jack shaft ?

[zross1]

So I realized that I had some play in my jack shaft. Pulled off the secondary and found this (see pic). My question is, the collar and nut are completely free, I can move them back and forth up and down the shaft. But the nut is really on the collar good and I don't know if I can get it off without removing the shaft. The bearing is actually ok, it's just the colar and nut have came out of the bearing. Normally I would just follow lakecr's version on how to replace this bearing, but to get to the chain case I have a Boondocker turbo which won't allow me to get the top break roater bolt out. So in order to do it I have to remove the manifold which I also have to remove the seat, gas tank, turbo, and finally the stearing linkage. PITA. So I'm seeing if you have any ideas before I ruin a whole day with that.
I don't know exactly how it works but is the collar suppose to go into the bearing, and when tighting the nut on the bearing is it suppose to snug up against the bearing surface as the nut gets tighter?
Also, the collar looks a little scared, is this normal, or should it be really smooth.

 

[tko47]

that is a tapered bearing and collar, I made a tool to tighten that nut however I use it with the tool I made to hold the shaft which fits over the shaft on the chaincase side actually I use it with the brake rotor, so you'll have to hold it on the clutch side,find something that match the splines cause you dont want hold it sticking a screwdriver in the secondary. Its hard to tighten that nut the tool I made rests on the bulkhead and tighten it by turning the shaft, I'd be happy to send you the tool

 

[tko47]

your picture didn't come up the first go around, now that I look at it I think you need to take it apart...........

 

[zross1]

That's what I was scared of. So what is the nut on? Is that the collar? Any advice of making a tool like you mentioned?

 

[zross1]

Also,
I don't know if anyone can tell by the pic but the collar it's self, should it be smooth like the bearing surface, because mine is a little rough.

And is the collar suppose to tighten against the bearing as you tighten the nut? Or loosen as you loosen the nut?

 

[zross1]

Can I pop the bearing out without removing the shaft?

 

[tko47]

the bearing is tapered to fit the collar and it will come out the secondary side,take off the snap ring the nut on the inside pound out the collar and bearing from the inside its hard cause there isnt much room, its easier if you have the chaincase apart and the top sprocket off then just pound on the shaft driving it to the left. the picture is the tools i made to tighten it once you get the bearing back in.

 

[zross1]

Thanks. Your pic didn't come up though.

 

[zross1]

Now I got the pic.

 

[rxrider]

Apply some heat to the cast aluminium to expand the bearing cup in the cast alu, this will make it alot easier to pop the bearing out.

 

[Apex Man]

jack shaft

I just got through doing just that. You have been PM'd. Looks like you need a new split bushing and maybe a new shaft if it got worn from the bushing spinning on the shaft. I had the same thing but my bushing did not pull completely through like yours did. The split bushing acts like a ferrell (in tubing fittings). The idea of the bushing is to lock the bearing to the shaft using a compression fit. Bad design in my opinion at least in this case. I guess this does allow for some tolerances though and can be adjusted by the number of washers behind the secondary. Your bushing should have never pulled through the bearing, it must be shot. It should protrude slightly just behind the secondary sheave when it is fully tightened by the bearing nut. You will see the washer with a recess in it for this purpose. The inner race of this bearing is tapered and the bushing (collar) "wedges" into it.

 

[givemeaboost]

Did you replace the bearing once before? The bearing is supposed to have a tapered bore and the tapered collar should onlly be able to go part way through it. I wonder if if this had a standard flat bore bearing in it instead, Ken.

 

[zross1]

Apply some heat to the cast aluminium to expand the bearing cup in the cast alu, this will make it alot easier to pop the bearing out.

Thanks.

 

[zross1]

Re: jack shaft

I just got through doing just that. You have been PM'd. Looks like you need a new split bushing and maybe a new shaft if it got worn from the bushing spinning on the shaft. I had the same thing but my bushing did not pull completely through like yours did. The split bushing acts like a ferrell (in tubing fittings). The idea of the bushing is to lock the bearing to the shaft using a compression fit. Bad design in my opinion at least in this case. I guess this does allow for some tolerances though and can be adjusted by the number of washers behind the secondary. Your bushing should have never pulled through the bearing, it must be shot. It should protrude slightly just behind the secondary sheave when it is fully tightened by the bearing nut. You will see the washer with a recess in it for this purpose. The inner race of this bearing is tapered and the bushing (collar) "wedges" into it.

Thanks for the info, I'll check the pm.

 

[zross1]

Did you replace the bearing once before? The bearing is supposed to have a tapered bore and the tapered collar should onlly be able to go part way through it. I wonder if if this had a standard flat bore bearing in it instead, Ken.

I never replaced the bearing, but the guy who had the sled before me might have.

Does anyone have the part number of the collar and nut? I heard the 04 and up are updated?