Leaky hose clamps is one key complaint on the first year Yamacat Viper.
Many blame QC at assembly which may be partly to blame. Rather than place blame, lets look at how we can fix this ourselves permanently:
Hose clamps do not typically "back off" and leak. What typically happens is the hose beneath them compresses so they need to be tightened. This is why use of a thread locker may not be a good choice.
Compression of the hose along with ease of installation is why many late model automotive applications use simple spring type clamps. A Duramax diesel for example uses spring clamps for every connection except for where the lower radiator hose attaches to the water pump. This may be an access type issue.
When I have an application that I need sealed tight I use constant TQ type clamps. They are big and relatively heavy, BUT they use a solid band (no slots to damage hose and slides around for even TQ) and belleville washers to maintain a constant TQ.
http://idealtridon.com/aftermarket/flex-gear/
Less bulk:
http://idealtridon.com/aftermarket/smartseal/
Many blame QC at assembly which may be partly to blame. Rather than place blame, lets look at how we can fix this ourselves permanently:
Hose clamps do not typically "back off" and leak. What typically happens is the hose beneath them compresses so they need to be tightened. This is why use of a thread locker may not be a good choice.
Compression of the hose along with ease of installation is why many late model automotive applications use simple spring type clamps. A Duramax diesel for example uses spring clamps for every connection except for where the lower radiator hose attaches to the water pump. This may be an access type issue.
When I have an application that I need sealed tight I use constant TQ type clamps. They are big and relatively heavy, BUT they use a solid band (no slots to damage hose and slides around for even TQ) and belleville washers to maintain a constant TQ.
http://idealtridon.com/aftermarket/flex-gear/
Less bulk:
http://idealtridon.com/aftermarket/smartseal/
yamadoo
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That is a great explanation of what I thought was a cheap out.
thanks
Yamadoo
thanks
Yamadoo
Good candidate for a sticky?
My Deere garden tractors and compact utility (all Yanmar diesels) all start to seep in winter when cold started outside. I need to get these clamps changed rather than tightening after seeing the signs.
My Deere garden tractors and compact utility (all Yanmar diesels) all start to seep in winter when cold started outside. I need to get these clamps changed rather than tightening after seeing the signs.
stingray719
TY 4 Stroke God
TD Max said:Good candidate for a sticky?
My Deere garden tractors and compact utility (all Yanmar diesels) all start to seep in winter when cold started outside. I need to get these clamps changed rather than tightening after seeing the signs.
Yep, new hoses need to be retightened after a few heat cycles.
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After 2,XXX miles, I re-tightened and put some red loctite (just an incy little bit) on the screw clamp part and just looked at them yesterday, they are holdng 
But I agree, you need some heat cycles to get the hoses to conform.
But I agree, you need some heat cycles to get the hoses to conform.
With Loctite it is impossible to confirm if they are tight. I don't think they back off, it's more a matter of compression underneath.
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Actually, the loctite made it not move, but also created a buildup that makes it a little harder to to turn....which would make it harder to loosen. Still can adjust when needed.
That is one thing I did not do was mark the clamp to see if it was loosening on its own
That is one thing I did not do was mark the clamp to see if it was loosening on its own
Good point, however, some of these clamps were without a doubt too loose from the factory
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AMEN!!!! drumz11
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