Ignition fuse keeps blowing after oil change!

[GlennM]

So, after draining my oils (on the lift, started the winder to warm up the oil before draining) I removed the chain case cover to clean and inspect. I reinstalled everything except the actuator, put both oils in and then reinstalled the actuator.
Without the current on, I turned the engine over for a couple seconds....
Then as soon as I hit the ignition kill switch to ON, everything went dead.
Found my ignition fuse was blown. I went threw 5 fuses, still nothing but a blown fuse!

HELP PLEASE!!!
Thanks in advance for any advice

 

[Kevin]

check for wires pinched behind the actuator.
wires should be in front on it, not between it and case

 

[GlennM]

check for wires pinched behind the actuator.
wires should be in front on it, not between it and case

Yeah all wires, cables are a-ok!

 

[earthling]

The actuator is not directly connected to the ignition fuse. The actuator will be controlled by the shift relays which themselves provide power to the actuator from the shift fuse.

The ignition fuse sits between always on power (direct to battery) and the main relay. The main relay sends that power to the headlight relay, tail light relay, and fuel pump relay where it is there just to energize the coils (turn those systems on). It (main relay) is additionally supplying power to the waste gate actuator, the air bypass valve, the 3 ignition coils, and the main ECU.

If you do not have a VIP membership you really should just to get the wiring diagrams so you can hunt this down as it appears you have something shorted to ground somewhere.

 

[GlennM]

The actuator is not directly connected to the ignition fuse. The actuator will be controlled by the shift relays which themselves provide power to the actuator from the shift fuse.

The ignition fuse sits between always on power (direct to battery) and the main relay. The main relay sends that power to the headlight relay, tail light relay, and fuel pump relay where it is there just to energize the coils (turn those systems on). It (main relay) is additionally supplying power to the waste gate actuator, the air bypass valve, the 3 ignition coils, and the main ECU.

If you do not have a VIP membership you really should just to get the wiring diagrams so you can hunt this down as it appears you have something shorted to ground somewhere.

Thanks for the detailed response, now I know a little more about the current.
It's very strange because all I did was heat the motor, drained the oils, removed chain case cover and re-installed everything and added oil.
Now the ignition fuse keeps blowing! F word many times!

 

[earthling]

I get how frustrating that is. I would check that the three coils are not shorted to ground, you can pull the connectors and from the cable end, one side should go to the ECU, the other side should go to the main relay power, neither should go to ground.

 

[GlennM]

Didn't touch any of those... but I'll check ✔

 

[earthling]

I know you didn't go near the coils, I am only suggesting so you can eliminate them as 3 of the 5 connections which do not feed relays. The relay connections which are the 3 relays mentioned, are all interchangeable relays so that is an easy thing to diagnose as well.

 

[Richard Hodgins]

I would have a close look at the main wire harness on the frame beside the airbox. I know you didnt go near there but it could be a coincidence you changed actuator and this started happening. I had 2 different sidewinders with issues like that and it was always a wire rubbing the frame that shorted out and would blow fuses. Undo the tape and zip ties and inspect the wires there.

 

[74Nitro]

What do you mean by "without the current on, I turned over the engine"?

 

[RobX-1]

Without the current on, I turned the engine over for a couple seconds....
5hen as soon as I hit the ignition kill switch to ON, everything went dead.

What do you mean by "without the current on, I turned over the engine"?

I read it as he had the Kill switch engaged (ie. no current) and turned engine over after changing oil and then when he disengaged the Kill switch (ie. hit ignition Kill switch to ON), lost power.

 

[GlennM]

Exactly

I read it as he had the Kill switch engaged (ie. no current) and turned engine over after changing oil and then when he disengaged the Kill switch (ie. hit ignition Kill switch to ON), lost power.

 

[GlennM]

I found the problem!
Fuse box held with 2 metal stems, very sharp edges. One wire was rubbing on it and wore to the wire causing a shortage. I taped the wire and added a sticky foam on one of the stems.
Make sure you check it out!
From running my motor before draining the oil to nothing... just like that! Glad it happened in my garage and not on the trails!
Runs fine now after a full day of searching!
Thanks to everyone for your inputs!

 

[acpantera]

Another one to put on the inspection list. Thanks, good work GlennM.

 

[earthling]

Good catch, looks like the power for the headlight. I put some innertube material under the entire fuse holder. Didn't have to do anything special, I think the pressure from the fuse box and wires is holding it in place.