MXD
Pro
Has anyone ever shimmed the carbides? I was thinking of trying it by adding a couple of washers to the third nut and about 4 or 5 to the fourth. Won't this accomplish the same thing?
NY_Nytro
TY 4 Stroke Master
That could leave a gap between the bar and the ski which might snag on something.
markusvt
Veteran
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2005
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- 38
Be careful doing anything which will try to bend the bar where the carbides are mounted, they will pop out very easily if the bar is bent, They are not welded in, but braised or soldered.
Installing the shims takes 5 minutes, and works.
Here is the 5 minute install.
1. Cut out 2 pieces of plastic from an old truck mud flap or what have you, make them so they fit tight on top of the rear of the ski rubber. They will be 1/4" thick by roughly 1"x2".
2. Test fit by putting a milk crate under the lower front shock mount, now you can bend the front of the ski way up, (bungie it to the bumper).
3. If it fits good on top of the rear of the bumper, let the ski back to make sure the won't squirt out because they are too big.
4. Cover the back of them with RTV, and place on top of the rubber, (under the spindle). Hold in place by sinking in 2 screws in them, I used 1 5/8" coated deck screws. Don't use a screw that will rust out.
Nice thing about this is the ski's don't have to come off, and if you want more steering, pull the screws and you are back to stock, (you can do this on the trail).
You will now notice on the garage floor, the front of the carbide will be off the ground maybe 1/4" or so.
Rules to remember:
Moving the ski forward, the carbide forward, or the front of the ski/carbide down, makes it steer easier, but dart more.
Moving the ski backwards, the carbide backwards, or the front of the ski/carbide up, makes it steer harder, and dart less.
Anyone who has snow/water skied will know this sensation. This is also why when you slow quickly, weight transfers, and some sleds get twitchey and darty.
Markusvt.
Installing the shims takes 5 minutes, and works.
Here is the 5 minute install.
1. Cut out 2 pieces of plastic from an old truck mud flap or what have you, make them so they fit tight on top of the rear of the ski rubber. They will be 1/4" thick by roughly 1"x2".
2. Test fit by putting a milk crate under the lower front shock mount, now you can bend the front of the ski way up, (bungie it to the bumper).
3. If it fits good on top of the rear of the bumper, let the ski back to make sure the won't squirt out because they are too big.
4. Cover the back of them with RTV, and place on top of the rubber, (under the spindle). Hold in place by sinking in 2 screws in them, I used 1 5/8" coated deck screws. Don't use a screw that will rust out.
Nice thing about this is the ski's don't have to come off, and if you want more steering, pull the screws and you are back to stock, (you can do this on the trail).
You will now notice on the garage floor, the front of the carbide will be off the ground maybe 1/4" or so.
Rules to remember:
Moving the ski forward, the carbide forward, or the front of the ski/carbide down, makes it steer easier, but dart more.
Moving the ski backwards, the carbide backwards, or the front of the ski/carbide up, makes it steer harder, and dart less.
Anyone who has snow/water skied will know this sensation. This is also why when you slow quickly, weight transfers, and some sleds get twitchey and darty.
Markusvt.
MXD said:
How about some pictures?
All you have to do is take the rubber off the ski and either cut down the front of the rubber or put it on a belt sander. Take off about a quarter inch. Easy, factory, and DONE!
markusvt
Veteran
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2005
- Messages
- 38
Takes a lot longer and not reversable.
Markus.
Markus.
drifter said:
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