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Sidewinder helix options, product update

I'd start with a straight 35 .Works well on my 137 at 270 hp .Your added hp and track length will be the difference .Make it eat on the bottom end and rev up top .
what weight you got in ?
 

ok that why. i tried them and didn’t like them to hard on the rollers they work better with shallow helix as well.
so would they work better with 41/35 D or 41/36
 
so would they work better with 41/35 D or 41/36
i tried 35 and 39 straight and it was better with the 35 but in 1000 km cost me 2 set of rollers. with my supertips weight no problem so i came back to supertips x series didn’t try 41/35 so don’t know
 
I have friends with all kinds of drive clutch weights, super tips, dalton or heavy hitters, you put a big tune in them, run them at the proper RPM, and they all eat primary rollers for breakfast. That’s if you use that power, if your not heavy in the throttle they’ll last longer. Same with belts.

It will also eat the aftermarket clutch and rattle it to death too, it rattles the billet clutch so bad, it will set off the det protection.
 
I have friends with all kinds of drive clutch weights, super tips, dalton or heavy hitters, you put a big tune in them, run them at the proper RPM, and they all eat primary rollers for breakfast. That’s if you use that power, if your not heavy in the throttle they’ll last longer. Same with belts.

It will also eat the aftermarket clutch and rattle it to death too, it rattles the billet clutch so bad, it will set off the det protection.
So what have changed with these primary rollers? I have run Heavy hitters on my Nytro with 390 hp for years,and the rollers holds up. Why do they break on the Sidewinders?
 
So what have changed with these primary rollers? I have run Heavy hitters on my Nytro with 390 hp for years,and the rollers holds up. Why do they break on the Sidewinders?
me i got 700 km with stock weight,1000 km with dalton and 8000 km with my supertips x series. maybe the more aggressive profile is better?? don’t know but work for me at 285 hp
 
So what have changed with these primary rollers? I have run Heavy hitters on my Nytro with 390 hp for years,and the rollers holds up. Why do they break on the Sidewinders?


Well the clutch design changed a bunch. I know the roller pins no longer have set screws in to hold the pin, and they rattle like mad. I can't say for sure, but Yamaha may have let some stuff get built in China.

I also wonder when the belt lets go, that the bushing breaks/cracks or starts to break apart inside the roller itself. All of us that have broken belts have had premature roller bushing failure, so its hard to determine where the root cause lies yet.
 
I wonder if using apex primary would alleviate premature roller wear??

Only down side is no overdrive on apex primary like winder primary.

Any thoughts?
 
I'm using the 14.5 mm rollers vers the stk 14mm rollers with no issues .
 
Helix this is great info and as I’ve helped play with clutching I’ve never taken the time to really understand it totally myself yet. So now as I’m researching so I can play this winter and have bought d&d’s kit (utilizes alot of your parts i believe) to start I noticed several things along lines of what you mentioned and my father who is decent at clutching asked me about it and I had no answer lol.

His main curiosity was when the tang location on the secondary spring went from 180* appart to on the same side of the spring how does that effect the wrap system Yamaha uses. Obviously I went from 3/3 to 1/0 but wouldn’t the tang location actually add more wrap compared to stock spring, basically what degree wrap am I starting at with that tang pattern.
 
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