Sidewinder helix options, product update

[WinterWolf]

Great post dale. We are having great luck testing your gear. Keep it up.

Joe how’s the black/Orange 6-1 setting with the 33/35 Helix been performing for you...still running good and strong, with more top end.

 

[Joe ltx-le]

Joe how’s the black/Orange 6-1 setting with the 33/35 Helix been performing for you...still running good and strong, with more top end.

Yes, im really happy with it, but remember like dale said every setup needs find fine tuning.

I have stock weights 33/35 helix black orange secondary spring and black bronze primary spring.

 

[chaleurphantom]

Yes, im really happy with it, but remember like dale said every setup needs find fine tuning.

I have stock weights 33/35 helix black orange secondary spring and black bronze primary spring.

Joe, how are your clutch temperatures? Which belt are you using? What RPM's are you seeing?

I have the black orange spring and 33/37 helix coming. Aiming at lowering temperatures and increasing clutching efficiency. For me clutch's are all about transferring power from the engine to the track. Hot clutch's, heat loss = power loss.

 

[WinterWolf]

Yes, im really happy with it, but remember like dale said every setup needs find fine tuning.

I have stock weights 33/35 helix black orange secondary spring and black bronze primary spring.

Oh I understand.

I too have stock weights, and I have stock primary spring. My feeling is being I have the stock set up in the Primary(and Primary is what mostly controls top end RPM), shouldn't that be set up from the factory to get the sled close to 8800 RPM which is target top end R's for stock sidewinder. I'm not far away now at 8550-8600 R's on the top. A little more break in(417 miles on it now) and changing the secondary spring(Dalton black/orange as you have, with the same 33/35 Dalton Helix) from 3-3 to 6-1 like we talked about, might get me where I want to be for a stock sidewinder which is around 8800 RPM at full shift.

 

[WinterWolf]

Yes, im really happy with it, but remember like dale said every setup needs find fine tuning.

I have stock weights 33/35 helix black orange secondary spring and black bronze primary spring.

Joe, before you made the switch to 6-1, you said you were around 8300 RPM at top end. Now that you made the switch, and gained some top end RPM, where are your R's now(if you happened to take notice)?? I apologize if I already asked this, but I don't remember if you posted that info or not??

 

[Joe ltx-le]

I never took notice of revs ( this weekend ill look) I noticed the speed was higher for sure.

 

[Joe ltx-le]

Joe, how are your clutch temperatures? Which belt are you using? What RPM's are you seeing?

I have the black orange spring and 33/37 helix coming. Aiming at lowering temperatures and increasing clutching efficiency. For me clutch's are all about transferring power from the engine to the track. Hot clutch's, heat loss = power loss.

3-3 less heat, 6-1 more heat but I got more top end. both clutch faces look nice a clean on both settings. my revs are low , somewhere areound 88 and then fall off. im real happy with my sled this year and im going to be saving my money for the trail. this Dalton setup is working well

 

[DennyTuna]

Yes, im really happy with it, but remember like dale said every setup needs find fine tuning.

I have stock weights 33/35 helix black orange secondary spring and black bronze primary spring.

I'm running the same springs with a stock helix and secondary spring set 60* (3-3). My top rpm has been 9000 with shift out occurring @ 8900. I have put on 900 miles with this set up so far and the clutches are running cool to warm using a 8jp belt. Not running any tunes just a stocker. Going to measure belt wear and off set this weekend but believe all will be good. Also using a BOP belt adjuster.

 

[Joe ltx-le]

I'm running the same springs with a stock helix and secondary spring set 60* (3-3). My top rpm has been 9000 with shift out occurring @ 8900. I have put on 900 miles with this set up so far and the clutches are running cool to warm using a 8jp belt. Not running any tunes just a stocker. Going to measure belt wear and off set this weekend but believe all will be good. Also using a BOP belt adjuster.

Sounds like your setup is right on. Great!

 

[@123]

yes, it is a note that some do no consider for sure.
A heavy hitter or early stm ( I think) are more aggressive curve and run less weight, stock type curve is very flat and runs heavier weight. It all has effect on which helix may work best with that ( and all the rest of components considered as well). I personally have never had much use for stock Yamaha curvature...going way back to my RX-1, ...but lots will probably argue, and thats ok. Not everyone clutches the same. One thing is for sure, if using stock curvature nothing else is really relative...it acts different.

Dalton quick adjust weights are in between there..sort of...between the real aggressive and the stock curvature.

Flyweight curves and clutching theories are sometimes turned into debates like motor oil..I'm not here to do that. I'm just offering some suggestions of different variables to consider when choosing components to tune with. I'm sure there are lots of ways to tune this sled in its various forms.

just one question dave i have a set of old stm weight to try next season

yes, it is a note that some do no consider for sure.
A heavy hitter or early stm ( I think) are more aggressive curve and run less weight, stock type curve is very flat and runs heavier weight. It all has effect on which helix may work best with that ( and all the rest of components considered as well). I personally have never had much use for stock Yamaha curvature...going way back to my RX-1, ...but lots will probably argue, and thats ok. Not everyone clutches the same. One thing is for sure, if using stock curvature nothing else is really relative...it acts different.

Dalton quick adjust weights are in between there..sort of...between the real aggressive and the stock curvature.

Flyweight curves and clutching theories are sometimes turned into debates like motor oil..I'm not here to do that. I'm just offering some suggestions of different variables to consider when choosing components to tune with. I'm sure there are lots of ways to tune this sled in its various forms.

question dave so if i understand correctly more curvature weight like stm xseries will need more agressive helix or less agressive helix? thks ... ps i have a 153” track

 

[krm]

I've always found that long track sleds seem to like a straight angle helix better .Get the thing running correct on the trail with a multi angle helix ,then get in some deep ,you'll under rev .

 

[@123]

I've always found that long track sleds seem to like a straight angle helix better .Get the thing running correct on the trail with a multi angle helix ,then get in some deep ,you'll under rev .

ok thks but does steeper helix better with agressive weight profile?

 

[krm]

ok thks but does steeper helix better with agressive weight profile?

tune or no tune ?

 

[@123]

tune or no tune ?

tune 285 hp

 

[krm]

tune 285 hp

I'd start with a straight 35 .Works well on my 137 at 270 hp .Your added hp and track length will be the difference .Make it eat on the bottom end and rev up top .