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key switched electrical spot

stomper

TY 4 Stroke Master
Joined
Nov 24, 2010
Messages
1,240
Location
Saskatchewan, Canada
I am installing a heated seat pad on my wifes 07 attack. I want to set it up so that it only works when the key is switched on or the sled is running so that if the switch is left on it won't kill the battery. Is there spot in the electrical wiring that is set up for hooking up auxilary stuff like this.
 

What heating pad is it? Do you know how much current (amps) or watts it is?

Might be able to tie it in with the headlight, or you may need to run a seperate relay and fuse, that could be triggered with the headlight.
 
I'm a big fan of using a relay with power directly from the battery (and not overload the factory wiring). Use the headlight power to switch the relay. Here is how to wire the relay:

I have all my accessories (GPS, heated shield, water temp gauge) running off the relay power. I have mine switched with the 12 volt accessory wire. It turns on automatically when the machine is running and it turns off when the machine is turned off.
 

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The headlight is the "switch" the activates the relay. When 86 is powered is closes the relay and power is sent to 87 (from 30) . When power is tuned off, the relay opens the connection (between 30 and 87) and power is lost to 87.

For a better explanation:
http://www.mp3car.com/the-faq-emporium/ ... it-up.html
 
Cubby said:
I have all my accessories (GPS, heated shield, water temp gauge) running off the relay power.

Do you run all your accessories through one relay, or separate relays for each accessory?
 
stomper said:
It's a 20 watt heater. So all it's going to use is 2amps.

You're closer to 1.5 amps here with the alternator running.

While there is no doubt that a seperate circuit with it's own relay and fuse is the most "professional" setup, if no one was looking I could easily be tempted to take the quick way out and piggy back off my headlight for less than two amps.... :)
 
Great info CUBBY!

Never really understood the concept, but this makes it very easy to understand.
 
When i installed mine i wondered the same thing.
since I dont use the auxilary outlet on the sled i decided to purchase a spare connector and hook it up to my seat wiring. Its now plug and play with the original wiring harness. If i decide i dont like it. I can simply unplug it and plug the auxillary outlet back in
 
I gottcha now, and it makes perfect sense. The headlight just powers the relay to close the switch in the relay, but the seat heater will be getting the power from the battery. Correct. Where/how did you tie into your headlight wire.
With all your accessories installed on one relay do you take the power wire from the relay to a fuse block and then from the fuse block to the switched accessory.
 
You can tire into the headlight anywhere you can access the wire. Not sure of the wire colour you need. Don't use a vampire tap - instead solder it to the wire like the picture below. Much better and secure connection.

For the relay -12 volt power from the battery put an inline fuse as close to the battery as possible then connect it to 30.

For us Canucks - you can buy the 30 amp relay and wiring harness at Princess Auto for around $6 (you can get them for $3 when they go on sale). I have used them for many years without an issue.
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Swit ... /8080376.p

I have attached a pic of my wiring on my Phazer.
 

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I use the "vampire" taps, called Scotch Blocks, all the time. I would agree that they are not as good of a connection but if you use the right size and put a dab of di-electric grease in there with electrical tape you will have no issues. they are much easier to work with.
 
NO2 said:
I use the "vampire" taps, called Scotch Blocks, all the time. I would agree that they are not as good of a connection but if you use the right size and put a dab of di-electric grease in there with electrical tape you will have no issues. they are much easier to work with.

Obviously personal opinion, but I've worked as a professional car audio installer for quite a few years. I can't count the number of vehicles I had to go in and fix after a do-it-yourselfer used those in a car. They all suck... I would absolutely never trust them in an environment that is subject to near mil-spec requirements, like in a sled. (massive temperature swings, humidity, extreme vibration, extreme cold, etc...)

If you are cutting factory wiring, good crimps or solder w/heat shrink only.
 


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