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Left on the trail....

It might just be me, but I didn't think Yamaha studded tracks from the factory!!!!! Maybe the Yammi didn't leave you stranded. maybe it was the picks that were just too long!!!!!Long live the Blue :yam: :4STroke:
 

this is why I ALWAYS install the shortest studs possible,less weight,less breakage,less problems!...

the ripsaw is a peice of junk!...too soft,tearouts are all too common.

I installed a 1 inch predator the day I brought sled home...sold the ripjunk.

added 1.175 woodys Gold diggers,i would not use ANY OTHER STUD.....

then...i ALWAYS drill holes in track with a 7mm stud drill,then install the 5/16" studs...this is a pain in the #*$&@ but i can tell you,they will NEVER tear out.....the smaller 7mm hole makes it near impossible for a stud to ever pull out....and with a predator hard rubber,tearout is tough.

Ive done this now for last 5 sleds ive owned(ever since stud drills got popular).....and never had a tearout or a bent stud.

I would never use a deeper lug track then 1 inch or longer stud then 1.175.....anything more you ask for trouble IMO.

Dan
 
I threw 2 studs through my vector cooler. I got it welded and it held up fine. I no longer run studs.
 
I have had a couple studs go into my snow flap!! Does that count?!! I am happy that they didn't go into the heat exchanger. AND, the studs that came out simply lost their nuts. Strange how they can get out from the wrong side?
 
I am a happy camper after having my track rip off of my attack .....a peice of the track folded over and jammed against the rad protecters..running with double backers......cut the extra peices off and rode it out 18 miles doing only 15mhr...
 
ROCKERDAN said:
added 1.175 woodys Gold diggers,i would not use ANY OTHER STUD.....

I put well over 10,000 miles on 1.325" and 1.075" Gold Diggers and also never saw a single tear out or broken stud.

I read a thread somewhere here where everyone was claiming Roetin Hornets were by far the best stud out there, so this time I went with 144 1.075" Hornets in my pre-punched 9837H144 (1" Predator).

When I went to install the studs, I have to say I didn't feel as comfortable with them. The head is about 1/16" smaller and the head thicker at the center rather than around the perimeter like with the Gold Diggers. Basically the Gold Diggers clamp around the perimeter of the stud head, while the Predator clamps tight everywhere, including very hard right at the hole (where the track would be the weakest). On top of that, the 1.075" Hornets are at least 0.150" - 0.200" taller than the 1.075" Gold Diggers, both pre-installation and post. They do hook up incredibly well though - better than the shorter Gold Diggers.

I really hope I don't end up with any tear throughs, but I'm definitely going to go back to Gold Diggers with my next track. My #1 goal is durability so I'll run 1.075" Gold Diggers in a 1" track next time again.

For those of you experiencing stud tear throughs, which studs were you running?
 
Yes the front heat exchanger can be welded while it is in the sled.
Make sure you get the part good and clean. Brake cleen works well. I was also advised to heat the are I was going to weld first, so I did.
Yes I welded it my self. I am not a weld by any means. I kinda suck at it!!! The mig welder we have here at work is VERY nice and has a spool gun for Alum.
I ran my SRX for 2 years w/ this repair and no problems. No leaks!!!

Yes a Tig would have done a nicer job but I do not have one. Was not the best looking but as I said I ran the sled for 2 years w/ the repair.

Frogg
 
I broke a lot of studs with the Signature serie. The Gold digger are a notch above.

I also have 1" track and I will never goback with the ripsaw. Ripsaw is not made for long high speed run.

Yummy
 
I run 1.325 woody's and have for the past 5 years. This never happenned, bent a few, but never ripped out of the track.
 
RTXs said:
Yeah I was rippin across a lake last week and a stud put hole straight through both sides of the front heat exchanger. Im gonna replace it this week if my REALLY GOOD FRIEND helps me (Wayne u reading this?) Anyone know what kind of riveter is needed to replace the rivets?? they look pretty heavy duty.

Yep,

Just buy or borrow a big rivet tool unless you are installing aluminum rivets. I think some of them are supposed to be stainless steel but I'm not sure. See if you can borrow one or borrow an "air" rivet gun. I have a compressor at my shop.

P.S. I'm putting my motor back together tomorow and should have it running by late afternoon.

You bringing your sled over on Thursday?



....
 
I jb welded mine and have a few thousand on it with no issues.
 
Jb welded my cousins exchanger cause he didn't have the cash ti fix it. Now it's 3 years later and doing fine. lucky I guess.

I've got 16 studs pulled thru my ripsaw and a 3" rip in it and still going strong. LOL Every time I rock I wait for the track to hit me in the back of the head. hahaha New track here any day now, hurry up U>P>S> LOL
 
I've heard good things about JB weld. Anyways I had 144 gold diggers but they snapped like toothpicks. Must be the conditions cause people I ride with snap em off left and right also. I've been replacing the broken studs with more woodys but with stud boy tower nuts, no more bent studs but a few have torn out. Hey RTX Dude...16 tear outs, sweet!! my tracks only half used up then!
 
RTXs said:
I've heard good things about JB weld. Anyways I had 144 gold diggers but they snapped like toothpicks. Must be the conditions cause people I ride with snap em off left and right also. I've been replacing the broken studs with more woodys but with stud boy tower nuts, no more bent studs but a few have torn out. Hey RTX Dude...16 tear outs, sweet!! my tracks only half used up then!

You can always tell when your track is shot, it slaps you in the back of the helmet. LOL ;)!
 


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