Keep breaking headers

mdkuni

TY 4 Stroke Guru
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I have now broken three headers. First one broke with 2,500 miles on it. Second broke with 4,700, and the third with 3,400. They all crack right at the weld and if not caught soon enough they break off completely. The last two that broke, I noticed a dent on the top side of the pipe. I wonder if ice is helping break these? I did install Schmidt Bro's block off plate this year. Should I remove the tunnel protectors since I do not run studs and never will?
 

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My exhaust has cracked twice in the other side of the 3 into 1 center piece. All my flexpipes have broken too, but I guessed they were wore out with 6000 hard miles on them. it is frustrating. When you put it together I wonder if there is a proper sequence to tighten all the pieces? I slide it all together, then tighten the rear muffler support, then the front muffler support, then the 3 clamps, then the single pipe and finally the header bolts. I jiggle everything while I am tightening it all. Maybe there is an expert who has an official opinion. on the proper procedure for this? or maybe it doesnt matter at all.
 
You should start at the flex pipes if you take them off then do the three clamps then the header pipe mount then the muffler clamp then the muffler mount !
Mine always broke the header mount not sure why , only did it twice .
 
Much of the cracking and breaking problems are sure to the alloy used in the headers, and the related metal fatigue from the welding process. It's a titanium alloy and a very thin gauge at that which is similar to the sport bike construction, but the snow and ice the pipes are constantly subjected to creates a "perfect storm" of hot/cold that simply makes the metal brittle around the welds. The more aggressively you ride, the more minute flexing your sled endures, the more it's going to crack. Nature of the beast.
Although it's not the perfect method of welding, I've had a couple friends that have cracked their headers, in which I've taken a few inches of the pipe out and TIG welded a flex coupler into the area right behind the collector. It might not last forever, but it's a much cheaper fix with little lose, and so far I haven't heard that either of them have broken.. Just an idea if anyone wanted to go that route.
 


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