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Hyfax shot after 500 miles

LAKECITYAPEX

Extreme
Joined
Oct 2, 2009
Messages
50
Location
northern NY
My hyfax is shot after 500 miles. I have a 07 Apex RTX with the proaction suspension. How many wheels do I need to change? Should I add extra wheels? I would like to use the skidoo 135 mm idler wheel. Do I need the skidoo mounts or yamaha mounts? thanks
 

Are you sure they are shot or just down to the wear line? A lot of people change them before they need to. Might be worth checking. Grab a 10mm open ended wrench and see if it slides over the side of the slide. If it does then yeah they are probably shot but if not you might want to run them a little longer.
 
Mine went to the wear line and stopped. Then I got another 500 plus after that. but I heat them up and cool them down alot.
 
Heating and cooling

FAMILYMAN said:
Mine went to the wear line and stopped. Then I got another 500 plus after that. but I heat them up and cool them down alot.

Alright so I understand the theory here but having a little background in this field I don't know why this would work. Plastic does not have the same properties as metal. Metal can be work hardened with heat and pressure but that doesn't mean it is the strongest and hardest. Unless you have high, consistant heat along with relitive pressure metal is actually weaker when you heat it up... Ever broke a metal clothes hanger by bending it back and forth? It breaks because you make heat and work harden it. Cold rolled steel is actually one of the strongest metals without going to a more expensive and intensive hardening process. And all this information is for metal...
Now lets talk about plastics. The slides that we buy are probably made through the process called Injection Molding. It heats the material up and squirts it out of a tube in the shape of the slide then cuts it to length. This plastic material with the additive of graphite has no specific grain or flow to it like metal does. It is just blobbed out of a tube like tooth paste and hardened. So when you heat these up you aren't flowing the molecular grain together like you are in metal. You are softening the plastic and aggresivily wearing the slide while it is hot. Then shock cooling the plastic after it gets warm. (wouldn't be surprised if you were at actually crack the plastic if you shock cool it too fast) I don't see this work hardening at all. The most it might do is peal/push plastic from the front of the slide to the back of the slide in the least resistant spot where it isn't going to wear anyway. Also, by heating the plastic up you might glob up your clips on your track creating a rough surface thus creating a sandpaper kind of feel in the clips and wearing the slides more.
This is just my opinion on how that works. The best thing to do is keep the slide as cool as you can by the simple addition of scratchers or always duck in and get fresh snow.
 
Re: Heating and cooling

sledneck22 said:
FAMILYMAN said:
Mine went to the wear line and stopped. Then I got another 500 plus after that. but I heat them up and cool them down alot.

Alright so I understand the theory here but having a little background in this field I don't know why this would work. Plastic does not have the same properties as metal. Metal can be work hardened with heat and pressure but that doesn't mean it is the strongest and hardest. Unless you have high, consistant heat along with relitive pressure metal is actually weaker when you heat it up... Ever broke a metal clothes hanger by bending it back and forth? It breaks because you make heat and work harden it. Cold rolled steel is actually one of the strongest metals without going to a more expensive and intensive hardening process. And all this information is for metal...
Now lets talk about plastics. The slides that we buy are probably made through the process called Injection Molding. It heats the material up and squirts it out of a tube in the shape of the slide then cuts it to length. This plastic material with the additive of graphite has no specific grain or flow to it like metal does. It is just blobbed out of a tube like tooth paste and hardened. So when you heat these up you aren't flowing the molecular grain together like you are in metal. You are softening the plastic and aggresivily wearing the slide while it is hot. Then shock cooling the plastic after it gets warm. (wouldn't be surprised if you were at actually crack the plastic if you shock cool it too fast) I don't see this work hardening at all. The most it might do is peal/push plastic from the front of the slide to the back of the slide in the least resistant spot where it isn't going to wear anyway. Also, by heating the plastic up you might glob up your clips on your track creating a rough surface thus creating a sandpaper kind of feel in the clips and wearing the slides more.
This is just my opinion on how that works. The best thing to do is keep the slide as cool as you can by the simple addition of scratchers or always duck in and get fresh snow.

The slides are not injection molded, but probably extruded through a extrusion die. Injection molded products would require a matched metal mold which then has the plastic injected into under high pressures.
 
Yeah that is what I ment... Extrusion Die, Extrusion molded. the best example I have of how it is done is squirting toothpaste out of a tube into a perticular shape with it drying instantly to that shape.
 
Yes the slidese are below the wear line. I'm going to replace them but was wondering if I should add more wheels on the skid being an RTX. Some people on TY are running the 135 mm skidoo wheels. Do I need the skidoo brackets or the yamaha ones. The skidoo wheels are bigger than the stock yamaha wheels. will the bigger wheels put more stress on the slides rails and crack them? Thanks
 
Put the Yamaha Marinal Wheel Kit on your sled, end of problem. Part # SMA-8FP95-00-00 put one set up the front of your suspension were it starts to curve & one set in front of your rear wheels. I have 3700 miles on my Apex and I ride alot of bare Ice @ high speeds & still have my original slides, don't be surprised if you pick up 2 or 3 miles per hour.
 
loosen up your track. mine wear to a point from new then pretty much quit. my track is not too tight. i have a gt. try and keep in fresh snow as much as possible.
 
the reason it stops at the line or near it...is because by the time it gets there .it has been heated and cooled many times...temper it just like a pice of steel..heat cool and it willnot wear..
 


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