Lower drive and reverse gears have side to side movement (float)

[Firecatdude]

I got a new non current Riot 9000 this past fall after selling my ZR 998 limited. On that sled for the lower drive and reverse gear the retaining clip would just squeeze on and be snug. On my new sled the two gears can actually move side to side a bit and you can easily get the retaining clip on. Is anyone else seeing this? From what I read it is usually the opposite and guys need to rachet strap there tunnel to get the clip on. On the rotor side, the retaining clip is snug but I can rock my rotor a hair amount front and back. I don’t remember what it was like on the rotor side of my last sled. I have the barn of parts shaft saver installed from new which I had in my last sled and I have 1200 miles on the sled.

I know the shaft should be locked in place by the step on the shaft on the chain case side and retaining clip on the rotor side so it shouldn’t have moved towards the chain case. Did I just happen to get a sled with a slightly narrower tunnel than most, and as compared to my last sled? I thought about removing my shaft saver and seeing if the shaft will move towards the rotor side to eliminate the gears from floating.

Is it ok for the two gears to float?

I also noticed the speedo magnets are rubbing on the inside of the case but that’s normal from what I have read. And again I cannot remember if this occurred on my last sled.

Maybe it’s all good and I’m just being paranoid.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Sevey]

I cant speak to a 9000. Over the years I have experienced different instances like you described on my SW.

I would relax the shaft saver and let everything settle and find its place and then reapply only at when everything is back together.

I have purchased special washers from McMaster Car to put on the rotar side of the shaft by the snap ring - which pulls the shaft to that side of the sled and and take up any tolerance. That seemed to help keep things tight. The rotar did not slop back and forth.

Take a look at the inside of your rotar. Often the when the shaft spins it will cut into the inner face of the rotar. That is not good when that happens. And yes - the shaft will still spin with the shaft saver.

Hope that helps
MS

 

[Firecatdude]

Thanks for the reply and tidbits.

I have never heard of the shaft still spinning when a shaft saver was installed on a new shaft.

 

[Turboflash]

They have. And can, IF they weren't torqued high enough. I've seen it.

 

[Sevey]

Thanks for the reply and tidbits.

I have never heard of the shaft still spinning when a shaft saver was installed on a new shaft.

If that is your experience - consider yourself lucky.......

After various attempts I am on my third shaft since 2018. I have just install the Hi Tech Mechanical bearing support from Ron Ward with hopes that is the last time I mess with this.

The new shafts are made out of harder steel and dont expand as easy as the first 4-5 yrs of shafts (approx). Even so, I have had my shaft on the bench with bearing on it and at 55ft lbs I could still get some play on it and wiggle it off - so for sure under operation it would spin.

MS

 

[Turboflash]

Sounds like maybe it would have been better, and saved stress and aggravation if you'd have just had shaft spray welded and ground to enable a pressed on bearing. I'm on 6+ years now with that done w zero issues. Shaft has never slipped in bearing. No "shaft saver" necessary.

 

[Sevey]

Sounds like maybe it would have been better, and saved stress and aggravation if you'd have just had shaft spray welded and ground to enable a pressed on bearing. I'm on 6+ years now with that done w zero issues. Shaft has never slipped in bearing. No "shaft saver" necessary.

Unfortunately i chose to go in different direction at the time that did not pan out.
-Have tried the wedge
-had it spray welded with a pin in the shaft and notched bearing
-BOP bearing with lock screws.....
All that was over a 7 yr span.
MS

 

[Turboflash]

Unfortunately i chose to go in different direction at the time that did not pan out.
-Have tried the wedge
-had it spray welded with a pin in the shaft and notched bearing
-BOP bearing with lock screws.....
All that was over a 7 yr span.
MS

Yup. I realize hindsight is closer to 20/20.
First time my caliper side bearing failed, I decided to do a "permanent" repair. Had shaft spray welded, ground on center to interference fit with new SKF bearing. Done deal. Zero issues since. Still running that same bearing for last 7 years. I do regrease it every year but shaft has never spun in bearing.