Lower body panel screws?

[Roadrider]

heat exchange , you may have your numbers reversed. The #2 is the larger.

 

[heat exchange]

heat exchange , you may have your numbers reversed. The #2 is the larger.

To me the one on the right is the larger #3

 

[Roadrider]

I guess CRS is setting in worse than I thought. Someway through the years I reversed them in my head. Been 15 years since I walked on the tool truck to buy one.

 

[heat exchange]

No problem This shot shows how bad the screws fit on the #2 on the left side .It is sure to slip.The driver that comes with the sled is a #2 I think. Sorry for the fuzzy shot

 

[Roadrider]

Pretty tough to slip with the right screw driver. And too easy to over tighten into the clip type nuts with a
bolt and ratchet. I have rebuilt a bunch of bigwheels over the years and I always replace a bunch of the screws in those too. Better than breaking a bolt off or
worse yet stripping out the case.

 

[heat exchange]

I have found that a #3 screw driver works the best .One thing that can cause problems is when you put the bottom three screws in is that the taps that they screw into have been bent up from riding and have to be bent down to line up with the holes in the lower side panel.

 

[RED]

Yamaha screws are #3, which are bigger. Wish they wouldnt use philps screws, got to just as bad as torx. Use allen head & be done with it. I have yet to see a yami tool kit have #3 screwdriver in it.

 

[Irv]

Yamaha screws are #3, which are bigger. Wish they wouldnt use philps screws, got to just as bad as torx. Use allen head & be done with it. I have yet to see a yami tool kit have #3 screwdriver in it.

Probably why the newer sleds all have socket heads now as I assume I am not the only one who has had this issue

Philips are the sh*t's, unless it is for something that doesn't require frequent removal.

 

[Irv]

Picked up my new fasteners yesterday, they have the socket heads but are a little shorter?
Will let you know if they work or not later today? (my guess is they will)

 

[thor452]

I put a little dab of antisieze on them when i take them off as the only come out once a year and tend to get a lil tough to get out that has solved all the probs with them as long as you use the #3 bit love the hex head on the new one also some guys have got replacements from fastenal with the hex head for less then yamaha.

 

[Irv]

I put a little dab of antisieze on them when i take them off as the only come out once a year and tend to get a lil tough to get out that has solved all the probs with them as long as you use the #3 bit love the hex head on the new one also some guys have got replacements from fastenal with the hex head for less then yamaha.

Nev R Seize is good stuff but I never put any on these bolts as I didn't think they would get tight enough or seize the way the one did.

I did however put a light coat of spray lube on them (as I do with most fasteners) and thought that would help with disassebly/assembly but I must have tightened it too much, plus with all the belt dust in that area, I guess it practically seized on there?

I did try my new bolts and they work fine, plenty of thread on them

 

[yamahas]

Irv, so the ones off the phazer with that part number I posted works then? This question seems to pop up every so offten so if that part number works I'll try to remember that for next time.

 

[blue er]

just use a #3 phillips, don't use lubes on them anti-seize and spray lubes actually give you a mechanical advantage and most people end up overtightning them and the lube washes out over the winter making it tougher to remove

 

[Irv]

Irv, so the ones off the phazer with that part number I posted works then? This question seems to pop up every so offten so if that part number works I'll try to remember that for next time.

Yeah, they work just fine Yamahas. The part number you gave me is the part number I gave my dealer.
He said if they didn't work (when I ordered them) he would take them back and we would order the proper ones.

I forgot to take an old one with me to compare so I took a chance and took them, and luckily they work fine.

The threaded part is slightly shorter than the old ones but at least 2-3 threads stick through when their installed so they are plenty long enough imo.
Thanks again, I appreciate the help you gave me!


Blue er, I have to disagree. Imo, any nut/bolt or screw that isn't protected in the enviroment we sometimes put our machines through is just asking for trouble.
I would rather take a part a sled that has been lubed or greased than one that hasn't any day of the week

 

[blue er]

Blue er, I have to disagree. Imo, any nut/bolt or screw that isn't protected in the enviroment we sometimes put our machines through is just asking for trouble.
I would rather take a part a sled that has been lubed or greased than one that hasn't any day of the week Head Bang
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well factory components are corrosion resistant through coatings/platings, never had a screw seize on my apex yet proper tools are more important and most of those oils ans antiseizes will be washed out over the course of a winter but they will be overtightened,
put lots of antiseize on exhaust components on this sled still seized up every year don't see any trace of it left just walk on the Snap-on truck and get some good tools the mastercraft #*$&@ just don't cut it