiFax on my Attak. This was at 4500 miles.

Last year, I installed the Ice Ripper track, Fully clipped and it was still wearing too fast. This year I added a rear heat exchanger, extra wheel set and Yamaha slipppery HiFax. These only ran about 500 miles..

<<Note - all my riding is in Quebec. Snow coverage has NEVER been a problem.>>

There is some sort of heat build up in colder temps where the snow doesn't melt quick enough or doesn't have the moisture?

At any rate, I installed a set of HyPerfax Teflon slides and after 500 miles, I cannot see ANY WEAR. No binding, no plastic smell early in AM, in short - Problem solved!!

GW
 


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