Let The #*$&@ Kickin Begin!

[ExTrEeMF7]

nobody gives a warranty with any mod parts , bender, hauck , maxxperf, boondocker, holtz, ect ect .once you buy after market you dont get warranty , also your warranty on your rx1 will be gone also ....

and no, i told you what my kit was ,its a boondocker kit that can be used for twin , triple . and 4 , you can plumb it to air filters and to air box ether way

as for the kit you posted, that is a new kit for them this year mine is almost the same i just dont got the fancy blocks, i have brass blocks like they used for years. :wink:
thats about it,
i also have black lines not clear .

i was just trying to save you some cash .. if i dont sell it i will put in somthing ... :roll:

i tought i would save you 500$ + taxes .. thats alot of NOS you can buy...

dam i should raise my price , what you think NOS-PRO
:wink:

 

[ExTrEeMF7]

here go read this

http://www.totallyamaha.net/vbul2php3/v ... #post51020

 

[treewhacker]

SRX
You said they're getting more power by using the stock airbox? Do you still have it? I am very interested.

 

[NOS-PRO]

Hey Marc - I think that is a fair price, I mean they do cost alot, and any time I could save a buck, I will do it. I am using old equipment also, but works well. The only things that have changed are some of the fogger nozzles, and bottle valves.

Hey Spray - I ran nitrous on bone stock motors, all the way up to fully modified engines. As long as you don't go overboard, and follow the warnings that come with the kit, you shouldn't have any problems. Example - I raced my quad for 7 years with a bone stock Arctic Cat 700 twin with 75 hpr. shot of nitrous. It was never touched all that time, and is still being raced with the same motor. Timing was never touched, and raced it on ice, dirt and asphalt the whole time I had it. 4 strokes would be even better due to not having to mix oil with the gas. Up to 50 hpr. shot, no timing changes, and no jetting changes. I will be sending a video to RX Warrior to show the increase in rpm's, and change in sound. Should be a week or so. You can here where my progressive unit kicks in. I attached a photo of my pro street truck that has a 2 stage 500 hpr. system, on a 600 hpr. Big Block. It was taken at a burnout competition.

 

[Swiss Sledder]

There is a good article on the Boondocker system in the September 2003 edition of SnowTech, page 69. The article backs-up NOS-PRO that the product is safe and reliable. The article also states:

Nitrous is used at rate of 1 pound per minute per use. If used sparingly in short bursts (typically 8 seconds or less), a bottle can last all day.

Somehow I don't see you guys in the 8 second crowd. :lol:

 

[spray25]

Nos,

So you have a kit on your warrior? Which one? What is your "progressive unit". I would like to turbo, but just don't have the $$$$. So I am looking at NOS. I just wish it was more of an all the time boost like a turbo.

Do you fill your own bottles? From how big of a base bottle?

 

[NOS-PRO]

Hey Spray - I have all my components from Nitrous Oxide Systems, I have used their products, and always had good luck with them. But Holtzman has a kit that will keep steady pressure, even if the temp of the bottle goes down. VERY COOL!!
A progressive unit is a multifunction timer that controls how much nitrous/fuel goes into the motor, and also is a delay timer for guys who have a problem with traction off of the starting line. Example: I have a 500 horse kit on my truck, and if I would push the throttle down to the floor, activating the nitrous system, I would either blow the tires up in smoke, or worse yet, send the intake sky high. The unit has a dial to delay power going to the solonoids. So I set it at 1.2 seconds delay, and after I hit the activation switch during full throttle, it takes 1.2 seconds for the solonoids to receive the power to open them. Then I have the 2ndstage come on at 3 seconds delay after the 1st stage, so I don't overpower the tires. I can even adjust the horse rating going to the solonoids, like tuning it down to 50%, which would be 250 horse, by turning the dial, from the drivers seat. Also VERY COOL!!
Spray - I fill my 2lb bottles right at the track from a 10 lb bottle like they use in street cars. The laws of physics work well in this area. After using all your nitrous from the 2 lb bottle, when unmount the bottle, open the valve, and empty the rest of the air/nitrous, then have a transfer line to a warm 10lb bottle, and and open both valves. It transfers soo nice. But the receiving bottle must be cool or cold, and the mother bottle, warm. At the races, I can fill a bottle in under 4 min., and I heat water in the microwave, to warm the bottle up for the next run. Whewww!

 

[spray25]

So you are running a wet system then? With the theories of a dry system you wouldn't really need a proggressive unit. At least not on a sled. Obviosly, you coulduse it, but if only adding say 30-50 hp it's probably not needed.

So you like the Holtzman system. What about Boondockers system? They look basically the same, with very "similar" nozzles. Holtzman looks a touch less expensive.

Boondocker has that cool 4 lb carbon bottle........ That would be thirty, 8 second button blasts!!! With Holtzman's 2 lb bottle it's only fifteen 8 second blasts.

MAN, I HATE these decsisions!!!

 

[NOS-PRO]

Hey Spray - I have the wet system, and I am thinking of holtzmans system for next year maybe. I saw boon dockers, and didn't care for the dry system relying on the carbs to provide the fuel. Well, hope we get some people to try it first, I am skeptical about the dry systems. I like 'em wet, like other things. You go dry, I think you will be hurting. especially, in the higher altitudes. I will be talking to Barry this week hopefully, and I will ask about a bigger botllew, and location.

 

[spray25]

So, I have to exercise paitence? I suck at that, but ok FINE!

 

[NOS-PRO]

I hear ya, sorry buddy.

 

[NOS-PRO]

I can finaly say,"LET THE #*$&@ KICKIN BEGIN!"

 

[ExTrEeMF7]

yeah buddy :twisted:

 

[1xr]

Holy #*$&@ 4 foggers.

 

[NOS-PRO]

You Got It 1xr, but they each have 18 nitrous, and 22 fuel jets, which make 12 hpr per cylinder. But after the timig retard, by changing the jets, we can adjust it to any hpr rating we want, within limits of course. It's that easy.