yamamarc
TY 4 Stroke God
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So I spent hours today cleaning my 14 viper then started her up and ran it for about 5 minutes on the stand. I shut it down then noticed a puddle of antifreeze on the ground! I started looking for the leak and noticed it was coming from one of the connections from the heat exchanger(I hope can't see) It's behind the secondary clutch I see the bottom hose connection but can't see the upper one and pretty sure that's where the leak is coming from. Is there a easy way to get at it without ripping it all apart?
thanks for your help guys
Marc
thanks for your help guys
Marc
SnoNinja
aka "Plan B"
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If it's the top hose, you'll have to pull the seat, tank, and heat shield to get to it. I had to tighten that one on my 15 as it started weeping at about 200 miles. I think once the hose go through some real heat cycles, they soften and loosen up. I tightened all of them at least one turn on the clamp bolt.So I spent hours today cleaning my 14 viper then started her up and ran it for about 5 minutes on the stand. I shut it down then noticed a puddle of antifreeze on the ground! I started looking for the leak and noticed it was coming from one of the connections from the heat exchanger(I hope can't see) It's behind the secondary clutch I see the bottom hose connection but can't see the upper one and pretty sure that's where the leak is coming from. Is there a easy way to get at it without ripping it all apart?
thanks for your help guys
Marc
Mine went through two tightening episodes first year. Last year none and no leaks! So keeping fingers crossed they are done.
yamamarc
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that's what I was hoping to avoid!!!If it's the top hose, you'll have to pull the seat, tank, and heat shield to get to it. I had to tighten that one on my 15 as it started weeping at about 200 miles. I think once the hose go through some real heat cycles, they soften and loosen up. I tightened all of them at least one turn on the clamp bolt.
Well a small issue just turned into a 6 pack jobyamamarc
TY 4 Stroke God
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does the tank have to be emptied or just lifted a bit with fuel lines still attached??
SnoNinja
aka "Plan B"
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2006 Dodge Charger RT - Top Banana Daytona
Mine was half full. I disconnected the supply line at the quick connect under the shroud (over the chain case) Cant remember, but I think I left the vent line attached to the tank. Took the whole thing off and set it on the floor.does the tank have to be emptied or just lifted a bit with fuel lines still attached??
Still, a lot of things to disassemble just to tighten a stupid lose hose clamp

yamamarc
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snoninja thanks for you help it very appreciated!!!Mine was half full. I disconnected the supply line at the quick connect under the shroud (over the chain case) and left the vent line attached to the tank. Took the whole thing off and set it on the floor.
when disconnecting the supply line (quick connect) will that fuel stay in the tank? Sorry I'm not in front of the machine right now just trying to cover all steps when I do it
SnoNinja
aka "Plan B"
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2013 Can-Am Maverick 1000XRS
2006 Dodge Charger RT - Top Banana Daytona
I recall a bit spilling when I disconnected the connection, but I put a rag under the connection to catch it before I took it apart. It wasn't a lot. Since the fuel pump isn't running, the only pressure in the line is residual. Once the pressure is relieved, you won't lose any more. Just be careful and use common sense working with the fuel system.snoninja thanks for you help it very appreciated!!!when disconnecting the supply line (quick connect) will that fuel stay in the tank? Sorry I'm not in front of the machine right now just trying to cover all steps when I do it
Much better system than the old days when you had to stick a 5/16" bolt in all the fuel lines to take the tank off.
yamamarc
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perfect thanks againI recall a bit spilling when I disconnected the connection, but I put a rag under the connection to catch it before I took it apart. It wasn't a lot. Since the fuel pump isn't running, the only pressure in the line is residual. Once the pressure is relieved, you won't lose any more. Just be careful and use common sense working with the fuel system.
Much better system than the old days when you had to stick a 5/16" bolt in all the fuel lines to take the tank off.

It was more common for the small bleeder hose on top of exchanger to leak. Just saying to make sure it's not that one. It is possible to get that one through filter access cover. But best is to do it same as the big hose anyway.
yamamarc
TY 4 Stroke God
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What filter access cover are to talking about Cannondale??It was more common for the small bleeder hose on top of exchanger to leak. Just saying to make sure it's not that one. It is possible to get that one through filter access cover. But best is to do it same as the big hose anyway.
The little plate you remove to change oil filter.
yamamarc
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sWhat filter access cover are to talking about Cannondale??
the leak was coming down from the top of the heat exchanger above /behind the secondary clutch the wet spot was running down the aluminum plate separating the motor and the track.The little plate you remove to change oil filter.
yamamarc
TY 4 Stroke God
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Can I access the top of that heat exchanger from down there
Could be either. Probably best to just do like SnoNinja says and pull tank and shield. That way you get a clear look at both.
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